I recognized the author of first post. Which is now gone......... glitch in the matrix......
Found this here......Burnishing an Arkansas Stone?
If you use without oil or water it will not burnish, but it will clog/glazed the pores.When I was a young boy, I discovered that if you use an ark without oil or water, it will burnish it to a pretty unusable state, pretty much permanently. Lapping might fix, not something known to most knife sharpeners. I didn't know that term until now, and my dad was not a happy camper, fisher, and/or hunter
If you use without oil or water it will not burnish, but it will clog/glazed the pores.
No glazing and clogged are basically the same. Just say if you use the stone just the way it is now, but without oil or water. By doing this it will not float away the metal particles, and they particles will become embedded into the pores of the stone and that will make it ineffective. Meaning it will not put the final polish on your razor, because it will mot polish or will not cut.It won't take the high points off? Your stones work differently without oil than mine do. From the other thread, burnishing is the removal of high points, and the clogging of the pores. Without oil it is permanent clogging though.
Glazing is a synonym of burnishing BTW.
If the stone is not flat, then I use 80 grit SIC powder to lap it flat,( > then I finish my stone on finer grits of sandpaper or SIC powder to get the desired texture/finish i want. <) This part is called reconditioning the stoneif it's not proprietary what is your lapping, burnishing technique?
After the 80 grit sandpaper or SIC grit ( which ever you choose is up to you) I would use loose grit powder SIC on glass to lap it flat then go to wet/dry sandpaper to get you desired finish with 220 grit, 600grit, then 1000. If you like you can take it to 2000 grit. Note: while you are doing this use water on and with the abrasive media used to work/lap the stone.Do you continue with finer grits to get to burnished?
No glazing and clogged are basically the same. Just say if you use the stone just the way it is now, but without oil or water. By doing this it will not float away the metal particles, and they particles will become embedded into the pores of the stone and that will make it ineffective. Meaning it will not put the final polish on your razor, because it will mot polish or will not cut.
Burnishing is when you are changing the texture of the stone, by a you stated" knocking the high points down." By really fine sandpaper or lapping compound, such as silicon carbide loose grit powder on flat glass.You are essentially making the stone finer and more glassy. You always want to use a lubricant when sharpening. This will float the metal particles away and let the stone do its work. If you started with oil you have to continue with oil, unless you degrease the stone, by using a product called purple power or mean green. Then you can use soapy water to hone with. I hope this makes sense. If you want the stone prepared for a razor i'd be happy to burnish it.
I don't know how else to say it. Burnishing and lapping you are going through the same motions. When you are lapping/flatting you use very coarse abrasive, because it is not truly flat, and you don't take 1000 grit abrasive to flatten a dished stone, because you will not likely get there You check for flat by using a ruler or some kind of straight edge. If the stone is true or flat then just burnish or polish the surface.
The burnishing you do the same thing except using finer abrasive. You can make the stone like a mirror if you want by polishing the stone with finer abrasives.