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Charcoal Goods Gen 2 - New Head Design

So this might be a little premature but I have to share my experience ...

So Brian at Charcoal Goods has been posting for months about about bringing back Stainless Steel razors in a new design. A razor with a Gen 2 baseplate and a Gen 4 top cap. I already have a Brass Lvl 2 and recently picked up a used SS Lvl 2, and was seriously questioning if I needed another one. However, I immediately ordered a Lvl 2 SS as soon as I was aware that is was available in the "Ready to Ship" section. I am ashamed to say that I had the razor for a full week before finally shaving with it yesterday. I haven't seen much on the razor and truthfully I don't feel like Brian has made a big deal about the redesign. However, after shaving with it yesterday I think Brian is seriously underselling himself. My first shave with it made me think that this razor deserves as much attention as Wolfmen coming out with WR2, although they still offer WR1. The new design at Charcoal Goods is equally an impressive upgrade.

For my first shave Friday I hadn't shaved since Monday, so I had 4 full days of growth. The gear used:

Charcoal Goods Stainless Steel Lvl 2 with 2nd use Kai blade (on a Rocnel Elite handle)
Mozingo Washingtion - Brown wood with Declaration B4
Pannecrema Nuavia Blu
Razorock Alum
Proraso Sensitive Skin balm

So I started my shave by wetting the Pannacrema through blooming. I rubbed my index finger on the wet soap and applied it directly to my face as a preshave. I then splashed some of the bloom water on my face an then loaded the brush with soap. Pannacrema Nuavia is an amazing soap and gives a great experience. I planned to do only two passes.

The first pass WTG (N to S) was great. It was amazingly smooth and surprisingly super efficient. The razor took off almost all growth except in hard to reach corners. Sure some clean up and buffing would be needed everywhere, but the razor removed 90% of all of the 4 days growth. But surprisingly it did all this while feeling much smoother than a typical Lvl 2 razor.

The second pass ATG (Ear to Nose) was also great. Again extremely smooth. It cleared all the remaining hair and would have left a DFS. Perfect!!!

However, my face felt extremely good with almost no irritation. My face almost never feels like this after 2 passes. I have only had this feeling 2 other times on the first shave with a razor. One time I don't remember the razor, but it was a mistake. But the second was the RS-10 with mild baseplate and the razor shockingly gave me the best shave I have ever experienced. I have repeated this many times now. However, the CG SS Lvl 2 gave this feeling and I pushed my luck and went for the third pass on the first shave with the razor.

How'd it go? It went amazingly well. Again extremely smooth and efficient. I did nick myself around the corner of my jaw, but that was completely my fault. I got sloppy and didn't keep my skin as taught as I should have. My third pass technique is not as strong as my first two passes as I almost never go for it. Again, this was no fault of the razor. The final result after clean up, I had minimal sting with the Alum block and had what @Dragonsbeard would classify as Level 2 BBS. If you aren't familiar go read his Shave Offs. An absolutely phenomenal result. I am very glad I decided against the better judgement of my wallet to buy one. Sitting here over 24 hours after the shave, I barely have a 5 o'clock shadow. There is no way I could shave again after 24 hours. I will have to give it more time to decide when I would be comfortable shaving again. Sure if I had to touch up with a single pass or two pass for a work event or something I could, but just for casual use there isn't anything to shave.

Again, yes this is my first shave with the razor but I wanted to get the information out. I will continue to experiment. I plan to do some direct shave off comparisons with my brass and old model SS Lvl 2's. But my first impression is the new design Lvl 2 feels like the aggressiveness of an old Lvl 1.5 while maintaining the efficiency of the old Lvl 2. Again this redesign parallels Wolfmen. And the Lvl 2 feels very different that the RS-10 mild but my experience with the two mirrored each other. The CG Lvl 2 is slightly more aggressive than the RS-10 and had slightly more irritation at the end of the 3 pass shave, but I am equally impressed with the two. To re-emphasize though the two razors feel very different though. I would equate the RS-10 to driving a BMW 7-series and the CG Lvl 2 to driving a Porsche 911. The RS-10 feels very luxurious, while the CG feels very sporty and performance driven. The CG SS Lvl 2 result probably reminds me most of the Paradigm SE after a 2 pass with even less irritation.

I can't praise Brian high enough for changing a razor that has become a classic. But I can tell you he should take an opportunity to give himself more credit for the improvements. I can't wait to get more experience with the razor and I will report back. And I can't wait for Brian to put out more SS handles. I'm not a huge fan of the Torpedo it came with. I have an SS Hammered that I ordered awhile ago, but I find it a little small. I also have a SS Bishop which is nice. I enjoy it. But I really hope he offers a Magnum and Stinger. As I mentioned above I put it on a Rocnel Elite handle because it was beefier and honestly the CG head just looked so good on it. But I may be biased as I find the minimal design of the Rocnel Elite handle gorgeous. I hated the 1.95 Rocnel Elite and the only thing I wanted to keep was the handle, but I didn't and traded the full razor. When Phil at Bullgoose was cleaning up recently and put some of the handles alone up for sale, I had to have one. I also recently added the 2.1 mm Rocnel Elite and it is the exact razor I hoped the original would be. It is amazing.

Please feel free to provide any input and I hope others who have experienced the new design will chime in with their experiences as well.

Thanks.
 
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Thanks for the report, SO. Brian had said the new generation would have only cosmetic differences from the old. Perhaps that's true for him when he shaves with it but anytime one redesigns a head, there are going to be differences. How does the blade feel of the new CGL2 compare to the old?
 
Thanks for the report, SO. Brian had said the new generation would have only cosmetic differences from the old. Perhaps that's true for him when he shaves with it but anytime one redesigns a head, there are going to be differences. How does the blade feel of the new CGL2 compare to the old?

I'll have to head to head to be held to a definite answer, but from memory I would say slightly less blade feel and extremely smooth in comparison. As soon as I can grow some hair and I'm going to do a head to head with the Brass Lvl 2.
 
@Sharp_Obsession excellent review. I feel better now because I ordered the new baseplate and top cap this morning and wasn’t sure if I should since I have a copper Dual Comb Level 2. Now I’m glad I ordered it.
 
Great review! As a matter of fact, so good, I went and bought the same razor with the torpedo handle...damn you RAD.
 
Great report. I have one on the way and now you’ve really whet my appetite. Like many I’m not a fan of the Torpedo handle having previously sampled it in brass. Hopefully a ss handle where Brian can wave his design flair will eventually be available.
 
I plan to do some direct shave off comparisons with my brass and old model SS Lvl 2's. But my first impression is the new design Lvl 2 feels like the aggressiveness of an old Lvl 1.5 while maintaining the efficiency of the old Lvl 2.

OP, that was a great, in-depth review...I already have the Level 2 in bright brass.

It's one of the great modern pieces, for sure. Audio feedback second to none.

I remember reading on his site that the new head design tones down the audio a bit....
perhaps that is what contributes to the feeling of added smoothness? I'll be tuning in to hear
your thoughts on this aspect when you do your Brass vs SS Level2 shoot-out.
 
I’ve got 30+ DE razors and I’ve used Brian’s brass level 2 OC exclusively for close to 2 years now. I thought about trying his new design, but this brass level 2 is perfect for me. Brian’s razors are extremely well designed. He’s also one of the most pleasant people to deal with I’ve ever run across. I needed a stand for my Blackbird and got tired of waiting for Blackbird to make more of theirs. I contacted Brian to ask if he’d mind drilling out one of his a few thousandths for my Blackbird. He drilled one out and had it shipped the following day. It is a perfect fit.

Congrats on your CG new design razor, Sharp_Obsession!
 
Brian’s razors are extremely well designed. He’s also one of the most pleasant people to deal with I’ve ever run across.

I've only exchanged professional emails with him a couple of times...struck me as a very unassuming, courteous and nice person. Thanks to the way marketing works in the digital age, he doesn't have to extoll the virtues of his razors. His customers become brand ambassadors who do it for him. The highest kind of endorsement possible.
 
Alright, I finally had time to get a head-to-head shave in. The first day I could have shaved is Monday, but it was a hectic day and I didn't have time. So I shaved this morning after 3.5 days.

Here is the gear used

SOTD 2019-03-19.jpeg


Charcoal Goods Brass (Gen1/Gen3) Lvl2 with new Kai blade on a Stinger 2 handle
Charcoal Goods SS (Gen2/Gen4) Lvl2 with new Kai blade on a Rocnel Elite handle
Phoenix Artisan Accoutrements Cube Preshave
Simpson M7 Manchurian in Disco Haze
Barrister and Mann Behold the Whatsis and matching aftershave
Razorock Alum block

I did a 2 pass shave with only cleanup under my nose. This is a typical shave for me.

1st Pass (WTG, N-S) - I started with the Brass CG on my right cheek and left neck. The Brass had very loud audible feedback. The Brass was smooth and just a tad sharp. It did a great job of clearing growth and was very efficient. Very impressive after a first pass. The SS was used on my left cheek and right neck. The SS was a little less audible, but still had good feedback. It was very smooth and had similarly efficient. After a first pass, both razors performed great.

2nd Pass (ATG, Ear to Nose) - Again I started with the Brass. There was almost no audible feedback, or very little feedback. However, the razor clearly cleaned up the majority of the remaining growth. It pretty smooth, but aggressive. I started to notice some blade feel and minimal irritation. The SS razor was more audible on second pass. It also did a great job clearing growth. The SS razor felt much more smooth without the extra blade feel and irritation.

Upon cleanup both sides felt similar for clearing the growth and I had a DFS, which is typically my goal. And now 12 hours later, I would say the result of the shave and growth were the same. However, upon using the Alum block and Aftershave the area of the Brass had significant sting. The area with the SS had some sting, but was minimal. I could not have done a third pass with the Brass, but probably could have with the SS. The Pannacrema shave had much better post shave feel and less irritation, but the B&M did very good. Overall, the result of the SS new design is amazing as always with Charcoal Goods. However, the reduction in irritation allows me the choice of a 3rd pass and obtaining a BBS shave.

As always, the YMMV applies. These are my results today with the gear used. I am very happy to have bought the new CG design as it is more versatile in my collection and gives me better options.

I know many of you recently ordered the head. I can't wait to hear others experiences.
 
Very good review Jared and the more I hear about how smooth but still efficient the new Level 2 baseplate is the more I can’t wait till Brian releases the Copper baseplate so I can use it in my Copper Level 3 SB as a milder alternative. Thanks for sharing with us!
:a14:

Thanks Frank. I'm hoping I can get a Lvl3 in the new design. Does anyone know when Brian plans to offer the new baseplate designs in other gap sizes?
 
Excellent comparison, thank you for taking the time.
I did read on his site that he will concentrate on razors
in the gaps that there is most demand for...and then move
to other gaps. I think his Lvl2 is the most popular as of now.

For me personally, his brass razors capture a look and emotion that the steel
doesn't.
 
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