i think i have finally found a way of getting an edge that works for me i go in progression with the buffing and polishing compound chart showing this companies grit level. i worked my way from black emory doing 50-60 passes on hommade denim strop then brown tripoli then white diamond then the green one doing 50-60 laps on the denim strops then on the red one i try to use no pressure and do 120+ passes on the red. i probably wouldent need to if i had the blue compound i do 10 strops or so between both of the runs on the red. the edge cuts hair but is delicate enough that i can shave twice in a day with very little to no irritation. what irritaton i do get i blame on me still learning correct pressure and technique. does anyone else do this. if not i want to call it the "jeff's poorman method". feed back?
buffing compound edge
- Thread starter Staggers and Jags
- Start date
The problem with polishing compound is, you don’t know what is in them, what is the abrasive(s) and the grit. They are made to aggressively cut and polish, the composition are proprietary.
You can get a mirror bevel and sharp edge stropping on metal polish, but the edge is harsh for shaving, great for tools but not shaving.
There are many proven pastes for razors, of known grit and grit size that produce repeatable results.
You can get a mirror bevel and sharp edge stropping on metal polish, but the edge is harsh for shaving, great for tools but not shaving.
There are many proven pastes for razors, of known grit and grit size that produce repeatable results.
I have done some car paint polishing with different polishes and compounds over the years. I have been tempted to try some of them as compound for knifes to clean up the edge/deburring.
I would say what we refer to in the detailing world as compound is quite coarse, and might not be suitable for razors.
Allot of new wonder products have been released in recent years, but there is no way to know the size of the particles, distribution etc. Nono polish, what does that mean. Is this sub micron particles as advertised.
Some of the all in one products are design to brake down, meaning they start coarse and brake down into smaller particles. 2-3 in one product will definitely not be the best choice.
I was considering trying this so-called nano polish i have in the garage just for fun.
I would assume the particle distribution in this is better then the typical green stuff, but i am not sure how well it works on metal. This particular one is water soluble.
It cuts German car paint quite well, even if you use it by hand.
New car clear coat is really thin and hard (if you disregard Tesla's gummy paint
these are around 80-150 micron thick, including base coat. The usable range of clear coat you can remove might not be more then 30-50 microns at best. So to avoid taking off to much clear coat the modern compounds and polishes need to be quite fine.
I also have some nano glass polish. I would assume this should be capable of cutting steel. This is not a diminishing abrasive, so it should be quite fine.
These detailing geeks take this stuff really seriously. There might be some products that actually can be used for other applications. Some even inspect their paint with a microscope. Sound familiar
Maybe it is just marketing bs. More or less the same stuff in different rapping in some new wonder fluid
I would say what we refer to in the detailing world as compound is quite coarse, and might not be suitable for razors.
Allot of new wonder products have been released in recent years, but there is no way to know the size of the particles, distribution etc. Nono polish, what does that mean. Is this sub micron particles as advertised.
Some of the all in one products are design to brake down, meaning they start coarse and brake down into smaller particles. 2-3 in one product will definitely not be the best choice.
I was considering trying this so-called nano polish i have in the garage just for fun.
I would assume the particle distribution in this is better then the typical green stuff, but i am not sure how well it works on metal. This particular one is water soluble.
It cuts German car paint quite well, even if you use it by hand.
New car clear coat is really thin and hard (if you disregard Tesla's gummy paint
these are around 80-150 micron thick, including base coat. The usable range of clear coat you can remove might not be more then 30-50 microns at best. So to avoid taking off to much clear coat the modern compounds and polishes need to be quite fine.I also have some nano glass polish. I would assume this should be capable of cutting steel. This is not a diminishing abrasive, so it should be quite fine.
These detailing geeks take this stuff really seriously. There might be some products that actually can be used for other applications. Some even inspect their paint with a microscope. Sound familiar
Maybe it is just marketing bs. More or less the same stuff in different rapping in some new wonder fluid
Years ago, I went on an extensive pasted strop quest, stropping on any and all abrasives on a variety of substrate, made hundreds of strops.
After hundreds of “paste” nothing equaled Chrome, Cerium and Ferrous Oxides except CBN and quality Nano Grit Diamonds.
You may find a polish or compound, but they do not tell you what is in them. Honestly once I found that Jnats could rival Arks there was no need for paste.
For experimenting with paste, cardboard, inside of cereal or shirt boxes or Pellon are cheap and easy to make substrates.
Most aggressive micro grit paste are super aggressive, and few steels can handle the aggressiveness long term.
Paste can hide a lot of honing sins, though.
After hundreds of “paste” nothing equaled Chrome, Cerium and Ferrous Oxides except CBN and quality Nano Grit Diamonds.
You may find a polish or compound, but they do not tell you what is in them. Honestly once I found that Jnats could rival Arks there was no need for paste.
For experimenting with paste, cardboard, inside of cereal or shirt boxes or Pellon are cheap and easy to make substrates.
Most aggressive micro grit paste are super aggressive, and few steels can handle the aggressiveness long term.
Paste can hide a lot of honing sins, though.
I just tried a diluted spray application on a denim strop. Not much happened to the edge with this particular polish. Just for fun i sprayed some on my Arkensas stone. It almost felt like a jnat with slurry. This resulted in a really nice polished bevel. I do suspect it damaged the apex, as most synthetic slurry does. If the abrasive particles are friable it might work. To much free time lately
- Thread starter
- #6
my edges are comfortable with them
That is the most important thing. No rules.
And that is the thing, no two of us have the exact skin type, sensitivity, beard thickness or density, exact same razor, grind or honing stone progression and level of technique.
I hone razors for guys that come in with trashed edges that guys swear they shaved with the day they put it in the mail. So “Comfortable edge” is a relative term.
No matter what stone or paste you use, a year from now your edges will be infinitely better than they are now, especially if you are stropping on paste. Stropping itself can take a year to master and get to the point where you are consistently improving an edge with each stroke.
If you are happy with your edges that is all that matters.
I hone razors for guys that come in with trashed edges that guys swear they shaved with the day they put it in the mail. So “Comfortable edge” is a relative term.
No matter what stone or paste you use, a year from now your edges will be infinitely better than they are now, especially if you are stropping on paste. Stropping itself can take a year to master and get to the point where you are consistently improving an edge with each stroke.
If you are happy with your edges that is all that matters.
Edges stropped on hanging pasted fabric, regardless of how effective the compound is will at some point reach an equilibrium in sharpness. At this point one should be able to keep this level of sharpness a really long time. The razor only needs to be sharp and keen enough to cut that persons particular beard with a minimum of effort and comfort. A much sharper blade will not give a much closer shave, unless you count removing a layer of skin a closer shave.
For me this is about having fun. The more people that get into this the better. There is allot of good shoulders to stand on if a different approach to a different type of edge is needed at some point. There is always something to learn from a fresh perspective, so continue sharing your experience.
If you want to pursue the pasted strop route, there is a good blog called the science of sharp, read the pasted strop part.
For me this is about having fun. The more people that get into this the better. There is allot of good shoulders to stand on if a different approach to a different type of edge is needed at some point. There is always something to learn from a fresh perspective, so continue sharing your experience.
If you want to pursue the pasted strop route, there is a good blog called the science of sharp, read the pasted strop part.
Similar threads
