Hello everyone. I know this is a YMMV thing but I'm wondering if anyone can relate and might have some suggestions. I'm noticing I need a sharp blade but certain sharp blades cause irritation, not sure why. If I use a duller blade it's nothing but pulling and tugging. I'm using a game changer and so far the personna Israeli reds are the only blades that are comfortable and don't cause irritation. Feathers sometimes and gsb if I'm using a rockwell 6c but don't use it since I got game changer awhile ago. I have a ridiculous amount of different blades to try but wondering if anyone has suggestions or what may be closest to the reds. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Also I ride the cap or neutral.
Blade causing irritation
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I would start by trying any of the Russian made Gillettes (Perma-sharp super, Gillette Platinum, 7 o'clock sharp edge or Polsilver SI).
It might be worth checking which blades are causing the irritation. Many have a coating and the coating could perhaps cause the irritation. If you determined that the "guilty" blades were the ones with a Platinum coating, for example, then you could stop using those. You could try using a blade without a coating - if it didn't cause irritation then it might be the one for you to use.
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- #4
That was my theory at first, tried every platinum chrome I could except for the bic and all gave irritation. I've heard overly sharp blades can cause irritation but not sure why or how. I thought the nacet was working but usually had a little bit of tugging.
Man, I have had a very similar experience! I have to be super careful with some blades. I realized it was a combination of things that made some blades feel like barbed wire down my face.
It comes from pressing too hard, shaving the grain improperly, previous damage that hasn't healed, soap that wasn't slick or prepared improperly, doing too many passes to get BBS, a rough boar brush. Some of my razors are too aggressive for my beard and for certain blades. The list goes on.
One of my main culprits was proraso white soap. The menthol was too strong and it just isnt slick enough for me or my local water. I could see in the mirror how menthol aftershaves were inflaming my skin right after applying.
Blades that work for me: Astra SP, Feather, Wilkinson Sword (Germany), and Sharp Star
Blades that irritate: personna Blue, Treet Black, gillette silver blue (sometimes), Gillette Nacet, permasharp.
It can get really complicated! But I am sure you will sort this out after a while. I still am!
It comes from pressing too hard, shaving the grain improperly, previous damage that hasn't healed, soap that wasn't slick or prepared improperly, doing too many passes to get BBS, a rough boar brush. Some of my razors are too aggressive for my beard and for certain blades. The list goes on.
One of my main culprits was proraso white soap. The menthol was too strong and it just isnt slick enough for me or my local water. I could see in the mirror how menthol aftershaves were inflaming my skin right after applying.
Blades that work for me: Astra SP, Feather, Wilkinson Sword (Germany), and Sharp Star
Blades that irritate: personna Blue, Treet Black, gillette silver blue (sometimes), Gillette Nacet, permasharp.
It can get really complicated! But I am sure you will sort this out after a while. I still am!
If you are fairly new to DE shaving, I'd look to improving your technique before chasing blades, it's far more likely taht how you are shaving is more of a problem than the blades.
That said, I have heard from several people that they cannot use platinum coated blades, they always get a red, itching face if they shave with them.
Also, if you have been watching YouTube, you should know that many of the people posting videos shave at extremely high blade angles, and often have fairly red faces when they are finished -- this should be a hint that you want a shallow, not steep angle. Try reducing the angle until the blade won't cut, then raise it a bit. I've found the ideal angle is where the blade cuts well but I can just barely feel it. Any steeper and it pulls and scrapes.
Same thing goes for pressure, if you push the blade is gonna remove some skin. You need the edge in gentle but consistent contact -- allowing it to "fly" above the skin will result in the blade feeling dull and lots of tugging.
That said, I have heard from several people that they cannot use platinum coated blades, they always get a red, itching face if they shave with them.
Also, if you have been watching YouTube, you should know that many of the people posting videos shave at extremely high blade angles, and often have fairly red faces when they are finished -- this should be a hint that you want a shallow, not steep angle. Try reducing the angle until the blade won't cut, then raise it a bit. I've found the ideal angle is where the blade cuts well but I can just barely feel it. Any steeper and it pulls and scrapes.
Same thing goes for pressure, if you push the blade is gonna remove some skin. You need the edge in gentle but consistent contact -- allowing it to "fly" above the skin will result in the blade feeling dull and lots of tugging.
The Israeli Reds and the GSB's are the smoothest blades I have ever used. As far as angle of shave, that varies with the razor being used. Some are better with shallow angles others are best with wider angles.
Is the irritation you are getting just in some small spots or all over? If just in certain spots, it may be a mismatch between the razor and blade combination and technique. If the irritation is all over, you maybe allergic to one or more coatings on the blade.
Is the irritation you are getting just in some small spots or all over? If just in certain spots, it may be a mismatch between the razor and blade combination and technique. If the irritation is all over, you maybe allergic to one or more coatings on the blade.
Not to contradict the wisdom of improving technique, but I do believe some blades can be a problem. I overcame many hurdles of technique in the past month. I had previously blamed certain blades when irritation was, in fact, my fault. However, I used a Treet Black blade the other day. Jeez, it was a flashback to my first DE shave! My face was on fire. I used good form, good pressure, good lather. But the Treet was a loser blade for me.
I should have known better than to use a blade that says "a treet for your face" on it. Yeah, maybe if you're name is Sacher-Masoch.
I should have known better than to use a blade that says "a treet for your face" on it. Yeah, maybe if you're name is Sacher-Masoch.
In good shape, a carbon steel blade can have a sharper, finer edge than a stainless steel blade due to the finer carbides (chromium carbide particles are larger than iron carbide particles in razor steels for the most part).
Those super sharp edges can be an issue, and they won't last as long even if you oil the blades, hence the popularity of stainless blades.
My personal take on "tear my face up" issues with blades is that they are all very sharp and the user has not yet adjusted technique to match that particular blade. The bevel angle and shape varies from brand to brand, and what works well with one can peel your face with a different blade.
Those super sharp edges can be an issue, and they won't last as long even if you oil the blades, hence the popularity of stainless blades.
My personal take on "tear my face up" issues with blades is that they are all very sharp and the user has not yet adjusted technique to match that particular blade. The bevel angle and shape varies from brand to brand, and what works well with one can peel your face with a different blade.
Have a go at Treet Dura Sharp. In my opinion they are very smooth,sharp blades. The "feel" on the face is slightly different to a Stainless blade. The "ghost whisker" phenomenon applies to them, too - you feel as if you have a few whiskers left that won't go at the end of the shave, but one hour later they have vanished.
I have blades that make it easier to cause irritation with some razors. You want to find a blade that works with your razor/beard/face/technique. The only way to to that is to try them. The Reds are working and there is nothing wrong with just using them for a while.
For me PolSilver SI and Med Preps are excellent.
For me PolSilver SI and Med Preps are excellent.
Yes. The tendency to want to master a number of blades seems to come with this hobby. But is it necessary? I have a couple that work very well, including Astra SP. But sometimes you want to discover something new, even of the skin on your face is the casualty!
The Personna Platinum (as the Israeli reds are named here) are the best blades for my face as well, on almost any razor I own.
Second place goes to the Gillette silver blues, almost on par with Astra SP's
But as you said blades are highly subjective...
Second place goes to the Gillette silver blues, almost on par with Astra SP's
But as you said blades are highly subjective...
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- #14
Thanks for the input everyone. Have a few ideas for what direction to go.
I'm a bit late here, but I've found that Astra SPs give me the smoothest close shave, and this over 10+ shaves. They don't seem to get rougher with use, just less effective.
Some terrific suggestions above! For what is worth (as YMMV) my top 5 in no particular order:
Nacet
GSB
Astra SP
Personna red
Personna lab
Nacet
GSB
Astra SP
Personna red
Personna lab
Personna Reds are also in my permanent rotation. For me, I also seem to have excellent results with the following blades:
Rapira Platinum Lux: Just about as smooth as Personna Red, but sharper. Downside is that I recently had several bad batches of blades (well documented here) and confirmed by Maggards (they refunded me and pulled their entire stock off the shelf). The ones I have purchased from WCS have been flawless.
AstraSP: Sharper than Personna and just about a smooth. Will get "closer" to the skin due to its sharpness and is more likely to give you a weeper. Never caused irritation for me though.
Voskhod: The lesser sibling of Rapira Platinum Lux is not as sharp as Personna Reds but even smoother than Personna Reds. I find it nearly impossible to cut myself with this and am always amazed at how awesome my face feels after using these. That said...I would not recommend this blade if you have a coarse beard and do not shave daily (as I do) because this blade might have issues mowing through coarse long hair on pass #1.
Best of luck!
Rapira Platinum Lux: Just about as smooth as Personna Red, but sharper. Downside is that I recently had several bad batches of blades (well documented here) and confirmed by Maggards (they refunded me and pulled their entire stock off the shelf). The ones I have purchased from WCS have been flawless.
AstraSP: Sharper than Personna and just about a smooth. Will get "closer" to the skin due to its sharpness and is more likely to give you a weeper. Never caused irritation for me though.
Voskhod: The lesser sibling of Rapira Platinum Lux is not as sharp as Personna Reds but even smoother than Personna Reds. I find it nearly impossible to cut myself with this and am always amazed at how awesome my face feels after using these. That said...I would not recommend this blade if you have a coarse beard and do not shave daily (as I do) because this blade might have issues mowing through coarse long hair on pass #1.
Best of luck!
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- #18
Thank you for the in depth input. I've heard a lot of good about voshkod buy that's another one that always seems to get stopped by my hair
Doesn't surprise me. If you have crazy coarse hair or your growth is 2+ days, you will need something sharper. For me, it only works on 1day growth or less.
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- #20
In all reality I guess I don't know what my hair would be considered. Haven't touched a whole lot of other guys beards to compare. I assume it's course, I've never once felt a blade "glide" right through effortlessly. And one days growth would probably work as sandpaper.
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