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Breathing life back into a Brass Old Timer

Well there is still lot of work to be done as me and my Dad are going to fill in the top and bottom cracks. Then I plan on trying to make the case come back to life. Tape has really removed lots of dust and such but still need to spend more time on it. Here are some before and after cleanings, still need to polish it believe it or not :w00t:

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The cleaning method was I first gave it a bath in some hot water with some dish soap and scrubbed with a tooth brush, in all honesty didn't do much at all. However the nice soaking in boiling vinegar for about 3-4 minutes did!! Stunk up the kitchen so make sure to ventilate!!! But that is what really got the grime and muck off the metal.

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I still can't believe how nice it looks and I still have not polished it :w00t:. Once we fix the cracks and I polish again the next plan is to have her dipped in gold. I will post more pictures once she is finished.
 
Here is the email from my Dad. Since I live in NM and he lives in CA it's going to take time to finish. Slowly but surly as they say...

Dad Wrote:
I have given this task considerable thought. As I said, I will band the tube, then apply this paste solder to the inside of the tube and heat it up to seal the cracks first. This will also tin the inside of the tube to allow a good solder joint when the tube ends are inserted. Then I will insert one tube end soldering and cooling that end before doing the opposite end. My thought is just to heat it and allow the paste to do the soldering job, so as not to have any excess solder in the repaired areas. I have used this type of paste in the past but never to do the entire soldering job. The reason is that everything I ever worked on had to hold pressure. That is not the case here as we are only repairing and restoring a precision instrument. Here are the specs on the paste:

Paste Solder 50/50 TIN/Lead 356 to 421 Degree F Melting Range, 1/2 lb Size. To solder difficult-to-reach joints this paste solder is the perfect alternative to regular solder and flux. Made of a finely powdered solder combined with a flux paste, you simply apply a thin coat of paste to the surfaces you want joined, then heat, and wipe with a damp cloth. Paste Solder 50/50 Tin/Lead 356 to 421 Degree F Melting Range, 1/2 lb Size. 50/50 tin/lead handles copper, brass, zinc, steel, and bronze.

I have also decided to get a smaller torch because the handle repair appears to be more delicate work. Plus this torch will also do heat shrink and it has several tips for other applications.

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Combination Torch— Like the Bench-Top torch, it has a wide, stable base for hands-free use and a slide lock for continuous hands-free use. Plus, it has tips for applications that require heat without an exposed flame. Includes a solder tip (maximum temperature is 752° F) and a heat tip (maximum temperature is 932° F)


Dad is a master plumber so he has soldered and welded for years and years.
 
Joey:

Great job so far. :thumbup: You are lucky to have a Dad who is skilled in these things. Please share your "after" photos with us. You know how we love razor porn around here. :lol:

Don
 
Nice clean up - I used to have a raozr like that but it never looked that good!
I'm anxious to see the finished result. They really are fun razors to use and they're even more fun when they're all spiffed up and polished!
 
By the way, those cracks are due to lesser quality metals being available during/after the First World War. Old Type handles that are going to crack did so decades ago, and they've long since stabilized.

Fill it in if you want to, but don't think you have to. That razor has been giving quality shaves for nearly century in that very condition.
 
I scored one a while ago - part of a small lot of old razors from ebay. It had two keepers - the old type (with no cracks) and a 1948-50 super speed. The old brownie can hold it's own against any razor I've tried. Love it.
 
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