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Can these razors be saved?

Buzzardstubble

Buzzardstubble

I recently found a pair of straight razors in a vintage shop and took a risk on buying them. They only cost £9 for the pair but the reason being that it looks like someone has had a go on them with a Dremel or some kind of tool. Here are some pictures of what the blades look like:

$Lnw3j.jpg$juMcg.jpg$gFXSR.jpg$tYKXG.jpg$T49eT.jpg

I really hope that at least one of them can be restored to look and function well. For added information one is a Bismarck and the other is a XLALL Parkin & Marshall "The Gem". So how does the diagnosis look? :biggrin1:
 
Slash McCoy

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
LOTS of hand sanding LOL! Yes they can be saved but it will be a lot of work. The Bismarck is a well regarded razor. Not familiar with the other one.
 
Buzzardstubble

Buzzardstubble

Lots of sanding it is then :D is it worth sending off to a pro or simply following the tutorials on this site and having a crack at it myself? The Parkin & Marshall says it was made in Sheffield, England. I live about 80 miles from Sheffield and know that the whole city was and is known for its very high quality steel products so hopefully the razor is a good one :)
 
Slash McCoy

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
I think the Dovo would be worth sending out. Check the prices on Dovo Bismarcks and figure $100 to have yours professionally restored, as a rough estimate. YMMV of course.
 
Toff

Toff

From the looks of the photos, someone with a Dremel and a rough wheel went to town on them. That may have ruined the edges. The old Sheffield would be the one I would expect to survive that treatment.
Good Luck!
~Richard
 
Buzzardstubble

Buzzardstubble

As far as I can tell the blade edges have no nicks in them at all, although there is probably something I am missing. These are the best pictures I could get of the edges themselves:

$P8232533.jpg$P8232534.jpg
 
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Slash McCoy

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Nicks, Schmicks. Even if the old edge is dinged up, there is ANOTHER edge lurking inside the steel. Just gotta hone down to it.

Here's how to start. Get some 120 grit wet/dry sandpaper. You will need several sheets. Get a couple of pieces of rubber hose, about 4" long and just big enough to get your finger inside. Wrap some sandpaper around the hose and glue the end down. LocTite Spray Adhesive is your friend. Gorilla Glue is excellent but you have to wait while it dries. Use these hose/paper thingamabobs as sanding blocks to hit the hollow of the grind and fair up into the tang. Keep going and keep going. If you see traces of the old scratches, you aren't even close to done yet. To get the part of the blade near the edge, fold some paper with the grit side inward, over the spine of the razor so that the edges of the paper extend beyond the edge of the blade. Pinch this sandpaper/razor sandwich between thumb and forefinger, with the spine toward the web of the hand. Now slide the paper back and forth along the blade. You can also hit the spine using the same basic configuration.

Only when ALL TRACES of the damage have been removed will you progress to finer paper. Each stage must COMPLETELY remove ALL scratches left by the previous stage, and leave nothing but its own, new, finer scratches. So after 120, go 180, 220, 300, 400, 600, and 1000 grit. If any stage is not carried out to its proper conclusion, the following stages will NOT be able to do their work properly. If you can find 1500 and 2000 grit paper, use them too.

If you keep the paper wet, it will cut a little faster and load up less.

After progressing through the sandpaper, get some 3u and 1u diamond paste. If you want a really sparkling finish, also get some .25u paste. You can use a felt wheel in a dremel if you are brave or reckless or just plain skillful and confident. Otherwise, apply about two bb's worth to the blade and rub it with a small piece of an old tshirt, pinching it down on both sides fo teh blade just like you did with the sandpaper. Take your time. If you rush through this, it will show. If you take your time, it will amaze.

After polishing, hone the razor. You might be removing a lot of steel, so absolutely DO NOT apply tape to the spine. The spine must wear in proportion to the edge, or you will be significantly changing the bevel angle. If you don't like to see a flat on the spine, tough. Well, actually, you can make it go away. Just sand it back round again, and re-polish the spine and anywhere that the coarse sandpaper has touched.

Good luck. And we want to see pics as you progress. Try getting better light. Maybe shoot outdoors?
 
Buzzardstubble

Buzzardstubble

Wow thanks for that info! I may have a go at sanding myself, it cant hurt right? As for the honing I have no idea where to even start with that so I might end up sending it to somebody for that part. I will have to have a dip into my bank and buy some wet 'n' dry :biggrin1:

As for the light in the pics I am actually a little ashamed of myself as photography is a hobby of mine. I will set up a light and do some long exposure shots soon to get the real detail :)
 
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Slash McCoy

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Oh and I almost forgot... it is really really easy to cut yourself really really bad, sanding a razor. Do be careful.
 
Buzzardstubble

Buzzardstubble

I will do Kirk. I have just been out to a model shop (hobby shop) and got some 1/16" brass rod for repinning as I am going to take the blades out of the scales for restoration, need to pick up some of the tiny washers and a 2oz hammer. Also ordered the first 4 grades of Wet N Dry so I can make a good start on the blades :biggrin1:

Does anyone know the best way to handle the Gem razor? It has some engraving on the face of the blade and I don't want to lose that through sanding. Is it best to just sand around it or leave it until later and sand it with a higher grade to get a bit of a polish on it?
 
Buzzardstubble

Buzzardstubble

Well the first 4 grades of Wet N Dry have arrived, I have the brass rod for pinning already and I have a 1/16 punch and a 2oz hammer on the way. Also I have found a UK supplier for 10BA brass washers. Tomorrow I am going to drill the old pins out and start on the Bismarck blade :biggrin1: wish me luck!
 
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