Can't achieve consistent shave quality

[Quaznoid]

Too many variables.
Stick with your razor (although you might try a Tech or SuperSpeed, which work well for tens of millions) but try a different blade. I like the Lords, ie Lord, Shark, Asco, Big Ben, Racer, Rainbow, Silver Star, et al, which are medium sharp and very smooth. Shave with that brand of blade for six months. Perfect your technique. If you don’t like the results try a different blade OR razor but not both. Change only one variable at a time until you find the groove.
Two other points: 1) lather is for slickness not cushioning. Make it thin and slick; 2) try one pass WTG and one pass ATG.
Keep at it; you’ll get it.

 

[CCS]

I've been DE shaving for so long now, I think I can use most razors (certainly the ones I own) without much issue and the same with blades and software. Now, I do NOT have a coarse or heavy beard and while we all like to think we have sensitive skin, I think fewer of us actually do than claimed. I certainly have a fair complexion but I don't feel I have sensitive skin, certainly not since I learned how to shave correctly. Issues that people blame on sensitive skin, I suspect usually fall to technique issues. In shaving, learning proper technique is everything. A lot of people posting here seem to have issues using too much pressure rather than letting the blade do the work and letting the razor glide lightly on your face. Another issue seems to be with lather. Personally, I'm convinced a thinner, slicker lather is preferable to the one I made today with a new to me cream. It was fluffy and peaky but not as slick as I prefer. That was on me, I think. Regardless, the shave was easy with no irritation or blood because I used a light touch letting the razor and blade do the work. I don't find blades make a lot of difference in the various razors I use (all of my gear is listed in my profile)

IMO, work on your technique and maybe buy an old Gillette Ball End Tech as @Quaznoid suggested. It's pretty mild though and a guy with a coarse, heavy beard might want something more efficient.

 

[BigJ]

Welcome aboard!

Great advice above!!

I humbly suggest that the most likely issue is inconsistent technique. So I suggest you systematically examine each aspect of your approach, changing one thing at a time.

Stick with this and you will get the results you want!!

 

[drb1956]

I use German Wilkies, and I get great, smooth shaves, and I shave 5-6 days a week, usually 2 passes, WTG, and XTG. I am 99% done just WTG, but go across the grain, and do clean ups for a
DFS. I'm not concerned with a BBS. Consistent technique is key to a smooth shave. Rushing through a shave is also not good for consistency. Beard prep IS key to getting a close comfortable shave. Proper beard hydration can be achieved by washing your face, rinsing well, and then take a washcloth that is wet, not dripping, with hot water, as hot as you can stand, and hold it on your face for at least a minute. Before your soap or cream, wet your face again, brush on your soap, making sure you have a good balance of moisture in your brush, and apply to your beard. Let it stand on your face for a minute, as most soaps and creams have stearic acid in them, which will soften your beard. Check the list of ingredients in your soap. Stearic acid should be in the top 3 ingredients, along with glycerin. These will give you a smooth shave, but also protect your face from irritation. Let the razor do the work. Very minimal pressure is needed, especially since you use an open comb razor. German Wilkies are a good blade, and should give you a smooth, irritation free shave. I flip my blades every shave after the 2nd shave of a new blade. I get usually 7 great shaves, but have had as many as 14 with a German Wilikinson Sword. I use Gillette Pure shave cream, with my Parker 91R razor(3 piece, closed comb), loaded with a Wilkie.

 

[Doc Dan]

It is hard to know where the problem lies without actually being there to see you shave. It could be 1] the soap. Proraso isn't the best soap out there, by a long shot. Try a better soap that is slicker, such as Stirling, Mitchell's Wool Fat, La Toja, or etc. I like the MWF and La Toja because they are not heavily perfumed and perfume can irritate skin. Proraso is known to irritate skin and it leaves mine dry and uncomfortable. 2] It could be your razor. As nice as Pearl razors are, some are knockoffs of other razors. Or, the razor might have the wrong gap or exposure for you. Are you Indian with a heavy coarse beard? Maybe a Henson +++ AL13 Aggressive or some other milder shaving, yet aggressive razor. 3] It could be inconsistent razor angle. If you use the wrong angle the blade will scrape your skin instead of cutting your hair. Ride the cap a bit more and then come down from there. The blade should not scrape, but glide. 4] I doubt it is the blade, but you could use a Voshkod, which is a bit milder and see what happens.
Start with these four things. I'd start with the angle experimentation and a better soap before I bought a new razor.

 

[Ron R]

It is good you know your beard map and to me a person will not get a BBS unless he goes ATG for 2nd or 3rd pass depending on how many passes a fellow does. I get very close shaves almost daily with a 2 pass WTG + ATG with pickups and that is all I try for unless I'm using a very mild razor I will do a 3 pass with pickups. All I aim for is CCS,DFS,BBS range and I'm happy and I get lots of BBs shaves over a year and the first 2 years was mostly DFS,BBs shaves.
I will mention that if you have to have a BBs shave you can cheat a little by just using a balm, a balm will hydrate the outer surface of your skin and sort sink the whisker because the it is rooted deeper and in effect you will feel a smoooth skin surface about a hour after applying when hydrated!
Lots of good advice here and you will find your procedure that works well with just a little tweaking because you are almost there now.

 

[Knuckleballer]

To answer your last question, and this is only my experience, for me the Rapira Platinum Lux and Ladas blades seem to retain their initial sharpness well. The multiple types of Treet blades I’ve tried also seem to hold their edge nicely, however I typically discard those after 5-6 3 pass shaves since the carbon steel tends to rust quicker. Lord Platinum was another one that seemed to hold its edge nicely. Some of these blades even give their best shaves after a couple uses.

 

[aussie]

Welcome to B&B!!

After thirty-two years of shaving with carts, it took me over a year to lose the old muscle memory to the point where I could get a good shave with a DE. So persistence pays. You'll get there eventually so long as you stick with it.

I reiterate advice given above by suggesting you shave every day with the same set up. You have two skills to acquire simultaneously - shaving and lathering. If your lather is not up to standard you can't expect good results.

After your blade goes dull, change your set up until the next (i.e. different) blade also goes dull. Maybe post photos of your lather here for experienced wet shavers to evaluate.

Good luck!

 

[aussie]

I've been shaving with a safety razor for a little bit less than a year and I hardly can remember when I had two perfect BBS shaves in a row.
I shave 3-4 times a week. I have pretty coarse stubble and sensitive skin. I've tried different techniques, stretching the skin or no stretching at all, advanced shaving techniques too. I still have the issue.
I think the main cause can be the blades. For example I can have a really great, close, irritation-free shave with a fresh Wilkinson Sword (or another good blade) but on the second shave the blade seem to lose all of its smoothness and get really aggressive (some get dull) and I get a lot of nicks and irritation.
I've tried Feather blades but they seem too sharp for me. Bic blades seem to work fine as well as Russian Rapira blades, and my last great shave was with a fresh Wilkinson Sword blade.
Can you advice blades that retain their initial sharpness well and have good smoothness in general? I don't mind shaving advices too.

Also I forgot to mention - experiment with different blades. I have a mother load for sale now on the BST section of the forum.

Since I mostly use shavettes these days, my substantial stock of safety razor blades will never depleted before I shuffle off this mortal coil.

 

[musicman1951]

Let's consider the possibilities (in no particular order):
1. Lather not up to par
2. Razor not a good match for your skin/beard
3. Blade not a good match for your razor/skin/beard
4. Technique needs to be refined
5. Prep is inadequate
6. Strokes too long
7. Too much pressure
8. Razor angle is off
9. Trying for BBS when some of the above have yet to be corrected.
10. etc.

So what's the problem? Beats me, but you can't work on 5 things at once. You mentioned nicks in one post and that's technique. Feathers are the most unforgiving blade for poor razor angle and/or too much pressure, but they don't cause nicks. I've never had a weeper with a Feather blade, and I'm no genius with a razor - although they do scare me a little and I'm extra careful when I use them.

Blood = technique that needs more attention. Razor angle and pressure are the two things virtually everyone struggles with at the beginning of this journey. You're obviously very close given the good shave days, so it might be easier than you think. Lighten up the pressure. Yes, you've already done that, but even lighter. If you're not dropping the razor in the sink you've got plenty of pressure. With that light pressure you will be more or less forced to get the razor angle perfect. It won't cut well with no pressure and bad angle.

I'd start there. Pick your best blade to date and use that for a while - one less variable. If your technique is good you can get a decent shave with almost any blade.

Try a longer prep and very short strokes. They're both easy.

Shaving is not golf - you can learn shaving. But it took me longer than a year to get consistent, blood-free BBS shaves. If you do what you did, you'll get what you got. Try something different and try to enjoy the journey.

Good luck.