Can it be fixed? Other thoughts?
Thanks
Can this little Ever-Ready be fixed
- Thread starter BrooklynSalt
- Start date
Can it be fixed? Other thoughts?
Thanks
Not familiar with this particular model but don't the blade stops and tabs hold the blade in place? Or is the broken tab the one that pushes the blade down?
- Thread starter
- #3
Thr broken one pushed it down. So it only holds on one side. One pass was enough.
Ah I see. I have an old lather catcher with the same problem. Could you somehow wedge a piece of metal between the back of the razor and the back of the blade to push against the blade when closed?
If you get on the Straight Razor forum, and search "riveting", you'll find out how to peen your own little brass rivets.
For your razor:
1) Gently pry the sides away from the retaining pins, and pop the top off.
2) Using a 1/16" bit, drill out the rivets.
3) Get these:
1/16" x 5/8" brass rivets round head snap head | eBay
4) And this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RLGF1Q/ref=dp_cerb_2 (I prefer the chasing hammer to the peening, unless I get to inspect the hammer in person.)
5) Get a piece of modestly thick (~22gauge) stainless flat stock from Ace Hardware:
K&S 1/2 in. Stainless Steel Strip - Ace Hardware
6) Using a Dremel and pliers, cut a piece of steel roughly the same size as the spring. Use a cut-off wheel as a grinder, and shape it to approximate the original. Gently, bend into the original shape. Drill the rivet holes (use the original as a template.)
7) Trim your rivet stock to about 2-3mm longer than needed.
8) Place the rivet with the formed head facing inward, and using a nylon punch as a backing block, begin your peen tapping to form the rear head.
It takes practice. Yes, you can do it. It will take you a couple of hours the first time, but after you do it 3 or so times, it will be 40 minutes to an hour, depending on what you're restoring.
Sorry, I didn't notice the older hinged head on yours. It should still be possible to gently bend things to remove the top. Just take your time.
For your razor:
1) Gently pry the sides away from the retaining pins, and pop the top off.
2) Using a 1/16" bit, drill out the rivets.
3) Get these:
1/16" x 5/8" brass rivets round head snap head | eBay
4) And this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009RLGF1Q/ref=dp_cerb_2 (I prefer the chasing hammer to the peening, unless I get to inspect the hammer in person.)
5) Get a piece of modestly thick (~22gauge) stainless flat stock from Ace Hardware:
K&S 1/2 in. Stainless Steel Strip - Ace Hardware
6) Using a Dremel and pliers, cut a piece of steel roughly the same size as the spring. Use a cut-off wheel as a grinder, and shape it to approximate the original. Gently, bend into the original shape. Drill the rivet holes (use the original as a template.)
7) Trim your rivet stock to about 2-3mm longer than needed.
8) Place the rivet with the formed head facing inward, and using a nylon punch as a backing block, begin your peen tapping to form the rear head.
It takes practice. Yes, you can do it. It will take you a couple of hours the first time, but after you do it 3 or so times, it will be 40 minutes to an hour, depending on what you're restoring.
Sorry, I didn't notice the older hinged head on yours. It should still be possible to gently bend things to remove the top. Just take your time.
That looks like the 1914 Little Lather Catcher; it's well worth finding one in good condition if you can't repair yours. I prefer mine over the various 1912 iterations and the Micromatics.
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