Blade sampling/testing procedure help.

[nehpets4627]

I'm almost 2 weeks into DE shaving. I started out like many with a cheap Chinese TTO and some Derby blades. Both went to the wayside quickly. I first moved to a Gillette Super Adjustable but kept the Derby blade with near identical results. I then moved to a Gillette 7 o'Clock Sharp Edge (Yellow, Russian) with very favorable results.

Now, thanks to a blade sampler from RazorBladesAndMore, a mixed bag from BST, and a few local acquisitions I have around 20 different blades to sample. I want to work through the whole lot and likely keep a log, but I honestly don't want commit the time involved with using 2 blades of each type, mainly because (if the 7 o'Clock Sharp Edge is any indicator) that could mean nearly 2 weeks per blade type in some instances.

I would love to work through the 20 or so blade types in under 2 months. With basically 6 shaves per week, I could do 2 shaves per blade type then move on and be finished in 40 days, or just over 6.5 weeks. This would allow me to assess basic shave characteristics (sharpness, smoothness, irritation, forgiveness, etc) and narrow my choices to a handful of blades, as well as minimize waste of blades I'll likely PIF or trade later on.

Once I have it down to 5 or so blades I like, I'll test 1 of each for wear characteristics by pushing it through as many shaves as possible before I get tugging or other signs the blade is done. This should let me assess the durability and work out a cost-per-shave for each finalist, as well as further evaluate nuances in shave characteristics. From here hopefully I can pick a few favorites, do a bulk buy, archive a couple of each "loser" for future testing as technique and razor selection improve, and PIF or trade the rest.

How does this sound for a testing method? I know limiting it to a single blade for each type in the first lot won't let me take into account blade quality variability, but I have a large number of blades to test and don't want to spend 4-6 months doing so. Also, what do you think of limiting the durability testing to just the finalists? I might miss a blade that gives only an adequate shave but lasts a really long time... but if that's what I was looking for, I'd stick with cartridges.

My main goal here is not an in-depth review of each blade or to relate my findings in a way that might be applicable to anyone other than myself... I'll leave that to others far more qualified and patient than myself. This may sound selfish, but I don't have the experience necessary to analyze my findings beyond the direct results on my face by my razor with my technique. My only goal is to find the blades that work best for me (quality and value) from the 20 or so I have on hand.

Any any recommendations on testing order? The blades to be tested are:

- Astra Platinum
- Astra Superior Stainless
- Blue Bird
- Crystal
- Derby
- Dorco ST300
- Dorco ST301
- Feather (Black Box)
- Gillette 7 O'clock SharpEdge (Yellow, Russian)
- KAI
- Kroger (ASR)
- Lord Super Stainless
- Merkur
- Personna (Israeli)
- Personna Red
- Personna Medical
- Wilkinson Sword (German, Wal-Mart)
- 3 or 4 others I can't think of, will edit when I get home

Others that will likely be added:

- Gillette 365 (India)
- Gillette Permasharp (Green, Indian)
- Gillette Super Platinum (Black, Indian)
- Gillette Super Stainless (Green, Russian)
- Gillette Wilkinson Sword (India)

 

[Pkrankow]

Pick a blade, say that Gillette 7am yellow you like. Call it your best shave.
Start a notebook, er, I use an envelope back.
Shave with your "favorite" blade, however many good shaves it gives, and record.
Shave with the next blade on the list. Is it a better shave? yes, it is your new "favorite" record shave count.
No, then go back to the "favorite" and shave, then move on to the next blade.

Start with the locally sourced blades and see if any are nice. You will get some ties, and near ties, that is just fine. I use Kroger and walmart wilks as my "go-to" for new equipment and when I don't want to make a choice. I also like feather and kai and 7am. Derby and lord classic have been removed from my working assortment.

If you get a horrible shave then consider making a second shave on the blade, it may improve. If you get several blades that are horrible from one brand, then don't bother using that brand anymore, at least for several months.

Once you have several good blade choices, you may not really want to try more right away.

Phil

 

[BlackBard]

Your methodology seems sound and I also like the advice from Pkrankow.

BUT, you may not yet have perfected your shaving skills (lathering, razor handling, etc) sufficiently to account for the variability of your shaving as it may affect the performance of each blade.

Consider that your shaving skills might improve after, say, 30 days into your testing. How will you account for this with respect to assessing the blades you first used, when your skills were less than they are at the end of the test period?

I suggest that you stick with one blade for a few months before you begin testing others. Once you are confident that you are able to get consistent results from that one blade, then you will be ready to try others. Good luck.

 

[Pkrankow]

I don't disagree with staying with one blade for a while, but trying a few is not a bad idea as you may be shaving with a horrible blade for your face and never know it.

Phil

 

[nehpets4627]

I don't disagree with staying with one blade for a while, but trying a few is not a bad idea as you may be shaving with a horrible blade for your face and never know it.

Phil

Had I stuck it out with the Derby (thinking it was my technique causing all the problems) then I would still be in this camp. On a whim I tried the 7 o'Clock SharpEdge and it was a night/day difference. This leads me to believe my technique is good enough to distinguish the differences, even if it is still developing. I'm also planning on archiving (storing away) 2 of each blade, regardless of how it performed, so I can re-visit the testing on down the road. I'll PIF or trade the rest of those that don't agree with me and use those that do before eventually making a bulk order of 1 or 2 blade types.

 

[redrako]

I don't disagree with staying with one blade for a while, but trying a few is not a bad idea as you may be shaving with a horrible blade for your face and never know it.

Phil

Although I believe in YMMV for blades, razors and other hard and software, ultimately the challenge for the noobie (and the experienced shaver) is to lubricate and cushion the skin and pull the blade against the skin at the proper angle.

As much as I like to shave with different blades, the quality of lathering, effective face mapping, taking my time and focusing on proper angle contribute more to my shave than which blade I'm using.

I learned using Sharp stainless and a Parker 91 razor - not a very good blade and a very aggressive razor. Believe me, my neck forced me to develop good technique.

The benefit of trying different blades is that you'll be able to arrive at good blades, the downside is that when combined with still learning how to lather and develop good technique, you may be introducing too many variables into the equation.

Keep us posted on your experience

 

[nehpets4627]

One thing to consider is I'm mainly trying to widely lump blades in to those that work for me now and those that do not... I'm not looking to evaluate the finer nuances or try to relate the results in such a way as to be usefully consumed by a wider audience (though I will report because I like the sound of my own typing).

This also won't be the end-all of my blade testing, but just an exercise in evaluating what I have on-hand right now in relation to my technique as it stands and as it will progress over the course of the testing. I know my technique will continue to change, but I also know from the Derby-to-SharpEdge move that I can perceive at least large changes in blade performance, enough to make a basic "Good or Bad" assessment.

I'm sure I'll circle back and re-test all of these blades and more 6 or 12 months down the road to see how my perception has changed. I might even have a different razor(s) by then, so there's another re-test parameter.

This may or may not evolve into a "Feather, measure of all blades" type of evaluation. Right now the intention is just a "Good or Bad" type evaluation so I know what blades are options for me when it comes time to bulk buy.

 

[Roobaix]

I know limiting it to a single blade for each type in the first lot won't let me take into account blade quality variability, but I have a large number of blades to test and don't want to spend 4-6 months doing so.

This would be my main concern. I find that sometimes you get a good blade and sometimes you get a bad one.

I totally understand not wanting to take forever to go through all the blades, but form another standpoint; what's the rush?

 

[nehpets4627]

I totally understand not wanting to take forever to go through all the blades, but form another standpoint; what's the rush?

Impatience? Human nature? Knowing my own mentality when it comes to new hobbies? Fear of all my unused sampler blades uniting, rising up, and attacking me in my sleep? These all seem like valid reasons and concerns...

 

[man00ver]

I think your method is sound enough. I started with a two-and-out rotation, followed by three-and-out to confirm impressions, then six-and-out going forward.

Of course, I only started with a six-count of samples (Merkur, Derby, Astra SP, white German Wilk, Feather, and Personna Med), and was able to complete the first 2 rounds in about 5 weeks (6 shaves per week).

I've since added quite a few more to the rotation (Lord Platinum, Shark SC, Shark SS, Gillette 7OC SharpEdge, 7OC Super Platinum and NOS Bleue Extra, Nacet Platinum, metal and black German Wilks from Wal-Mart, Dollar General generics). I've yet to try the Wally blacks and the DGs, but I've worked some palm-stropping experimentation into my trials of blades where I experienced rough shaves on first or subsequent use.

I just retired a Derby; it's still not my favorite, but it worked a lot better after palm-stropping.

 

[KDGage]

I did it March Madness style. This week Trig silver vs Merkur. 2 shaves per blade, then decide which I like better. Winner moves to next round, looser gets thrown in box to try again later or with other razors. Plan to narrow it down to 4 or 5 blades (started w/ 20+ different brands), and then get 10-20 of each and take my time and get to know those well before zeroing in on a favorite. Then will try new brands as I feel like, testing against my favorite.

 

[nehpets4627]

I'm starting my testing today, using the Gillette 7 o'Clock SharpEdge (Yellow, Russia) as my benchmark "Good" blade and the Derby Extra (Vertical) as my benchmark "Bad" blade. Even with those two as baselines, I'm going to re-test them as they come up in alphabetical order, mainly to confirm my initial thoughts and see if my technique is changing enough to invalidate my results.

Razor will be Gillette Super Adjustable set to 3. Pre will be a hot shower. Creme will be bowl-lathered Proraso (C. O. Bigelow). Post will be WH, Proraso AS Splash, and Nivea Sensitive Balm. The only thing likely to change will be the brush... starting today will be a Shaving Factory XS Boar (Jaguar 236) but Tuesday or Wednesday will be a Parker Deluxe Handle 24mm Pure (untrimmed tips, closer to Best).

Each blade will get a single post outlining my thoughts on each shave and of the blade in general, along with packaging details, package price, and bulk price. Package price will come from the better of West Coast Shaving, Razor Blades and More, and Amazon. Bulk price will come from the best of the preceding, plus eBay. I don't want to put a number rating to different properties as that would infer a level of precision and accuracy I'm probably not capable of obtaining. Instead, I'm going to stick with ratings of "Bad", "Mediocre", "Average", and "Good".

I'll also come bag and add pictures of packaging, blade marking, and glue as time permits, but this won't be my highest priority.

 

[nehpets4627]

Astra Superior Platinum

Qty/pack - 5
Box - Cardboard
Wrapper - Paper + Wax
Glue - Yes

Pack Price - $2
Bulk Price - $15/100

Shave 1: Fairly smooth WTG passes and ATG pass. Growth reduction was fairly quick as well. ATG touch-up, however, was still fairly smooth be had a louder scraping sound. This lead me to expect some irritation. Final result was SAS + but not quite DFS. Could already feel some stinging with the WH which was built upon with the AS splash, but the balm calmed it down. Irritation was spotty, but mostly upper lip and lingered for about 1.5 hours post-shave. Felt similar to the 5th shave on the 7 o'Clock SharpEdge.

Shave 2: Will edit.

Summary: Will edit.

Smoothness -Average
Sharpness -Average
Closeness -Average
Comfort -Mediocre