Blood makes poor lather

[Dzaw]

One of my straights has biten me the last two shaves. What are you using to keep your edges maintained?

I had been using "The Method" on both of my razors. The Judicato seems to have foiled an edge, or maybe I rolled in stropping.

I sharpened these two razors together, at the same time, setting the bevel using the same method and progressing identically from there, all the way down to 0.1 micro CBN in balsa, which I have been using between shaves ever since.

The Shell razor shaves beautifully (see next report) and so did the Judicato at first. Then, it just seems to have lost it, while the Shell keeps shaving.

When I gather enough give a damn to re-hone the Judicato razor, I am thinking of trying the "Science of Sharp" method from the beginning, and seeing how I like that edge.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #72:
Date: 02/06/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: Arko
Brush: Omega boar
Razor: Shell "Real German" 5/8”
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Lucky Tiger

Great shave this evening. smooth and comfortable. Being out of practice, I nicked myself a couple of times, but they were both distinctly my own fault.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #73:
Date: 02/07/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: Arko
Brush: Omega boar
Razor: Shell "Real German" 5/8”
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Nivea Sensitive cooling AS balm

Somewhat less nice shave today. I got through my first pass and was all happy and proud I hadn’t spilled so much as a droplet. However, by the end of the second pass I was noticing little blood spots along the lower neck areas.

After two and a half passes, I am SAS with some pretty good comfort. Not a damn fine shave, but quite passable and not distractingly uncomfortable. I’ll take it.

 

[Clay S]

Sounds like it's taking you a couple of warm-ups to get back in the swing of things. Take what you can! as you seem to do

Happy Shaves!

 

[Dzaw]

Yeah, there is that, and also just human variance - even when in practice, some shaves are going to be better than others. I wasn’t really striving for a perfect bbs, not being super duper careful - I was just shaving, and I got just a shave.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #74:
Date: 02/12/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: Tabac
Brush: SOC Boar
Razor: J&R Dodge Judicato "Prussian Army" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Lucky Tiger

Victory is sweet

I re-honed this razor using the "Science of Sharp" method called "Simple Straight Razor Honing":

Simple Straight Razor Honing

This method is a bit weird, and I had to unlearn some of the things I always assumed to be true. However, boy does it work!

This razor had been giving me fits and had been shaving terribly uncomfortably, leaving razor burn and blood in its wake.

This morning, however, I can say I had the smoothest straight razor shave I've yet to experience. This includes with the white handled razor from the method passaround.

I did cut my neck in the same "trouble zone" that has been giving me a hard time all along, but I used to bleed in this area using cartridge razors and safety razors too, so that's no surprise. The rest of my face has a DFS FTW!!!

I did "modify" the instructions in the science of sharp's method in one way: the final strop with 0.25 diamond is in balsa, not leather. Some of the other information on the same website indicated that balsa should work for this method, so rather than buy a new leather strop, I used the balsa strop I already have.

No indication yet on how long this edge lasts, but I should be able to strop it back to life when it starts to fade, so it's not all that different from "The Method" for maintenance. Heck, I may just maintain it the same way I would a method edge, with a few laps on the pasted balsa between each shave.

I am going to swap between these two for a while to really try and judge which works better for my whiskers.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #75:
Date: 02/14/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: Arko
Brush: Omega Boar
Razor: Shell "Real Germa" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Nivea cooling sensitive AS balm

Even after a lot of time stropping on the 0.1 balsa, this razor now seems to be needing some additional attention. Tugging and stalling was the name of the game.

After fighting through two passes, my valentine's day shave is an acceptable CCS, with a little bit of burn. Not bad, and I'll take it, though I've had better from this razor.

Going to transition this blade to the Science of sharp method, see if it matches its brother's performance.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #76:
Date: 02/15/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: WK King of Oud
Brush: SOC Boar
Razor: Shell "Real Germa" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Nivea cooling sensitive AS balm

Yep. This method is the real deal. I was so inspired by how nicely this razor was shaving with its new edge that I tried an against the grain pass in pursuit of a true BBS shave.

That turned out to be a mistake - I am out of practice with the grips and approach vectors for against the grain shaving, and I cut myself a couple of times. Totally a series of technique oops's, but nonetheless, even with some drawn blood, I ended up with BBS over 80% or thereabouts, with DFS for the rest. This is one of the closest shaves I've ever had. Not quite as comfortable as it could be, with some lingering discomfort where the blood was drawn, but overall very promising.

 

[Seveneighth]

Shave #76:
Date: 02/15/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: WK King of Oud
Brush: SOC Boar
Razor: Shell "Real Germa" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Nivea cooling sensitive AS balm

Yep. This method is the real deal. I was so inspired by how nicely this razor was shaving with its new edge that I tried an against the grain pass in pursuit of a true BBS shave.

That turned out to be a mistake - I am out of practice with the grips and approach vectors for against the grain shaving, and I cut myself a couple of times. Totally a series of technique oops's, but nonetheless, even with some drawn blood, I ended up with BBS over 80% or thereabouts, with DFS for the rest. This is one of the closest shaves I've ever had. Not quite as comfortable as it could be, with some lingering discomfort where the blood was drawn, but overall very promising.

This was with the Science of Sharp edge?

 

[Dzaw]

This was with the Science of Sharp edge?

Yes sir it was

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #77:
Date: 02/18/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: Tabac
Brush: Omega Boar
Razor: J&R Dodge Judicato "Prussian Army" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Lucky Tiger AS

It occurs to me today (21st) that I haven't posted about my last two shaves - so this is the first of them.

This shave was very satisfying overall. Smooth, comfortable, and close, it resulted in a DFS with no real drama. One little nick which was a total NewB type of touchdown nick, for which I berated myself for not knowing better.

Then it occurred to me - I've never (and I mean never to date) had a shave which didn't draw -some- blood. Obviously some a lot less than others, but cartridge razors, safety razor, and now straight, I've never failed to bleed when taming my beard.

Especially illustrative - my dad swears by electrics, but the few times I've tried them, I bled. I even let the ladies at the salon my wife has her eyebrows done at try with the wax treatment. They were all super cocky with "We can remove ANY hair" until they tried my beard. The wax came off with about 10-20% of the hair they covered with it, leaving my face bleeding and still in need of a shave.

So, yeah, maybe I'm asking too much. I have quite sensitive facial skin coupled with ridiculously tough beard. Maybe I'll just always bleed from shaving.

At least the straight razor feels smooth and comfortable aside, and the nicks and weepers have tended to be smaller and fewer than with pretty much any other method at this point.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #78:
Date: 02/20/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: WK King of Oud
Brush: SOC Boar
Razor: Shell "Real German" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Nivea cooling sensitive AS balm

This is from yesterday (I am about to shower and shave again).

So, I still can't expect great things when shaving in a hurry. A quick two passes left me SAS, maybe a little closer, but at the cost of one good bleeder I needed the styptic pencil for, because I was in a hurry.

Aside from that spot, I was pretty comfortable all day, but I could have wished for a more thorough and slightly closer shave.

Looking back on this log, it's been a while since I've used my Arko, so that's next in the rotation this morning.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #79:
Date: 02/21/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: Arko
Brush: Omega Boar
Razor: J&R Dodge Judicato "Prussian Army" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Nivea cooling sensitive AS balm

Mixed bag today.

I took my time. I am learning / experimenting with a slightly steeper angle. Early on, everyone tells a new shave to make a super shallow angle. Over time, I had been interpreting that advise as shallower and shallower. To the point where I was almost resting the spine on my face, like I were trying to hone the razor on my face.

A few times, I've noticed when shaving various curves that some areas go much more smoothly with a little more angle, not quite a scraping angle, definitely still edge forward, but not pasting the whole bevel to my skin.

While the actual cutting of hair was pretty well improved in its smoothness, having the spine a bit further off the face also angles the edge a little more in towards the skin. I had about 6-8 ish little weepers spread out over my face, and a slice in one spot where I hesitated mid swipe.

Ah, well, such is the learning curve. The alum was predictably cranky in those spots, but very smooth elsewhere. The final result is a nicely close shave, closer than just SAS by good measure. No razor burn to speak of either, so I guess you could call it a CCS, except for those spots where my learning curve made the alum sting.

A quick rub of Nivea cooling AS balm, and all is right with the world.

It also occurred to me as I was cleaning up, I like shaving this way! The ritual is centering and anchoring for my day, and frankly, the shave is closer, smoother, and more comfortable than when I used to shave in the shower with a cartridge razor.

 

[Seveneighth]

I find that the edge on the razor: synth/high grit natural/coticule affects the angle I use. Also the amount of skin stretching.

Do you like the arko? I can't get it slick enough for straight shaving. Gave up on it a long time ago.

 

[Dzaw]

Arko sure gets the job done. I’ve loved it as a baseline to compare other soaps to. I spent money on it so I am very reluctant to give it up, but I also have a puck of Tabac which outperforms it in every way, and a tub of wholly Kaw donkey milk/tallow which is in a whole other universe.

Overall, I like Arko. My water must really agree with it, or something because it takes nearly no effort to produce a lot of slick lather, and it’s easy to thicken or thin until it’s how I like it.

The scent is very soapy with a strong lemon undertone. Not terrible, but surely not great. The post shave feel is pretty lacking, dry and astringent feeling. Tabac is slicker, just as easy to lather, smells a lot nicer, and the post shave is better.

I’ll have to keep playing with the angle to find my optimal. I was impressed with how smooth the slight increase in angle made cutting hair, but it also made it easier to cut skin, so that’s a little sub optimal.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #80:
Date: 02/25/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: WK king of Oud
Brush: SOC boar
Razor: Shell “Real German” 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: lucky tiger

Overall very happy with today’s shave. These science of sharp edges seem to be holding up well and shaving me smoothly and irritation free.

I’ve been doing more reading about the sorts of problems I’ve been having in my “trouble area” in the hollow of my lower neck, just to the right of the actual throat. That area has the hair growing super parallel to the skin, and mostly easy to west, but with enough hairs going in slightly different directions that “with the grain” is nearly impossible. The best I can manage is a semi-nice across/with pass. This area is usually less well shaved and red, regardless of the razor i use. Today, however, not so much.

More aggressive stretching really seems to be key to this area. If I don’t try to shave this area when I am shaving near it, but save it u til the lather has been cleaned off around it more, I can then reasonably come back to this region, stretch the skin much more than I had used to do, and it makes a big difference in the final result.

I was so distracted getting this area right that I forgot to do a good close cleanup pass under my chin, so that area is at CCS but most of the rest of my face is quite a lot smoother (date I say, approaching that mythical bbs).

I do have one spot along my jawline where the blade caught, and then in two subsequent swipes, the blade caught right I. That pre existing cut, but even with all three catches right there, the alum was more than sufficient to stop any weeping, so it wasn’t any kind of big deal.

Speaking of the alum, it was smooth an happy for the most part, letting me know that yes, I really am getting the hang of this open bladed shaving thing.

Happy Dan.

 

[Clay S]

Shave #80:
Date: 02/25/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: WK king of Oud
Brush: SOC boar
Razor: Shell “Real German” 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: lucky tiger

Overall very happy with today’s shave. These science of sharp edges seem to be holding up well and shaving me smoothly and irritation free.

I’ve been doing more reading about the sorts of problems I’ve been having in my “trouble area” in the hollow of my lower neck, just to the right of the actual throat. That area has the hair growing super parallel to the skin, and mostly easy to west, but with enough hairs going in slightly different directions that “with the grain” is nearly impossible. The best I can manage is a semi-nice across/with pass. This area is usually less well shaved and red, regardless of the razor i use. Today, however, not so much.

More aggressive stretching really seems to be key to this area. If I don’t try to shave this area when I am shaving near it, but save it u til the lather has been cleaned off around it more, I can then reasonably come back to this region, stretch the skin much more than I had used to do, and it makes a big difference in the final result.

I was so distracted getting this area right that I forgot to do a good close cleanup pass under my chin, so that area is at CCS but most of the rest of my face is quite a lot smoother (date I say, approaching that mythical bbs).

I do have one spot along my jawline where the blade caught, and then in two subsequent swipes, the blade caught right I. That pre existing cut, but even with all three catches right there, the alum was more than sufficient to stop any weeping, so it wasn’t any kind of big deal.

Speaking of the alum, it was smooth an happy for the most part, letting me know that yes, I really am getting the hang of this open bladed shaving thing.

Happy Dan.

Glad to hear it is going well with you! I hate catching the "hanging chad" of an earlier misstep.

 

[Dzaw]

Glad to hear it is going well with you! I hate catching the "hanging chad" of an earlier misstep.

Been meaning to stop in and offer my thanks, your work with stretching and microscopy has really helped my technique take a new step! It was largely responsible for the above post!

 

[Clay S]

Been meaning to stop in and offer my thanks, your work with stretching and microscopy has really helped my technique take a new step! It was largely responsible for the above post!

Your welcome! Was just letting my geek show

Hopefully it will help get my shaves to where I want them.

 

[Dzaw]

Shave #81:
Date: 02/26/2019
Prep: Hot Shower
Soap: Arko
Brush: Omega boar
Razor: J&R Dodge Judicato "Prussian Army" 5/8"
Post: alum followed by Thayers
A/S: Nivea sensitive cooling AS balm

So it took me a few days to digest this shave before I could really comment. I am still a bit confused, and am going to make a post over in the clinic for additional feedback.

All indications after my previous shave seemed to be great. However, the next morning, before my shower, there were a dozen or so little whitehead spots on my chin. I am guessing they were ingrown hairs, but I thought I was past that.

In days gone by, the appearance of white headed ingrown hairs after a shave was an indication it was time to change my cartridge, or that I had scraped that area a few too many times with a multi bladed cart. Since this is a straight blade, I am wondering now at the meaning.

So I drained them all, splashed them with Thayers, and took an hour before my shower to let the skin chill out. Then I did my normal shower prep, and shaved.

This was a miserable shave. All of those ingrown hairs were now topped off and bleeding. That I could have predicted and avoided. However, the several dozen teensy tinsy little blood spots along my neck was really bizarre. I don't have any idea what caused them, but the alum screamed all over, and even an hour after the aftershave, the area looked red and raw.

There is also a new cut on the opposite cheek from the "hanging chad" incident. The old one is lower, more along the jawline, and further forward, so they don't look symmetrical. All in all, it looks like I tried to shave with a lawnmower.

I haven't shaved since, and am trying to just let everything heal over before I try again. These results are bizarre to me, but I can put my finger on what -MAY- be contributing factors.

1: I am not accustomed to shaving every day. Since I had shaved the day before, perhaps it was a mistake to shave again so soon.

2: I suppose it is possible the edge on the razor need some attention. Maybe I rolled it in stropping? I've been going over my stropping technique with videos and tutorials here on B&B, and can't seem to find any reason I would continuously be doing so, but my razors seem to dull AWFULLY quickly, unless I am totally misdiagnosing edge issues all the damn time

3: More likely (I feel) it is also possible I just got overzealous after a few great shaves, and took my angle up too far and unknowingly applied pressure while I was at it. I thought I was being pretty careful, but I suppose maybe not.