Bringing an edge back to shave ready

[justino_14]

I want to start my honing journey pretty soon and I wanted to get a little information. Say a razor is properly honed by someone reputable and than the edge begins to become uncomfortable, what is the best beginner stone to go to, a 12k? Or would an 8k be more versatile? Say a 12k didn't bring the edge back, would the next step to go to an 8k or would one need to set the bevel again? Does it help any to start with an 8k and move to the 12k to resharpen an edge?

Also I really don't like the feel of CrOx on balsa, is a different way to use CrOx just as good, like leather or cotton/linen? I know a lot of people don't even use CrOx, should I even worry about it?

 

[bluesman 7]

Personally I would always use at least an 8k and a 12k Naniwa, though you could probably get by with either. A lot of people have only a 12k Naniwa. It really depends on how the razor in question is degrading. Sometimes chipping is a problem and it is best to go to a 5k or 3k to start.

 

[Lmarkow]

When stropping isn't enough, and if they're straight, I'll use the 12k bluesman mentioned.

 

[SliceOfLife]

Thuri's are very easy to use, but pricy.

Frictionite 00's are also very easy to use, but pricy.

Coticules are easy to touch up on, not so pricy.

Almost all modern synthetic whetstones of decent quality will be easy to use, but their edges can be a bit bitey compared to the above options (They seem to leave an edge that tends to grab at skin a bit more).


If I were recommending a starter "touch up" stone. I'd say Thuri if you can get one for a price that's acceptable to you, otherwise Coticule.

There are tons of other options, of course, but they are less ideal for beginners in my opinion. (Harder to find, more difficult to use, less consistent, etc)

I haven't used chromox except by accident (purchased used strops with it on the linen), or when doing testing of various sorts for nearly eight years now. It's certainly not necessary. If you don't like a chromox on balsa edge, you probably won't like a chromox on a strop edge either.

 

[Brianskeet]

^ +1 What he said.

 

[raccoonandbrush]

I use a Coticule for finishing and touch ups. Just plain water, x-strokes, BOOM! You're done! Naniwa Super Stone 12K works great too. I just prefer an edge from a Coticule.

 

[Gamma]

If you want to touch up an edge that was honed by someone else, the best option would be to use the same finisher that was used to finish the razor in the first place.
In other words - if you got a Jnat edge from Nelson, and you put some wear on it...
then touching it up on a Thuri isn't going to revive the Jnat edge to where it was when it was honed by Nelson.

An easy path to edge restoration - TI white paste does a good job, way better than Crox IMO.

 

[justino_14]

If you want to touch up an edge that was honed by someone else, the best option would be to use the same finisher that was used to finish the razor in the first place.
In other words - if you got a Jnat edge from Nelson, and you put some wear on it...
then touching it up on a Thuri isn't going to revive the Jnat edge to where it was when it was honed by Nelson.

An easy path to edge restoration - TI white paste does a good job, way better than Crox IMO.

Is that the one in the tube? What material do you put it on?

 

[Gamma]

Is that the one in the tube? What material do you put it on?

There's a white paste made by Dovo that comes in a small metallic tube that isn't for sharpening.
The TI white paste comes in a larger hard plastic tube, and it's formed like a waxy crayon.

I actually don't use it anymore - I've moved onto another compound, but that doesn't mean TI white isn't good - it is quite good.
Someone may say that using a paste on a linen strop will convex the bevel. Pfft....
Factually - I've been tuning up a blade with a pasted strop for a long while now and thus far my bevel and edge are just fine.

 

[Legion]

What is the honing compound in the TI white paste?

 

[Jnatcat]

Tons of options, I don't use film but lots out there do and from my understanding it's fairly inexpensive and as stated a coticule is a good choice if you don't want to spend alot you could get an inexpensive Bout from Jarrod at TSS, I have shaved off an 8K and for me it's not comfortable enough.

 

[gary haywood]

ti rasoir pate is very effective , you must draw it on cotton hanging g strop. As gamma recommended I would also recommend it's simple to use and very effective.

 

[Slash McCoy]

Assuming there is nothing but normal usage wear on the edge, all you need is a finisher, yeah. A 12k Naniwa is real easy to use. Like any other stone, you need to lap it when you get it, and periodically thereafter. 1u lapping film, plain back, is a good option and also real easy to get a stunning sharp edge, very consistently. Some guys like a coticule. The nice thing about a coti for just finishing is you can hone under running water and not mess with slurry which is where the artistry comes in. Water-only coti honing is just as simple as Naniwa honing, no mystery or incantations needed. I do favor the use of lather on coti, though, to get the max out of the stone. YMMV. And remember to lap the stone. I favor big rocks, myself, finding them so much easier to use with consistent results. Smaller ones, especially bouts, are much cheaper though.

Another option is diamond paste on lapped balsa. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/473580-How-To-Use-a-Pasted-Balsa-Strop for the how-to. Cut corners and you won't get best possible results so read carefully and don't freestyle it until you have some experience with this method. Do it wrong and its just meh. For bringing back a dull edge use 1u and then progress to .1u. For everyday edge maintenance so the edge never gets dull in the first place, .1u is all you need if you use enough laps.

I for one have tried pastes on hanging strops and dont care for them nor advocate the practice. You always end up having to go back to a hone sooner or later. I believe there IS some rounding of the apex, just not enough to see. The good news is a small amount of this can actually be beneficial, creating a very kind and gentle edge that many guys like. I guess I am just more into the light saber type edges, me. For that, you want a solid, flat substrate and minimal amount of abrasive, worked into the substrate, so there is no slurry effect. Do it like you feel it.

 

[justino_14]

Another option is diamond paste on lapped balsa. http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/473580-How-To-Use-a-Pasted-Balsa-Strop for the how-to. Cut corners and you won't get best possible results so read carefully and don't freestyle it until you have some experience with this method. Do it wrong and its just meh. For bringing back a dull edge use 1u and then progress to .1u. For everyday edge maintenance so the edge never gets dull in the first place, .1u is all you need if you use enough laps.

Thanks for all the info. I wish you had a video on this method, I feel like I would mess something up without seeing how it's done.

Do you think diamond spray on felt board strop would work?

 

[Slash McCoy]

Thanks for all the info. I wish you had a video on this method, I feel like I would mess something up without seeing how it's done.

Do you think diamond spray on felt board strop would work?

Do I think spray on felt wil work? Probably. Do I think it will work as well as paste rubbed well into lapped balsa? In a word, no. The balsa will be a flatter surface and will retain the abrasive well. The balsa grain allows optimum embedding of the abrasive particles, for a shallower scratch pattern and no slurry effect. IME, anyway.