Excellent Read! It's nice getting to know you Chris!
I have a single "sample" slice of the veg 3.0 left, it isn't pretty but it will ensure you get some to use.I would love to try the Veg 3.0, especially tomorrow with this Willie 3017 I seem to find myself in. Great read Chris.
Quick question Chris. Why does the potassium hydroxide make a better shaving soap than the sodium hydroxide? I noticed you had said this a few days back, I think.
... Potassium hydroxide makes a soap that is easier to lather because the potasium salt that is created from the saponification process is more easily dissolved into water, allowing more "soap" into solution more quickly. It turns out (according to what I read and experience) sodium salts seem to make a slicker lather compared to potasium salts. To fine tune a recipe I have learned to use different amounts of each kind of lye AND use them at different times....
Great write-up Chris...and I'll be the first to agree with you about the water-band and tending towards the wetter side of the house for straight shaves. But that wider water band allows for a bit of customization of the lather to how the user prefers it. A nice feature to have!
I am not entirely sure of the supposed reasoning behind it but the consensus is that KOH produces softer soaps than NaOH even when the same fats are used. As per normal, the "consensus" isn't right because WSP and other artisans have found that indeed a very hard soap can be had using only KOH.Thanks for that explanation Chris. Also, the degree of fatty acid saturation, and fatty acid chain length all would likely affect the performance of the soap, would it not?. Tallow being much more saturated than vegetable oil, but various fatty acids of vegetable origin have very long chain length, making these triglycerides solid at room temperature as well (Shea butter and other nut butters). Given all of the variables, how do you know what combination provides for the best shaving soap? Or does it matter?
I guess that is one reason the term artisan applies.
My thoughts exactly. A soap that works well enough while a little on the dryer side but can take a lot more water before breaking down AND has different characteristics at various points is kind of useful.Great write-up Chris...and I'll be the first to agree with you about the water-band and tending towards the wetter side of the house for straight shaves. But that wider water band allows for a bit of customization of the lather to how the user prefers it. A nice feature to have!
I wonder if it has anything to do with the soaps you guys are using not having fully dried between creation and use. I don't recall such a tight water band. I certainly know the actual puck of Williams takes a huge amount of water. You may be right though, taking I a huge amount of water doesn't mean the sweet spot isn't within a few drops.I think the water band for Williams must be + 5 micro liters.
I'm glad you have enjoyed the journey so far, it's nice to have you along.Excellent Read! It's nice getting to know you Chris!
I think yours is also V3.0 too. I hope when your 3017 is done you will enjoy the Veg but i know SO many other soaps are calling too. I've got your name on the list to recieve a slice of the newest pre-shave soap too, I think you might like it too.Good read, shave, and picture Chris! I'm looking forward to using the Veg soap that you sent me and the sample of Tabacaveg too! I've just got this 3017 thingy to finish 1st! Which version did you send me?
.... I've got your name on the list to recieve a slice of the newest pre-shave soap too, I think you might like it too.