Black mark on the heel of a brand new Ralf Aust 6/8

[Chrishyeon]

Dear all,

I have acquired a Ralf Aust 6/8 and I would like to know if this black mark I found on this brand new razor is normal or not. I have attached photos. It looks very much like a burnt mark. I am not sure what exactly it is.

It is not so conspicuous but it bothers me that the brand new razor came with this black stain on the heel. I have already wrote to Herr Aust about it but I want to ask members here if anyone had the same experience. I would very much appreciate it if anyone can share their knowledge on how to safely remove this mark.


Kind regards,
Chris

 

[macintoshBR]

None of my two Austs has anything like it

 

[Eastcoast30]

The second photo shows that it is near but not on the bevel. Could it be magic marker for checking while honing?

 

[Acmemfg]

If it’s in fact a Sharpie mark, some rubbing alcohol or nail polish remover should take care of it quicksmart.

 

[Straight up]

A birth mark.

 

[Katatsumuri]

The shift in color hue looks like it got hot enough to show temper coloring, meaning the edge steel there got to about 200 degrees Celsius or hotter. Now, the following is purely conjecture. From the 3d picture it looks as if the corner is blueish and the color shifts to golden near the edge. To me that suggests that the corner was rounded after final grinding. This is not abnormal. It's something I regularly do because it's easier to first grind the hollows, and then shape the heel and toe. This way you end up with crisp geometry. Doing the rounding first and then grinding and polishing can lead to wonky geometry because there is a tendency to scrape over the ends while sanding.

Anyway, the fact that it seems to shift to golden suggests that while the temperature in the corner got pretty high, the temperature on the edge didn't go above normal tempering levels of ~200 degrees Celsius. In other words, in that case it would be harmless and not affect the temper in any way. Buffing would have removed this and the fact that a sliver remains is likely an oversight. Minor aesthetic, functionally harmless flaw.

You'll notice I use a lot of careful words like 'seems' and 'suggests'. Without looking in person I can only go by the pictures so all of this is basically educated guessing, based on what I know about razor making, but without knowing how Herr Aust makes his razors, specifically. If you really want to know, send him an email.

 

[xuzxuz]

That looks like heat problem. I'd definitely send them an email.

 

[Chrishyeon]

Update

Thank you all gents, for advices. I heard from Herr Aust and he recommended to try a soft wood and polishing paste. He also said, if I can't remove it myself, I can send the blade back and he will remove it for me.

 

[Chrishyeon]

The shift in color hue looks like it got hot enough to show temper coloring, meaning the edge steel there got to about 200 degrees Celsius or hotter. Now, the following is purely conjecture. From the 3d picture it looks as if the corner is blueish and the color shifts to golden near the edge. To me that suggests that the corner was rounded after final grinding. This is not abnormal. It's something I regularly do because it's easier to first grind the hollows, and then shape the heel and toe. This way you end up with crisp geometry. Doing the rounding first and then grinding and polishing can lead to wonky geometry because there is a tendency to scrape over the ends while sanding.

Anyway, the fact that it seems to shift to golden suggests that while the temperature in the corner got pretty high, the temperature on the edge didn't go above normal tempering levels of ~200 degrees Celsius. In other words, in that case it would be harmless and not affect the temper in any way. Buffing would have removed this and the fact that a sliver remains is likely an oversight. Minor aesthetic, functionally harmless flaw.

You'll notice I use a lot of careful words like 'seems' and 'suggests'. Without looking in person I can only go by the pictures so all of this is basically educated guessing, based on what I know about razor making, but without knowing how Herr Aust makes his razors, specifically. If you really want to know, send him an email.

Thank you for very detailed suggestions. What actually is buffing? How can I do this? Herr Aust recommended to use a piece of soft wood and polishing paste to remove this - I have never worked with/on a steel before.

 

[Acmemfg]

Flitz is a good choice. Simichrome yet another. Maas may work as well but I have had better luck with the first two

 

[Chrishyeon]

Dear gents,

I am happy to report that the Herr Aust's advice worked! Happy with the result. Thank you all.

 

[Chrishyeon]

A birth mark.

no more birth mark, mate

 

[Chrishyeon]

Flitz is a good choice. Simichrome yet another. Maas may work as well but I have had better luck with the first two

I had similar metal polish and it worked very well. Thank you once again!

 

[Katatsumuri]

Buffing is basically when you have a circular cloth or felt wheel attached to a mandrel, loaded with some polishing compound, and you hold something against it while the wheel is spinning. The point of buffing is to remove surface blemishes and to polish the surface.

Herr Aust does this. Anyone who makes a shiny piece of steel does, at some point. But as he pointed out: functionally it doesn't do anything that you can't replicate with a piece of balsa wood, polishing compound, elbow grease and patience. On the surface of things, buffers seem very useful machines. And they are. But speed + polishing compound -> heat. Many restorers have destroyed razors in a flash of blue and purple tempering colors, because the heat builds up sudden, and razors don't weigh a whole lot. If you don't have prior experience using one, you should never use one on a good razor.

Or at all, for that matter. Buffing machines are evil. 'Annabelle' type evil. Buffers are easily the most dangerous machine in any shop. They are just biding their time to maim you. The wheels are relatively small, and the motors tend to be fairly strong. This means the amount of torque is high, and the cotton or felt wheels have enough drag to grab hold of whatever is in your hands, and throw it right back you.

Over at SRP, more than a decade ago, there was one bladesmith who would have been a eunuch if not for a heavy leather apron. Another one spiked his foot with a hunting knife. And that is not even the worst that can happen. The assistant of someone who used to be at SRP had his thumb ripped out and thrown in his face. Now that I think of it, I also know a guy who was polishing the forging scale off an S hook with a wire wheel on a buffer. The wheel grabbed the hook, and half of his index finger was severed.

 

[Chrishyeon]

Buffing is basically when you have a circular cloth or felt wheel attached to a mandrel, loaded with some polishing compound, and you hold something against it while the wheel is spinning. The point of buffing is to remove surface blemishes and to polish the surface.

Herr Aust does this. Anyone who makes a shiny piece of steel does, at some point. But as he pointed out: functionally it doesn't do anything that you can't replicate with a piece of balsa wood, polishing compound, elbow grease and patience. On the surface of things, buffers seem very useful machines. And they are. But speed + polishing compound -> heat. Many restorers have destroyed razors in a flash of blue and purple tempering colors, because the heat builds up sudden, and razors don't weigh a whole lot. If you don't have prior experience using one, you should never use one on a good razor.

Or at all, for that matter. Buffing machines are evil. 'Annabelle' type evil. Buffers are easily the most dangerous machine in any shop. They are just biding their time to maim you. The wheels are relatively small, and the motors tend to be fairly strong. This means the amount of torque is high, and the cotton or felt wheels have enough drag to grab hold of whatever is in your hands, and throw it right back you.

Over at SRP, more than a decade ago, there was one bladesmith who would have been a eunuch if not for a heavy leather apron. Another one spiked his foot with a hunting knife. And that is not even the worst that can happen. The assistant of someone who used to be at SRP had his thumb ripped out and thrown in his face. Now that I think of it, I also know a guy who was polishing the forging scale off an S hook with a wire wheel on a buffer. The wheel grabbed the hook, and half of his index finger was severed.

I have nothing but respect for them blade smiths. I once saw a documentary of Japanese swords making tradition and how they are made - it is a pure dedication and love; without the passion for sharp and strong edge, one can never endure the demanding, dangerous too, processes.

Thank you for sharing your inputs and experience.

 

[Biltong & Boerewors]

Buffing machines are evil. 'Annabelle' type evil.

Agree with your statement about the danger of buffing machines. Any amateur like me that did some work on it, very quickly learn to respect them and always make sure that the buffing direction is away from any potential sharp corners or edges that may grab the buffing wheel. What increases the danger is that I use bare hands to make sure I am not overheating the blade, if it's too hot to touch, I stop and wait for it to cool down.

Had a few close encounters, but so far no blood spilt, and no project ruined.

 

[Katatsumuri]

One of the worst accidents I know about involved a rolling mill, which is basically 2 powered wheels that can be used to roll billets flat. If you're not careful or simply unlucky, you can get your tongs caught and have them pulled through the rolling mill. But if you put cold steel through a mill, it gets expelled with great force. The story I heard from someone who knew the people involved is that someone was unlucky enough to be walking past the back of the mill when that happened, and the tongs went clean through his torso (stomach iirc) and he died on the spot.