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Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)

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The Instigator
o_O Man, today I can't get a third coat on - it's staying wet.

Even in the sun!

And the kitchen knives - they got one-coated and they're still wet.


AA
 
As for you putting used rags in the old paint can and sealing, no problem with that. You limit the available oxygen and even though it will oxidize some, there is most likely not enough oxygen there to promote combustion. Remember for fire you need oxygen,, fuel and heat. Slow oxidation can make heat build up but cut off the oxygen to fuel and no fire.

Seems like it would work as long as the can stays sealed. It does make me wonder whether or not it's just postponing the oxidation/fire risk though. If the seal gets broken after being squished by the garbage truck, and oxygen is reintroduced, then what? Wouldn't it be safer to dry it out before disposing of it?

I used to install industrial conveyor belts, and sometimes my crew would get called in to replace conveyor belts on the tipping floors of garbage incinerating power plants. We'd usually get the call after an explosion or fire to replace the belts. Those were my least favorite jobs. 🤢
 
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shoelessjoe

"I took out a Chihuahua!"
Stopped using BLO years ago in favor of Cold-Pressed linseed oil.

My understanding is that BLO is refined with metallic additives which, while they do decrease drying times, also cause BLO to yellow over time.

Conversely, unrefined/unmolested C-PLO, retaining its’ fatty acids, not only renders C-P non-yellowing, but it (acids) also creates the reddish patina found on WW2 Garands, Carbines, etc., etc.
 
I have used Lin-speed and had good results. I still prefer BLO, in very thin coats. Too thick and it oxidizes or polymerizes on the surface slowing the process underneath. Lin-speed is more of a thinned varnish type product than one giving a true oil finish. Recently I have tried pure tung oil, not a varnish product like Formby's which is not pure tung oil

As for you putting used rags in the old paint can and sealing, no problem with that. You limit the available oxygen and even though it will oxidize some, there is most likely not enough oxygen there to promote combustion. Remember for fire you need oxygen,, fuel and heat. Slow oxidation can make heat build up but cut off the oxygen to fuel and no fire.
Pure Tung oil was an amazing finish when I have tried it……..but even more tedious and slower drying than blo.

I often use danish oil for speed with tung and varnish in it. Not sure I’d use it on a stock though.
 
o_O Man, today I can't get a third coat on - it's staying wet.

Even in the sun!

And the kitchen knives - they got one-coated and they're still wet.


AA
That is the rub with oils. Once you get past the point where it soaks in, it gets slower drying. Give it a week before handling. 2 if you are planning on sanding it or scuffing it with steel wool. 3-4 before polishing. No joke…
 
Some spots won't dry!

This stuff would try the patience of a saint ...


AA
You probably put a bit too much on. It’s like seasoning cast iron. Rub it on and wipe excess off….

Also, it’s very temperature dependent. In cool weather it won’t harden.
 

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The Instigator
You probably put a bit too much on. It’s like seasoning cast iron. Rub it on and wipe excess off….

Also, it’s very temperature dependent. In cool weather it won’t harden.

I got impatient, needed my rifle operational. Thought I could remove sticky BLO with a bit of alcohol, but when it paled the wood, I immediately reached for the Ballistol.

The light of day! 🌟 Stickiness went away, stock glowed twice as bright. Exactly the finish I wanted all along. The two oils seem to work together perfectly...

AA
 
I got impatient, needed my rifle operational. Thought I could remove sticky BLO with a bit of alcohol, but when it paled the wood, I immediately reached for the Ballistol.

The light of day! 🌟 Stickiness went away, stock glowed twice as bright. Exactly the finish I wanted all along. The two oils seem to work together perfectly...

AA
Very nice! Good to know.
 
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