After getting some great input and advice from my “favorite bottom shelf bourbon” post (see it here http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/456451-Favorite-Bottom-Shelf-Bourbon ), I decided go straight to the heart of the matter and do my own head to head tasting. Purely in the interest of science, of course. Since it’s my tasting, I get to set the rules for qualification. As arbitrary as they might be, here they are:
Bourbon Only. I’d also include the fellows from Tennessee (as they’re really bourbon in every respect but name), but neither George nor Jack have any product on Oregon shelves that comes in below my price threshold. So mostly this rule means no blends like Beam’s Eight Star, Kessler, Ten High, etc.
Maximum price--$14/750. I know handles often represent a better deal, but I decided to default to the price of a 750 due to the limited availability (to me) of brands in the 1.75 format. Going above the $15 mark opens the field considerably, so I settled on the $14 cap, both to match my goal of finding something at a modest price point, and also to keep the sample size manageable. Note that these are Oregon prices, which are fixed statewide by the Oregon Liquor Control Commission. Unless you’re a fellow Oregonian, your mileage, of course, will vary.
Generally available at my local liquor store (or one within reasonable proximity). Oregon is a control state, so retail sales are limited to the state licensed outlets, which are few and far between. Plus, I live in a small town. Because it is a tourist town, the selection at our one and only local store is decent, but still not comprehensive. I know this limitation is strictly personal, but it’s my tasting, and I’m doing this to find some cheap bourbon I like and can also actually get, so that’s the deal. This eliminates some potentially worthy options like Very Old Barton, JTS Brown, JW Dant, Old Crow Reserve, Yellowstone, and Cabin Still, which are either unavailable, or have limited and therefore inconvenient availability to me. And this is all about me
. I’m happy for you guys that have better selection and prices, but I’ll just have to take your word for it.
Finally, one brand otherwise meeting my criteria, Old Crow, was not included simply because I already know I don’t like it. Again, this is partly just to cut the roster at the outset, but also so I don’t have to bring myself to buy a bottle of whiskey I know I don’t want. The result is no Beam products in the mix as JB White is too expensive. I would have included OC Reserve as it is within my price limit (and I have never tasted it), but it is not currently available in Oregon.
So here are the contenders:
Ancient Age, 80 proof (Buffalo Trace) $12
Benchmark, 80 proof (Buffalo trace) $13
Early Times*, 80 proof (Brown-Forman) $12
Evan Williams Green, 80 proof (Heaven Hill) $12
Evan Williams Black, 86 proof (Heaven Hill) $14
Ezra Brooks, 90 proof (Heaven Hill for Luxco) $14
Henry McKenna, 80 proof (Heaven Hill) $12
Old Taylor, 80 proof (Sazerac) $10.50
* Okay, I know, not technically bourbon, which violates my first rule of “bourbon only”. But ET is bourbon in every respect except for being partially aged in used cooperage. At least it’s not a blend. And I wanted a B-F product in the lineup, but Old Forester, and even the ET 354 bottling, are too expensive in Oregon. So, I’m making an exception. Did I mention that this my tasting, so I get to make the rules (and the exceptions)?
So much for the rules; here’s the disclaimer: This is not a scientific tasting. I’m looking for bourbon that tastes good to me, so this is totally subjective. For the basic ratings the whiskies were tasted neat. The whiskies were not tasted blind, because I want to know what I’m drinking. Yes, I know that labels and therefore expectations may influence perceptions, but knowing what’s in my glass is just the way I roll. Also, I’m not an expert whiskey taster. I can tell one from another, and I know what I like. I’m not that great at picking out, let alone describing, a lot of detail, so there won’t be any in depth descriptions of different flavor elements. If you want that, check out Ralfy. I’ll give you my general impressions and my preferences. Also, I should note that SWMBO participated in the tastings and we compared notes. We mostly (but not entirely) agreed. Though you have to love and respect a woman who digs bourbon (and I do), the final results are all on me. So here we go:
Ancient Age, 80 proof, 3 years old, (Buffalo Trace), $12
Despite being an old school label, I’d never tasted AA, except perhaps as a well bourbon that I wasn’t aware of. To me it’s an oddly off-tasting bourbon. The nose is mostly volatile alcohol with just a few sweet notes. The palate is much the same, thin, with corn sweetness but dominated by a sort of medicinal quality. Some of that cleared with a few more minutes in the glass, but still not a pleasant sipper. No.
Benchmark, 80 proof, 3 years old, (Buffalo trace), $13
This is supposedly Buffalo Trace’s “B”, i.e. higher rye, mashbill, as opposed to AA, which is the “A”, lower rye recipe. For two bourbons that come from the same producer and are the same stated age, there is a world of difference. BM has a lot of flavor for a young whiskey, and a definite rye spice note, if that is your thing. Not the smoothest or most balanced, but a lot of character and flavor at this price point. Overall, surprisingly good for the proof and price point.
Early Times, 80 proof, NAS (but reportedly 3 years), (Brown-Forman), $12
I’ve also never before (knowingly) tasted ET. The nose is sweet corn and wood and quite interesting. Unfortunately, this doesn’t carry through to the palate, where ET is thin and watery without much character. Nothing really offensive or off-putting, but not much there. Meh.
Evan Williams Green, 80 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill),$12
The little brother of ubiquitous EW Black, this was also a first taste for me. The nose on this was faint and it delivered a similarly light flavor profile. This one is not big or very intense, but the flavors are smooth and balanced, albeit light, with no hint of harshness or off flavors. Good.
Evan Williams Black, 86 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill), $14
Fairly faint on the nose, but delivers bigger, darker flavors than any of the others. Tastes the most like an older (or at least more mature) bourbon. Smooth and balanced like the EW Green, but with more flavor and character. Not complex, but it touches all the bases for bourbon.
Ezra Brooks, 90 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill for Luxco) $14
The highest proof entry, EB has a thicker, more viscous mouthfeel than any of the others. It tastes slightly less mature than EW Black, but still quite good, with balanced flavors and good intensity. EB is reportedly contract distilled by Heaven Hill, and the "house style" similarities are pretty evident. Very good.
Henry McKenna, 80 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill), $12
This one has a sweet smell with some hints of green wood. The flavor is likewise dominated by sweetness, delivered in a light profile. Smooth, well balanced and pleasant, though not very intense. Good.
Old Taylor, 80 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Sazerac), $10.50
My first taste of Old Taylor, and it wasn’t impressive. The nose is light, with grain and green wood hints. The palate is similarly light, to the point of being weak and somewhat watery. More green/grain hints as well. Gone in a flash. It’s hard to believe this is four year old whiskey. Not terrible or offensive, but weak overall.
So here’s my final placings:
1. Evan Williams Black
The best of the bunch for me. EW Black tastes the most like “real” bourbon in terms of the darker, sweet, barrel imparted flavors so characteristic of more mature whiskey. As many other reviewers have noted, this whiskey can hold its own with a lot of other bourbons in higher price categories. EW Black is a bit of a fudge on my price point, as it only sells for $14 in Oregon when it’s “on sale” (which it is currently); otherwise it is typically $16.
2. Ezra Brooks; Benchmark (tie)
These both showed very well and either would be an excellent choice for a value pour. I would be happy with either (or both!) when EW Black isn’t on sale. EB gets a nod for being 90 proof and displaying smooth, if not super intense, flavors, while Benchmark earns its spot with a level of flavor intensity well above the other 80 proof entries. EB is often on sale here in Oregon for $12 and at that price point probably takes the top value spot on the list.
3. Henry McKenna; Evan Williams Green (tie)
These are both well-made bourbons, but a bit light in flavor when compared to the top three. While any of the top three are passable to sip neat, for me the HM and EW Green are moving into mixer territory. But by that I don’t necessarily mean Coke or ginger ale, as either would be fine in Old Fashioneds or other bourbon-centric drinks.
4. Early Times
At first blush, ET seemed to show some promise, but it just turned out to be too weak and watery on the palate to make the grade. It does make a passable Old Fashioned, but with other, better choices in this price range, I’ll pass.
5. Old Taylor
Something of a curiosity, OT takes the spot for the cheapest bourbon on the list, but perhaps in this case you get what you pay for. This tastes light, green and immature. It’s not possessed of any truly offensive character, but it seems likely that it would disappear in most cocktails. I haven’t given it a fair trial in that role, but I’m sure I will as, while I won’t seek this one out, I won’t pour it down the drain, either.
6. Ancient Age
This is really the only bottle in the bunch that I probably won’t drink. I have found the AAA 10 Star to be a pretty nice pour, so I was anticipating better from its little brother; perhaps a chip off the old block. But alas, that just wasn’t the case for me. I must say, AA is a disappointing entry level effort from Buffalo Trace, whose products I generally otherwise like.
So there you have it. In my “Favorite Bottom Shelf Bourbon” post, EW Black got the most votes and apparently for good reason. Turns out, many of you guys know what you’re talking about. It's no real surprise that the higher proof bourbons (EW Black and EB) showed better than their weaker cousins, though Benchmark was right in there with a surprising amount of flavor for an 80 proofer. Finally, I seem to have a preference for the Heaven Hill juice, at least at the budget level. Their offerings rolled over the competition, with only BT’s Benchmark managing to measure up among the HH bottlings that swept the other four top places. The Brown-Forman and other BT/Sazerac entries lagged far behind, to my palate.
Bourbon Only. I’d also include the fellows from Tennessee (as they’re really bourbon in every respect but name), but neither George nor Jack have any product on Oregon shelves that comes in below my price threshold. So mostly this rule means no blends like Beam’s Eight Star, Kessler, Ten High, etc.
Maximum price--$14/750. I know handles often represent a better deal, but I decided to default to the price of a 750 due to the limited availability (to me) of brands in the 1.75 format. Going above the $15 mark opens the field considerably, so I settled on the $14 cap, both to match my goal of finding something at a modest price point, and also to keep the sample size manageable. Note that these are Oregon prices, which are fixed statewide by the Oregon Liquor Control Commission. Unless you’re a fellow Oregonian, your mileage, of course, will vary.
Generally available at my local liquor store (or one within reasonable proximity). Oregon is a control state, so retail sales are limited to the state licensed outlets, which are few and far between. Plus, I live in a small town. Because it is a tourist town, the selection at our one and only local store is decent, but still not comprehensive. I know this limitation is strictly personal, but it’s my tasting, and I’m doing this to find some cheap bourbon I like and can also actually get, so that’s the deal. This eliminates some potentially worthy options like Very Old Barton, JTS Brown, JW Dant, Old Crow Reserve, Yellowstone, and Cabin Still, which are either unavailable, or have limited and therefore inconvenient availability to me. And this is all about me
. I’m happy for you guys that have better selection and prices, but I’ll just have to take your word for it.Finally, one brand otherwise meeting my criteria, Old Crow, was not included simply because I already know I don’t like it. Again, this is partly just to cut the roster at the outset, but also so I don’t have to bring myself to buy a bottle of whiskey I know I don’t want. The result is no Beam products in the mix as JB White is too expensive. I would have included OC Reserve as it is within my price limit (and I have never tasted it), but it is not currently available in Oregon.
So here are the contenders:
Ancient Age, 80 proof (Buffalo Trace) $12
Benchmark, 80 proof (Buffalo trace) $13
Early Times*, 80 proof (Brown-Forman) $12
Evan Williams Green, 80 proof (Heaven Hill) $12
Evan Williams Black, 86 proof (Heaven Hill) $14
Ezra Brooks, 90 proof (Heaven Hill for Luxco) $14
Henry McKenna, 80 proof (Heaven Hill) $12
Old Taylor, 80 proof (Sazerac) $10.50
* Okay, I know, not technically bourbon, which violates my first rule of “bourbon only”. But ET is bourbon in every respect except for being partially aged in used cooperage. At least it’s not a blend. And I wanted a B-F product in the lineup, but Old Forester, and even the ET 354 bottling, are too expensive in Oregon. So, I’m making an exception. Did I mention that this my tasting, so I get to make the rules (and the exceptions)?
So much for the rules; here’s the disclaimer: This is not a scientific tasting. I’m looking for bourbon that tastes good to me, so this is totally subjective. For the basic ratings the whiskies were tasted neat. The whiskies were not tasted blind, because I want to know what I’m drinking. Yes, I know that labels and therefore expectations may influence perceptions, but knowing what’s in my glass is just the way I roll. Also, I’m not an expert whiskey taster. I can tell one from another, and I know what I like. I’m not that great at picking out, let alone describing, a lot of detail, so there won’t be any in depth descriptions of different flavor elements. If you want that, check out Ralfy. I’ll give you my general impressions and my preferences. Also, I should note that SWMBO participated in the tastings and we compared notes. We mostly (but not entirely) agreed. Though you have to love and respect a woman who digs bourbon (and I do), the final results are all on me. So here we go:
Ancient Age, 80 proof, 3 years old, (Buffalo Trace), $12
Despite being an old school label, I’d never tasted AA, except perhaps as a well bourbon that I wasn’t aware of. To me it’s an oddly off-tasting bourbon. The nose is mostly volatile alcohol with just a few sweet notes. The palate is much the same, thin, with corn sweetness but dominated by a sort of medicinal quality. Some of that cleared with a few more minutes in the glass, but still not a pleasant sipper. No.
Benchmark, 80 proof, 3 years old, (Buffalo trace), $13
This is supposedly Buffalo Trace’s “B”, i.e. higher rye, mashbill, as opposed to AA, which is the “A”, lower rye recipe. For two bourbons that come from the same producer and are the same stated age, there is a world of difference. BM has a lot of flavor for a young whiskey, and a definite rye spice note, if that is your thing. Not the smoothest or most balanced, but a lot of character and flavor at this price point. Overall, surprisingly good for the proof and price point.
Early Times, 80 proof, NAS (but reportedly 3 years), (Brown-Forman), $12
I’ve also never before (knowingly) tasted ET. The nose is sweet corn and wood and quite interesting. Unfortunately, this doesn’t carry through to the palate, where ET is thin and watery without much character. Nothing really offensive or off-putting, but not much there. Meh.
Evan Williams Green, 80 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill),$12
The little brother of ubiquitous EW Black, this was also a first taste for me. The nose on this was faint and it delivered a similarly light flavor profile. This one is not big or very intense, but the flavors are smooth and balanced, albeit light, with no hint of harshness or off flavors. Good.
Evan Williams Black, 86 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill), $14
Fairly faint on the nose, but delivers bigger, darker flavors than any of the others. Tastes the most like an older (or at least more mature) bourbon. Smooth and balanced like the EW Green, but with more flavor and character. Not complex, but it touches all the bases for bourbon.
Ezra Brooks, 90 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill for Luxco) $14
The highest proof entry, EB has a thicker, more viscous mouthfeel than any of the others. It tastes slightly less mature than EW Black, but still quite good, with balanced flavors and good intensity. EB is reportedly contract distilled by Heaven Hill, and the "house style" similarities are pretty evident. Very good.
Henry McKenna, 80 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Heaven Hill), $12
This one has a sweet smell with some hints of green wood. The flavor is likewise dominated by sweetness, delivered in a light profile. Smooth, well balanced and pleasant, though not very intense. Good.
Old Taylor, 80 proof, NAS (but labeled “straight”, so presumably 4 years), (Sazerac), $10.50
My first taste of Old Taylor, and it wasn’t impressive. The nose is light, with grain and green wood hints. The palate is similarly light, to the point of being weak and somewhat watery. More green/grain hints as well. Gone in a flash. It’s hard to believe this is four year old whiskey. Not terrible or offensive, but weak overall.
So here’s my final placings:
1. Evan Williams Black
The best of the bunch for me. EW Black tastes the most like “real” bourbon in terms of the darker, sweet, barrel imparted flavors so characteristic of more mature whiskey. As many other reviewers have noted, this whiskey can hold its own with a lot of other bourbons in higher price categories. EW Black is a bit of a fudge on my price point, as it only sells for $14 in Oregon when it’s “on sale” (which it is currently); otherwise it is typically $16.
2. Ezra Brooks; Benchmark (tie)
These both showed very well and either would be an excellent choice for a value pour. I would be happy with either (or both!) when EW Black isn’t on sale. EB gets a nod for being 90 proof and displaying smooth, if not super intense, flavors, while Benchmark earns its spot with a level of flavor intensity well above the other 80 proof entries. EB is often on sale here in Oregon for $12 and at that price point probably takes the top value spot on the list.
3. Henry McKenna; Evan Williams Green (tie)
These are both well-made bourbons, but a bit light in flavor when compared to the top three. While any of the top three are passable to sip neat, for me the HM and EW Green are moving into mixer territory. But by that I don’t necessarily mean Coke or ginger ale, as either would be fine in Old Fashioneds or other bourbon-centric drinks.
4. Early Times
At first blush, ET seemed to show some promise, but it just turned out to be too weak and watery on the palate to make the grade. It does make a passable Old Fashioned, but with other, better choices in this price range, I’ll pass.
5. Old Taylor
Something of a curiosity, OT takes the spot for the cheapest bourbon on the list, but perhaps in this case you get what you pay for. This tastes light, green and immature. It’s not possessed of any truly offensive character, but it seems likely that it would disappear in most cocktails. I haven’t given it a fair trial in that role, but I’m sure I will as, while I won’t seek this one out, I won’t pour it down the drain, either.
6. Ancient Age
This is really the only bottle in the bunch that I probably won’t drink. I have found the AAA 10 Star to be a pretty nice pour, so I was anticipating better from its little brother; perhaps a chip off the old block. But alas, that just wasn’t the case for me. I must say, AA is a disappointing entry level effort from Buffalo Trace, whose products I generally otherwise like.
So there you have it. In my “Favorite Bottom Shelf Bourbon” post, EW Black got the most votes and apparently for good reason. Turns out, many of you guys know what you’re talking about. It's no real surprise that the higher proof bourbons (EW Black and EB) showed better than their weaker cousins, though Benchmark was right in there with a surprising amount of flavor for an 80 proofer. Finally, I seem to have a preference for the Heaven Hill juice, at least at the budget level. Their offerings rolled over the competition, with only BT’s Benchmark managing to measure up among the HH bottlings that swept the other four top places. The Brown-Forman and other BT/Sazerac entries lagged far behind, to my palate.
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