Nope, just my own stuff typically. I can tell that my edges are more than shave ready though.
Buffing Wheel Question
- Thread starter El Dingo Satanico
- Start date
I’ll get there eventually. I enjoy honing as much as shaving but razors hold so many mysteries to be understood. It just takes a lot of observation, patience and time. Fortunately Gold Dollars are cheap.
The buffer I have is two speed, the slow speed is plenty and does not make too much sound. A bit expensive though, but is a great machine.
XtremepowerUS Benchtop Buffer Polisher Grinder Heavy Duty (10")
XtremepowerUS Benchtop Buffer Polisher Grinder Heavy Duty (10")
Yes, a buffer can enhance the flaws. Elbow grease and a little more elbow grease. Save the buffing for the final shine after the surface is flawless. Same with the scales, though most scale material sands much easier than the metal blade.
I have a couple mandrels for my lathe with buffing wheels. This setup is from Beall. Can crank the speed to whatever feel right and works on a particular item. Hard rosewoods buffed with the three compounds pictured leaves a hard, wet look shine. The white diamond works quite well putting a shine to most metals.
You mean if one is polishing, not using a grit progression to expose fresh steel? Or that too, as it shows up any uneven hone wear etc?
Personally, a quick poish usually does me fine if the razor is not trashed, but for resale I have to maximise the look. Sadly, again for me, this means the original factory / workshop grind marks disappear.
I would also warn about using greaseless compound:
1. On hollow grind blades absolutely protect your edge! The buff will eat it up like a cookie!
2. As I'm sure you are aware, NEVER attempt to buff with the edge up.
3. Buff in short bursts as opposed to lengthy cycles. You can always take more off but you can't put it back!
4. Watch your blade temperature! Keep a cup of water near you to cool it down periodically.
I have personally ruined blades do to each of these warnings.
1. On hollow grind blades absolutely protect your edge! The buff will eat it up like a cookie!
2. As I'm sure you are aware, NEVER attempt to buff with the edge up.
3. Buff in short bursts as opposed to lengthy cycles. You can always take more off but you can't put it back!
4. Watch your blade temperature! Keep a cup of water near you to cool it down periodically.
I have personally ruined blades do to each of these warnings.
I've been wanting one for a long time. Glad I saw this thread first!
Just FYI, a router speed control won't be much use for a buffer. Those speed controls are made for use with a motor type called a universal motor that can run on either AC or DC and which doesn't have a start capacitor. A buffer uses a plain induction motor, and nearly 100% of them are capacitor-start motors. There's a capacitor in circuit when they start that gives the motor a quick push in whatever direction it's supposed to rotate, then the cap drops out of the circuit. Usually this is accomplished with a centrifugal switch. So as soon as you try to lower the speed with a router control, the centrifugal switch cuts in and there's a big problem - notably that the starting circuit wiring is not designed for constant use. The wiring in these circuits is usually very small gauge and will overheat rapidly, quite likely burning out the starting circuit.
^ What he said ^
That's correct, but in this particular case I'm guessing that the 4" buffer was underpowered to begin with. Throwing a 6" buff on there just magnifies the lack of torque, so what's probably happening in this specific case is that the buffing is dragging the motor RPM way down during the work, creating less heat overall. Is this buffer an Asiatic import? I ask this specific question because their H.P. ratings are almost universally just a wee bit overinflated.
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