Can anybody recommend someone that grids razors?

[Biltong & Boerewors]

I bought these blades on eBay, a few months ago, thinking they were from used razors. I was surprised when they arrived and it turned out they were blanks and were never ground.
I would like to have them ground, especially the Dorko Frameback and the Bismarck. Tested both with a file and they have been hardened. The shiny one doesn't seem to be hard enough.
Are there any experts that will be willing to take on the job?

 

[Schwabenchris]

I would contact either Ralf Aust or Wacker about that. Both in Germany.

Also Koraat in Austria could be an Option.

 

[6Cuda6]

Do an online search for custom knife or razor makers in your area....

 

[Doc226]

I’m not sure, but I doubt any razor makers would take on the work not knowing how it was heat treated.


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[Biltong & Boerewors]

I’m not sure, but I doubt any razor makers would take on the work not knowing how it was heat treated.

That was what my thoughts were, reputable manufacturers would be unlikely to take on an unknown. I was thinking more of someone that does it for a hobby. I wouldn’t mind if someone with the knowledge and skill have a go and fail. I don’t know if it’s worth the effort, but I just don’t like the idea of them being wasted.
The idea is not to have a expensive razor for a cheap price, it’s more about trying to make something of them that I would enjoy. In their current state, they are just worthless bits of steel.

 

[totorlekiller]

View attachment 967792 I was surprised when they arrived and it turned out they were blanks and were never ground.
I would like to have them ground, especially the Dorko Frameback and the Bismarck.

Do you mean that they do not have a bevel at all or that they were not hollowed out?

I recently got a Dorko 8/8 blank like that and it was indeed a blank that had never been honed. All it required was a lot of time on a DMT (using tape) to form the bevel. I suspect that is what you need here.
I don't think any grinding is needed.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Do you mean that they do not have a bevel at all or that they were not hollowed out?

I recently got a Dorko 8/8 blank like that and it was indeed a blank that had never been honed. All it required was a lot of time on a DMT (using tape) to form the bevel. I suspect that is what you need here.
I don't think any grinding is needed.

I can see that it will be possible with the Dorko, because it’s a frameback, but the Bismarck is much thicker.
If I have it right, the process of commercial razor making is that the blanks gets stamped out by a machine, then it gets heat treated. The next step is for the razor maker to grind and thin the blade, finishing it. Then you are ready to hone it to the shaving edge. If you go straight to honing it after it’s stamped, you will not have a thin blade and of course it will not be properly and accurately finished.

 

[totorlekiller]

Your Dorko looks like a 444. Which is not a frameback, but something often referred to as faux-frameback. It gets that way by grinding it with the wheel parallel to the blade, instead of orthogonally. It is an older process than the grinding typically used to hollow out. I got one of those 444 blank that is floating around. It took some effort to hone, but once done, mine worked great. It was definitely heat treated.
It is hard to see the other 2 blades without seeing the other angle of the blade.
From this picture, they look like this large Dorko blank I got. Here is what the blade looked like when I got it.

After a long time honing, this is what it got to

The breadth of the honing line shows how much metal I had to take out. And this was with 2 strips of electric tape. It took me many, many hours on a DMT.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Your Dorko looks like a 444. Which is not a frameback, but something often referred to as faux-frameback. It gets that way by grinding it with the wheel parallel to the blade, instead of orthogonally. It is an older process than the grinding typically used to hollow out. I got one of those 444 blank that is floating around. It took some effort to hone, but once done, mine worked great. It was definitely heat treated.
It is hard to see the other 2 blades without seeing the other angle of the blade.
From this picture, they look like this large Dorko blank I got. Here is what the blade looked like when I got it.
View attachment 968400

After a long time honing, this is what it got to
View attachment 968403
The breadth of the honing line shows how much metal I had to take out. And this was with 2 strips of electric tape. It took me many, many hours on a DMT.

You are right, It's a Dorko 444. After seeing yours I think I will take it on, first sanding it and finishing it, then I will see if I can get a proper bevel on it. Here is a profile photo of it.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Here is the other one, it's a Bismarck 2. You will see what I mean about the blade needs thinning. Don't know who was the manufacturer, I have another vintage Bismarck but it looks completely different. I know Dovo also have a Bismarck model. I don't think I will bother with the shiny one, no maker stamp and it looks soft when I tested it with a file.

 

[totorlekiller]

The Bismarck you have is a pre-Dovo from Bismarck RAzor Works of Solingen (Germany). It was founded in 1892 and was taken over by Dovo In 1957.
Honing it seems possible. About the same work as my Dorko. I hope you have a very coarse DMT and a lot of electric tape. I did mine on blue and red DMT and wished I had the coarser one.

The Dorko in the picture is my 88. I also have a 444 that was also hellish to hone, but I do not have any pictures handy of it. I'll post later when I get to my other computer.

 

[totorlekiller]

I found this old thread recounting my misadventure with the 444
The Dorko 444 still eludes me

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Looks like I am in for a challenge!
I started honing razors about a year ago, and have had some success after struggling with TI’s and Gold Dollars. I never tried honing with tape, because I strop on a pasted paddle strop after every shave and my thoughts were that if you tape when honing, you will have to tape every time when stropping on the paddle strop to maintain the same bevel. I can see that it will be necessary to tape this blade, otherwise I will loose too much of the spine. Watched a lot of YouTube videos about honing so I think understand how to do it.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

OK, so I have been busy today. I cleaned it up and also managed to get the blade profile thinner and closer to an edge. A few hours grinding lengthwise on a diamond plate. Think I will put some scales on and go shop for electrical tape, before honing. Doesn't matter how careful I am, I always manage to put a ding in it when attaching scales!

 

[totorlekiller]

If you want to be able to refresh the edge after honing, you can take the tape off after you get the bevel.
It will take you a bit more time to redo the bevel, but since the adjustment will be very small at that point, the hone wear will be minimum.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

I made some progress. Fitted some scales and I started honing. I tried honing with tape, but it's not for me. The tape rubbed through after about 50 laps and made a mess of my stone. I don't intend selling it so I don't mind putting some serious hone wear on it. It's going to take a while, but I will get there.

 

[totorlekiller]

In this specific case, since there is so much metal to take off to get to a bevel, if you do not put tape, I am afraid that would take a lot of your spine. My recommendation is to suffer through the tape until the bevel is found.
Then if you want to take it out, the necessary bevel adjustment would not be bad. Post bevel setting, the honing marks are not a big deal.

 

[Schwabenchris]

Do you have a diamond plate or a rougher stone?

Why don't you grind a higher angle bevel first by lifting the back of the straight razor?
Once you have a bevel you set the real bevel for shaving.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Do you have a diamond plate or a rougher stone?

Why don't you grind a higher angle bevel first by lifting the back of the straight razor?
Once you have a bevel you set the real bevel for shaving.

That's what the tape on the spine is for, like Tortorlekiller recommend. Some people hone with several layers of tape on the spine to lift and protect the spine. It's recommended for older razors that have been honed a lot, or when you have a razor that you don't want to have hone wear on.

I set bevels on a 3000 grid stone, it's the coarsest stone I have. It takes a bit of work, but in most cases you only have to do it once. I don't mind spending the time to do it right.

 

[paintflinger]

That's what the tape on the spine is for, like Tortorlekiller recommend. Some people hone with several layers of tape on the spine to lift and protect the spine. It's recommended for older razors that have been honed a lot, or when you have a razor that you don't want to have hone wear on.

I set bevels on a 3000 grid stone, it's the coarsest stone I have. It takes a bit of work, but in most cases you only have to do it once. I don't mind spending the time to do it right.

Kapton tape should last longer.