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Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
Based on what you described, you've probably got nothing to worry about. It's when you ball up rags and the heat can build in an insulated space where you really get into trouble. That's my understanding anyway.

Someone please do correct me if I'm wrong, but I've never heard of a workpiece catching on fire.

I just leave them outside to dry or toss them in the woodstove, the latter being the foolproof method. 😋

+1 Spontaneous combustion fires I have responded to over the years, have all been, dirty oil rags tossed and left in metal storage bins or discarded in trash cans. I posted a lengthy post not too long back about a friends old .22 I refurbished. I used BLO on that stock straight from the can.

I spread a thin layer of BLO on the entire stock in the garage with a rag and let it sit for a few hours and then came back and wiped off the excess oil, letting it dry for 24 hours before applying another coat. I did this 6 times over 6 days, allowing the stock to sit on my work bench with a slow fan circulating over the stock.

After each time, I would take the old rag / rags, I used each day to apply and wipe off the BLO, to the kitchen sink and washed each out each day after I was finished with dish soap and warm water because I was worried about spontaneous combustion.

I threw each one in the trash after using and washing. Surely the dish soap and water broke down the BLO enough to throw away?
 

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The Instigator
Glad I did this now. Put the pieces in the sun later, may recoat manana. But it already looks much better.

AA
 
BLO is what is called a drying oil, along with plain linseed oil. It is the base for many paint products, varnish and enamels, the old vashioned kind, not the relatively newer water based types.

Being a drying oil, it dries by a process called oxidation, that is it reacts with oxygen in the air to slowly harden. In that process it creates heat. The problem is if you place a large number of rags/paper towels wit a moderate amount of oil in them in an open container or pile, the heat will be contained and the pile "might" and has often reached the combustion point where it will burst into flame.

Best prevention is not to place the used rags in a container indoors, or wet thoroughly with good old water, or like said earlier hang outside to dry and harden. One small patch, or a q tip with BLO is not going to cause a fire, just not enough mass to create the heat required. I often lay a used patch on the can top of the BLO I am using and have never in about 60 years had a problem.

Most of the time I just get a dab of oil on my fingertips and rub it into the stock I am working on, I can spread thinner and smoother and no rag to worry about.
 

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The Instigator
More good info! Thanks.

Decided to give more coats. After second coat on gun parts, had leftover alky-BLO, so did the kitchen knives... LotH will be pleased, nonplussed or will moan about them never being sharp enough. Taking bets! 🤣 Me on third.

🤔 A third coat will be enough, I think.


AA
 
Not BLO, but I have has some good success with Renaissance Wax from England.

Use it on wood stocks, metal, and polymer. Everything comes out great. Container will likely outlast me as well ...
 
More good info! Thanks.

Decided to give more coats. After second coat on gun parts, had leftover alky-BLO, so did the kitchen knives... LotH will be pleased, nonplussed or will moan about them never being sharp enough. Taking bets! [emoji1787] Me on third.

[emoji848] A third coat will be enough, I think.


AA
If they are like my kitchen knives, she will complain that they are never sharp enough. [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
 

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The Instigator
If they are like my kitchen knives, she will complain that they are never sharp enough. [emoji16]

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

They are mild steel Chicago Cutlery, but we've had them for 25+ years... 🤔 Easily sharpened but easily dulled too. Last time I got them really sharp, she cut herself first use. Anyways.

I've used Ballistol on the knife handles but it never lasts. Let's see what BLO can do.


AA
 

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The Instigator
Not BLO, but I have has some good success with Renaissance Wax from England.

Use it on wood stocks, metal, and polymer. Everything comes out great. Container will likely outlast me as well ...

If I still had swords and axes on the wall... 🤔 But that has been many years.


AA
 
Not BLO, but I have has some good success with Renaissance Wax from England.

Use it on wood stocks, metal, and polymer. Everything comes out great. Container will likely outlast me as well ...

Renaissance wax is good, but it is not a finish itself. Oils like BLO, which stands for boiled linseed oils, plain linseed oil, or tung oils are drying oils. Initially they soak into wood, oxidize to a harder more durable product. It make several applications over days and or weeks to get a smooth surface finish. If you want gloss more coats and time are required. Boiled linseed oil is actually not boiled, but has chemical drying or oxidizing agents added.
I have a old British finishing forumla somewhere called Slackum oil which contains BLO, Turpentine, Venetian turpentine( which drys to a very high gloss, often used in equestrian events to polish horses hooves) and carnauba wax. Applied several times daily for a couple of days, wiping dry, then daily for several weeks then weekly for a while, Gives a beautiful satin to semi gloss finish, that is easily repairable as compared to things like Tru oil or Linspeed which are in reality fast drying varnish products.

Here is the forumla I used, came from doublegunshop.com forum

Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 gr
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers.

They also post another formula that uses old archaic terms and measures from old English.

One mentions adding a small amount of plaster of paris as a pore filler.
 

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The Instigator
So after a third BLO coat, can I just rub this down with paste wax and be done? 🤔 The gun is no masterpiece...


AA
 
So after a third BLO coat, can I just rub this down with paste wax and be done? 🤔 The gun is no masterpiece...


AA
See what it looks like. You can stop whenever you want. If you want a deep finish, you’ll need more than 3 coats. I would often use 10 or more over the course of a month or more. Sometimes I just use a couple. It needs time to dry between coats. Fancy finish with blo is a long, but easy process.
 
So after a third BLO coat, can I just rub this down with paste wax and be done? 🤔 The gun is no masterpiece...


AA


You can if you are happy with the finish.
If you ever want to refresh the look you will have to remove the wax with alcohol or a quick wipe with mineral spirits.
first.
Personally I would leave the oil as a finish. You can buff it a bit for a light shine or use 0000 steel wool for a satin sheen.
If it were furniture I would use a light coat of wax rubbed in well and buffed off.
It begs to be touched.
 

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The Instigator
There you go; that's what I want as wondering - is BLO a finished finish 🤔 in itself, or did it need a top coat. Do not want shiny poly...


AA
 
So after a third BLO coat, can I just rub this down with paste wax and be done? 🤔 The gun is no masterpiece...


AA
You have to be the judge. If you can still see the pores, like indentations where the oil has dried in and the surface is not absolutely smooth, then you can go with more. Always apply thin coats, and rub out with your hand, then let dry at least overnight. If it still looks grainy, wait a couple of days and break any gloss with something like 4/0 steel wool, and reapply, Bottom line is keep doing all this until it looks like you want it to look, no one else can tell you. One or two coats will seal the wood and leave a flat finish, basically giving some water protection, and a rather flat finish, you can bring up the level of smoothness you desire by multiple coats . A really good linseed oil finish will take weeks or months depending on how you want it to look.
 
I gave up on BLO because it stays sticky too long. I gave up on Tru Oil because I wasn't looking for a high luster finish. In the end, I settled on a product called Lin-speed oil (Yes, I spelled that right) and have used nothing else since. It produces the same finish as linseed and it will actually dry (no stickiness) overnight. I know nothing about flammability. I have always just stuffed any used rags in an old metal paint can and tapped the lid down.
While wet, you can wash it from your hands with nothing more than soap and warm water. Bill.
 
Renaissance wax is good, but it is not a finish itself. Oils like BLO, which stands for boiled linseed oils, plain linseed oil, or tung oils are drying oils. Initially they soak into wood, oxidize to a harder more durable product. It make several applications over days and or weeks to get a smooth surface finish. If you want gloss more coats and time are required. Boiled linseed oil is actually not boiled, but has chemical drying or oxidizing agents added.
I have a old British finishing forumla somewhere called Slackum oil which contains BLO, Turpentine, Venetian turpentine( which drys to a very high gloss, often used in equestrian events to polish horses hooves) and carnauba wax. Applied several times daily for a couple of days, wiping dry, then daily for several weeks then weekly for a while, Gives a beautiful satin to semi gloss finish, that is easily repairable as compared to things like Tru oil or Linspeed which are in reality fast drying varnish products.

Here is the forumla I used, came from doublegunshop.com forum

Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax – 200 gr
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers.

They also post another formula that uses old archaic terms and measures from old English.

One mentions adding a small amount of plaster of paris as a pore filler.

Good info. Thx for the post.
 
I gave up on BLO because it stays sticky too long. I gave up on Tru Oil because I wasn't looking for a high luster finish. In the end, I settled on a product called Lin-speed oil (Yes, I spelled that right) and have used nothing else since. It produces the same finish as linseed and it will actually dry (no stickiness) overnight. I know nothing about flammability. I have always just stuffed any used rags in an old metal paint can and tapped the lid down.
While wet, you can wash it from your hands with nothing more than soap and warm water. Bill.
I have used Lin-speed and had good results. I still prefer BLO, in very thin coats. Too thick and it oxidizes or polymerizes on the surface slowing the process underneath. Lin-speed is more of a thinned varnish type product than one giving a true oil finish. Recently I have tried pure tung oil, not a varnish product like Formby's which is not pure tung oil

As for you putting used rags in the old paint can and sealing, no problem with that. You limit the available oxygen and even though it will oxidize some, there is most likely not enough oxygen there to promote combustion. Remember for fire you need oxygen,, fuel and heat. Slow oxidation can make heat build up but cut off the oxygen to fuel and no fire.
 
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