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Cast steel razor - what is it?

I have an old Bengall stamped "cast steel", dated from around the mid 1800s- First time I had it on the stones I was amazed how quick I worked through the progression, and how nice of an edge I was able to produce. I can't speak for all blades stamped "cast steel", but if you can find an old Bengall much like mine or @TSENG, you'll have a dang fine shaving razor. Very interesting steel and worth playing with imo.
 
I have an old Bengall stamped "cast steel", dated from around the mid 1800s- First time I had it on the stones I was amazed how quick I worked through the progression, and how nice of an edge I was able to produce. I can't speak for all blades stamped "cast steel", but if you can find an old Bengall much like mine or @TSENG, you'll have a dang fine shaving razor. Very interesting steel and worth playing with imo.
I look forward to using the Bengall cast steel razor, I love the feel of the shave.
20230326-3.jpg
 
Cast Steel is equivalent to Acier Fondu - as noted, an early crucible steel type that surpassed the blister steel known previously.

I have not found that blades stamped Cast/Acier are always 'top quality', etc. At the time they were the best, yes, technically at least.

But shortly after, not so much. The earliest 'Cast Steel' blades are usually a bit too soft for me. Some better than others, Greaves Cast Steel is usually better than many others by a long shot. Greaves blades made later on were even better.
I own a Huntsman blade actually, it shaves but the steel is a bit too soft to keep me happy.

Obviously, crucible steel exists today, and it's top quality stuff, but it's a different thing entirely.

By the 1850s steel had improved upon tremendously.

Cast Steel is equivalent to Acier Fondu - as noted, an early crucible steel type that surpassed the blister steel known previously.

I have not found that blades stamped Cast/Acier are always 'top quality', etc. At the time they were the best, yes, technically at least.

But shortly after, not so much. The earliest 'Cast Steel' blades are usually a bit too soft for me. Some better than others, Greaves Cast Steel is usually better than many others by a long shot. Greaves blades made later on were even better.
I own a Huntsman blade actually, it shaves but the steel is a bit too soft to keep me happy.

Obviously, crucible steel exists today, and it's top quality stuff, but it's a different thing entirely.

By the 1850s steel had improved upon tremendously.
Do you happen to know if "Best Steel" is synonymous with "Cast Steel"? I have what looks like an early 19th century Sheffield...about an inch wide wedge with a stub tail. It's only markings are "G.R" or possibly "G.B...over "Best.Steel" with the dot centered between Best and Steel. It's a very fine razor...but the stamp I've never seen before. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!
 
Wow! Is this from your book? Thank you!

There are two articles. If you search the Internet for a sentence from each, you will find them.

The first article, from the Edge Dynamics site under history titled "Sheffield Razor Steel", is the best explanation of the history and techniques that I have read. I previously went on a roller coaster ride reading articles about steel on Wikipedia. A lot of good information, but piecing the different bits together was hard work and time consuming.

Thanks for posting, Jamie (@Mr Bedlington).
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
The old cast steel, or acier fondue as the French called it, was a way to further refine lower grades of steel.

From a practical standpoint of straight razors, the steel was hit or miss because of a lack of knowledge and process control, but most of the duds are long gone.

Cast steel/acier fondue made in the late 1700/early 1800s can be as good as anything made today. I was correcting wear and chip removal on a circa 1800 cast steel razor. I was using a semi-mellow 325 DMT because the steel was hard. The grind was heavy as all razors this old are, so heavy pressure and long strokes get the job done faster. I was expecting a large fin or burr, if you correct a Gold Dollar the same way, you can get a fin that separates and can stick in your finger - don’t ask how I know.

The cast steel edge off that 325 plate with heavy pressure was straight and even with very little or no fin. And did I mention that the steel was hard?

Steel that refuses to form a fin is a beautiful thing to see, work with, and shave with.
 
so heavy pressure and long strokes get the job done faster
I’ve been trying unsuccessfully. I’ve managed to hone and shave with many hollow ground razors, but this Bengal cast steel is not budging.

Either the tape is tearing up before bevel set , or if I don’t use tape, the spine is generating a ton of swarf.

The edge remains the same. I suppose I could try two pieces of tape.

I’m hesitating to go to diamond plates - 325 you said?? Wow. Lowest I’ve gone is my Shapton 1500. That could be another thing to try. Diamonds.
 

Steve56

Ask me about shaving naked!
I’ve been trying unsuccessfully. I’ve managed to hone and shave with many hollow ground razors, but this Bengal cast steel is not budging.

Either the tape is tearing up before bevel set , or if I don’t use tape, the spine is generating a ton of swarf.

The edge remains the same. I suppose I could try two pieces of tape.

I’m hesitating to go to diamond plates - 325 you said?? Wow. Lowest I’ve gone is my Shapton 1500. That could be another thing to try. Diamonds.

Glad to help out if needed, send it to me. I love a challenge.

BTW, I’m using tape with the DMT, I can correct bevel angle after shave testing if needed, but once you take steel off, you can’t put it back on.
 
Thank you for your kind offer, Steve. I’ll try one more time this weekend. If unsuccessful, I’ll take you up on your offer.
 
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