Caring for wood scales
- Thread starter Stygo
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
Most of my SR scales are of "unsealed" timber. What I do is apply beeswax to the timber. I prefer beeswax as it is more natural and doesn't give a high gloss finish. Americans like glossy things, so beeswax might not suitable for them.
When I first receive the SR, all timber surfaces get about 6 applications of beeswax. After that they are rewaxed about every 6 months. An alternative to beeswax is timber floor wax (also mostly beeswax). Each application is apply, rubbing well in, allow to dry about 30 minutes and then polish.
If interested, I will provide instructions.
When I first receive the SR, all timber surfaces get about 6 applications of beeswax. After that they are rewaxed about every 6 months. An alternative to beeswax is timber floor wax (also mostly beeswax). Each application is apply, rubbing well in, allow to dry about 30 minutes and then polish.
If interested, I will provide instructions.
Timber scales don’t require any special care. They shouldn’t be getting wet. If you oil your blades, you could give them a wipe down with an oily rag once in a while. That should do it.
White Oak is what they use for wine barrels and whiskey barrels
and whisky barrels.
It can get wet.
and whisky barrels.
It can get wet.
Some species of wood are naturally resistant to rot.
Out of all of the various scale materials,
the one that feels the best in my hand
is unfinished wood, sanded smooth but otherwise unfinished.
This one is rosewood.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
I agree, particularly about the feel. Most of my timber scales SRs are of various Australian hardwoods, except for the Burmese teak. Most are rot resistant, however just about all timbers can swell to a certain extent when wet. Beeswax helps to prevent this wetting effect yet still leaves you with the natural feel of timber.
I am however, going to try my hand at CA sealing some Queensland black wood timber scales on a GD66 modification that will be PIFed when finished. I'm thinking of the American market here.
I’ve made a living dealing with wood carving and custom woodworking. If what you’re saying is true, that the scales are untreated , then yes, your only real recourse at this time is a coat of wax. With wax on them you really can’t apply any other finish at this point.
A half dozen coats of wax though is as absurd as
Waxing your car 6 times. Pointless.
As far as the finest finishes known around the world hasn’t been raw wood with wax but a French polish finish which has been loved for centuries.
You cannot beat its look or feel. And this isn’t just an American obsession as some seem to think.
Throughout Europe and to the far East with polished lacquer finishes , a shine has been loved. It brings out the beauty in wood.
There is a very real reason to NOT leave wood raw.
Now some will take a blade and sand it to 2000 grit and then polish it to a high gloss instead of the natural grinding marks that are normal and then claim it’s “Americans” that like shiny things. A bit hypocritical. As if their cars, wood floors, cabinetry , and furniture are all left in a raw unfinished state but do like polished shiny blades. As if raw wood is some noble , if ill conceived goal.
I’m glad to know some are willing to cater
To an “American market” in their grand gesture to PIF a $2.00
Gold Dollar to some deserving American.
I’m humbled.
A half dozen coats of wax though is as absurd as
Waxing your car 6 times. Pointless.
As far as the finest finishes known around the world hasn’t been raw wood with wax but a French polish finish which has been loved for centuries.
You cannot beat its look or feel. And this isn’t just an American obsession as some seem to think.
Throughout Europe and to the far East with polished lacquer finishes , a shine has been loved. It brings out the beauty in wood.
There is a very real reason to NOT leave wood raw.
Now some will take a blade and sand it to 2000 grit and then polish it to a high gloss instead of the natural grinding marks that are normal and then claim it’s “Americans” that like shiny things. A bit hypocritical. As if their cars, wood floors, cabinetry , and furniture are all left in a raw unfinished state but do like polished shiny blades. As if raw wood is some noble , if ill conceived goal.
I’m glad to know some are willing to cater
To an “American market” in their grand gesture to PIF a $2.00
Gold Dollar to some deserving American.
I’m humbled.
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On another note.
Ever see a Fender Stratocaster unfinished? Does that look better or worse after the finish is applied.
A LesPaul, Martin guitar?
I live 15 minutes from Martin guitars . I assure you they DON’T finish with raw wood and 6 coats of wax.
A chippendale piece of furniture?
A lacquered piece of Japanese furniture?
Yeah, Raw wood with just wax.
I don’t think so. That’s just lazy.
And now somebody wants a shiny finish for Americans.
Ohhh yeah,,we’re much too ignorant loving shiny baubles to amuse us to know any better.
Insulting.
Ever see a Fender Stratocaster unfinished? Does that look better or worse after the finish is applied.
A LesPaul, Martin guitar?
I live 15 minutes from Martin guitars . I assure you they DON’T finish with raw wood and 6 coats of wax.
A chippendale piece of furniture?
A lacquered piece of Japanese furniture?
Yeah, Raw wood with just wax.
I don’t think so. That’s just lazy.
And now somebody wants a shiny finish for Americans.
Ohhh yeah,,we’re much too ignorant loving shiny baubles to amuse us to know any better.
Insulting.
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rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
@mycarver, when waxing bare timber, at least two and preferably three applications is recommended. The second application is to cover any "holidays" in the first application and the third application is just to make sure.
I normally do about 5 or 6 applications as each additional application tends to increase the shine a bit more. Must be some American ancestry in me (but not a lot
).
I normally do about 5 or 6 applications as each additional application tends to increase the shine a bit more. Must be some American ancestry in me (but not a lot
).
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