Board vs Hanging Strops

[dunadan]

Are there any benefits to using a hanging strop vs a board strop? The stability of the board does make it easier compared to a hanging one. But I remember reading somewhere that you want a bit of give in the strop which you get with a hanging one.

 

[Darth Scandalous]

I like hanging strops for razors and fixed strops for knives and tools. I suppose its because a hanging strop makes it easier to keep it conformed to the spine and edge. At least for me. But board strops work fine for razors too, you just want to keep a light touch.

 

[H Brad Boonshaft]

The trick to proper stropping a razor is using the “Right” amount of pressure. With a paddle strop it is easy to use too much pressure, a hanging strop allows you to easily adjust/regulate pressure.

Back in the day when balsa pasted strops were the rage, and new stroppers were having edge issues, the pasted paddle strop was the problem.

Can you finish a razor on a paddle? Of course, but you must pay attention to the pressure. When you strop you put pressure on the edge and flex the edge, too much flex and the edge begins to break, crack, microchip.

Add paste and one can compound the issue.

Buy a quality strop, preferably one with replaceable components, Tony Miller sells a quality beginner strop for about $50 with replaceable strops.

You need both good linen and quality clean leather, the cleanliness and quality of the strops will affect the finish and edge of the razor.

 

[dunadan]

I like hanging strops for razors and fixed strops for knives and tools. I suppose its because a hanging strop makes it easier to keep it conformed to the spine and edge. At least for me. But board strops work fine for razors too, you just want to keep a light touch.

The trick to proper stropping a razor is using the “Right” amount of pressure. With a paddle strop it is easy to use too much pressure, a hanging strop allows you to easily adjust/regulate pressure.

Back in the day when balsa pasted strops were the rage, and new stroppers were having edge issues, the pasted paddle strop was the problem.

Can you finish a razor on a paddle? Of course, but you must pay attention to the pressure. When you strop you put pressure on the edge and flex the edge, too much flex and the edge begins to break, crack, microchip.

Add paste and one can compound the issue.

Buy a quality strop, preferably one with replaceable components, Tony Miller sells a quality beginner strop for about $50 with replaceable strops.

You need both good linen and quality clean leather, the cleanliness and quality of the strops will affect the finish and edge of the razor.

Thank you both. Good to know about the pressure/needing a light touch with board and paddle strops. I have a Tony Miller on the way so good to hear they are of good quality.

 

[House Boy]

Please explain or example of pressure degree needed. Sometimes I don't know my own strength so sometimes I tend to use not enough that items are to loose in my hand.

 

[LJS]

Please explain or example of pressure degree needed. Sometimes I don't know my own strength so sometimes I tend to use not enough that items are to loose in my hand.

This is one of the more difficult things to explain and greatest “lost in translation” of internet guidance on straight razor stropping and honing unfortunately. It always ends up being explained in relative terms and with subjective interpretation(s). That’s my preface before I try and answer.

I vary my pressure and tend to be more aggressive with pressure to start and finish extremely light. So I’ll try and explain basic pressure for stropping that most folks seem to understand. Basic pressure is the same pressure you apply while you shave. Apply no more pressure than you would on your face. Most folks “get” that relative reference. Heavier or more aggressive pressure is just that, some exertion beyond how you would shave. I end stropping very lightly where I want it to just glide across the strop yet still maintain contact. Much lighter pressure than I shave with. Good smooth contact with the strop and smooth action/movement is important at any pressure. Your edge with be as smooth as your stropping, so proper technique matters.

That’s me and my best description - hope it is of some help.

 

[House Boy]

Basic pressure is the same pressure you apply while you shave. Apply no more pressure than you would on your face. Most folks “get” that relative reference. Heavier or more aggressive pressure is just that, some exertion beyond how you would shave. I end stropping very lightly where I want it to just glide across the strop yet still maintain contact. Much lighter pressure than I shave with. Good smooth contact with the strop and smooth action/movement is important at any pressure. Your edge with be as smooth as your stropping, so proper technique matters.

That’s me and my best description - hope it is of some help.

Excellent your explanation , thank you.

 

[Alum of Potash]

This is one of the more difficult things to explain and greatest “lost in translation” of internet guidance on straight razor stropping and honing unfortunately. It always ends up being explained in relative terms and with subjective interpretation(s). That’s my preface before I try and answer.

I vary my pressure and tend to be more aggressive with pressure to start and finish extremely light. So I’ll try and explain basic pressure for stropping that most folks seem to understand. Basic pressure is the same pressure you apply while you shave. Apply no more pressure than you would on your face. Most folks “get” that relative reference. Heavier or more aggressive pressure is just that, some exertion beyond how you would shave. I end stropping very lightly where I want it to just glide across the strop yet still maintain contact. Much lighter pressure than I shave with. Good smooth contact with the strop and smooth action/movement is important at any pressure. Your edge with be as smooth as your stropping, so proper technique matters.

That’s me and my best description - hope it is of some help.

Very nice description. I'm curious as to how you are gripping the shank of the razor (i.e., placement of thumb and forefinger) when stropping and what happens during the flip.

 

[LJS]

I'm curious as to how you are gripping the shank of the razor (i.e., placement of thumb and forefinger) when stropping and what happens during the flip.

Well, I honestly have never paid attention to that and focus on the razor and strop really. Sometimes I am very slow and deliberate even picking the razor up at the end to gently flip. Most of the time I just flip at the end of a stroke for a return stroke and move rather quickly (after much experience). I have done it….but I am not a strop nicker in general. I start with longer strokes and prefer a longer strop because of this. I tend to end with much shorter and gentle strokes. So I apologize, but I’m not sure I have a good answer to your question because have never paid attention to that. I can say that loose scales drive me nuts and I need decent scale tension, so I must rely on the scales for some support with non-kamisori type razors. Scales tension is important to the feel in my hand……but that may not be true for everyone and only important to my habits really. It’s the edge/strop contact that matters for the shave, but there are extraneous factors that relate to habit and comfort of course

We haven’t even mentioned strop tension. Also important. I’ll go ahead and add, taught strop, not tight or loose, is generally best. A loose strop is more aggressive (maybe even detrimental if too lose) and a tight strop is more gentle and less effective. The “give” of the strop and being a compressible material is how it works - you need to learn to use that.

 

[LJS]

I will add another potential training exercise I think most can do well. But scary to some.

Learn to strop on your forearm. This isn’t for everyone. But you will be surprised how gentle and controlled people become when it is their own flesh and skin……surprisingly better than dead cow skin actually. Don’t make a mistake - obviously. But you naturally will be more careful and deliberate and your pressure will almost certainly be correct.

If you chop your forearms up I take no accountability Don’t be stupid, but done carefully is very effective. Please please take care of you try this. But I do it often while honing and something that existed centuries before me.

 

[Alum of Potash]

I will add another potential training exercise I think most can do well. But scary to some.

Learn to strop on your forearm. This isn’t for everyone. But you will be surprised how gentle and controlled people become when it is their own flesh and skin……surprisingly better than dead cow skin actually. Don’t make a mistake - obviously. But you naturally will be more careful and deliberate and your pressure will almost certainly be correct.

If you chop your forearms up I take no accountability Don’t be stupid, but done carefully is very effective. Please please take care of you try this. But I do it often while honing and something that existed centuries before me.

This seems analogous to felt-lined paddle strops, whereby the stropping surface is slightly convex, the forearm being convex as well. Still, with hairy forearms like mine, it's probably best for me to try this on the underside.

 

[Alum of Potash]

Well, I honestly have never paid attention to that and focus on the razor and strop really. Sometimes I am very slow and deliberate even picking the razor up at the end to gently flip. Most of the time I just flip at the end of a stroke for a return stroke and move rather quickly (after much experience). I have done it….but I am not a strop nicker in general. I start with longer strokes and prefer a longer strop because of this. I tend to end with much shorter and gentle strokes. So I apologize, but I’m not sure I have a good answer to your question because have never paid attention to that. I can say that loose scales drive me nuts and I need decent scale tension, so I must rely on the scales for some support with non-kamisori type razors. Scales tension is important to the feel in my hand……but that may not be true for everyone and only important to my habits really. It’s the edge/strop contact that matters for the shave, but there are extraneous factors that relate to habit and comfort of course

We haven’t even mentioned strop tension. Also important. I’ll go ahead and add, taught strop, not tight or loose, is generally best. A loose strop is more aggressive (maybe even detrimental if too lose) and a tight strop is more gentle and less effective. The “give” of the strop and being a compressible material is how it works - you need to learn to use that.

The reason I asked is that when starting out in 2011, I followed certain videos which showed a grip towards the top (spine) and bottom (jimps) of the shank during the pass and with a release during the flip whereby the razor was spun without a turn or change of the wrist. The thumb would be placed on top (the spine) during the first pass and would then be placed on the bottom (jimps) for the return. Any pressure as applied was levered from the scales. Consequently, I would occasionally nick the strop slightly along the right edge of the strop (I strop right-handed) never really knowing why.

A few months later, I entered into a long communication with an old-timer who encouraged me to grip the sides of the shank rather than from top to bottom, with a bias towards the leading edge and involving a slight turn of the wrist during the flip. This made all the difference. It involved more pressure but it was I who was in control not the strop. So I continued in this way without incident until I gave up straights midway during the Covid lock-down, mostly in wanting to try something new to me, safety razors. But still, I view this stropping approach as inherently heavy-handed, especially when it is applied to the honing process. One can lighten up on things, but is never a light-as-a-feather type situation.