Outstanding choice!!
I was completely unaware that his stock was quarried before the green label norton hard Arks. It make perfect sense though because of the dozens of Arks I have around here, Dan's are the only ones that compare to old Norton or pike hard Arks.
The one that is coming here is a red-boxed version. Fingers crossed that it is good for razors. Always a roll of the dice with quarried stones...
Other than using it with oil, did you find there was anything squirrelly about prepping the stone? I'm expecting garden-variety flattening and surface dressing.
Absolutely; in fact I had a current Norton Trans a few years ago and it was top flight. Several from the 90s were just as good. I know someone who recently purchased a new-new trans, 6x2" I think - gorgeous stone, works like it should and stands shoulder to shoulder with the old-school stuff.Surprised to hear this. The 70’s-80’s era Nortons are spectacular stones from my experience.
I have a bizarre fixation with Arkansas slip stones for some reason. I have an old pike that is other-worldly to hone on just as far as the vibe goes. Lots of mojo for sure. Then I have a current production Norton Hard/Trans slip stone that’s a little smaller but still engaging to hone on and honestly offers up a nice smoothing effect on disagreeable steels that are hard to smooth out otherwise. In fact I don’t do a lot of work beyond just sweetening the edge a little after a 10,000 synthetic. As soon as the edge has chilled out a bit I usually get off the stone.My norton translucent slip stone kicks up swarf very fast for a finishing stone. It's the only translucent I have that will cut steel so fast. My black norton slip stone is also faster than my black from Dan's. The black one is 5" and I can do 20-30 laps with lather and it's good to go.
Pressure is an important point with these stones that others could weigh in on too but here’s my take….I have wanted to get one of each, but something similar have been spinning in my head.
If the surface is prepared similarly, and you only use finishing pressure, how much difference can there be between the different grades (hard, true hard and translucent)?
If you are able to play with higher pressure, like you do when you are honing a knife, I would think the difference would be bigger.
That makes sense to me.Pressure is an important point with these stones that others could weigh in on too but here’s my take….
More pressure can/may help seemingly slow stones cut faster like leaning into a chisel on a translucent for example. Even the high-end polishing stones will definitely remove steel but are often pressure-dependent. The problem is that you just can’t use tool sharpening pressure on straight razors or you’ll wind up with flex issues and other problems. I suspect that’s why most people suggest to take the razor as far out as you can with fast acting synthetics so that a finishing level Arkansas stone can continue to develop the edge without the need for higher than usual pressure.
The problem is that you just can’t use tool sharpening pressure on straight razors or you’ll wind up with flex issues and other problems. I suspect that’s why most people suggest to take the razor as far out as you can with fast acting synthetics so that a finishing level Arkansas stone can continue to develop the edge without the need for higher than usual pressure.
Only because I've slowed down on them!I’m sure that Dan will still have a few stones left when you finally come to your senses.
I'd use the ark after the 1um, not in place of it.Bit of a hijack… I’m seriously thinking about getting an ark as my first finisher. Right now I use film, my usual progression for honing is 12-9-3-1um, and I’ll touch up on the 1um only. The ark would replace the 1um film in the progression and for touchups. Would that work? Anything to watch out for with a mixed film and ark progression?
I think @Seelector is referring to using the Ark for only touch-up instead of using the the 1μm for touch-up. He would still be using his 1μm film in his normal honing progression.I'd use the ark after the 1um, not in place of it.
A hard Arkansas would work really as a finisher following the film progression. You would not need the 1 micron film anymore for touch ups. As started above, you’re best going all the way through to 1 micron film prior to going to the Ark.Bit of a hijack… I’m seriously thinking about getting an ark as my first finisher. Right now I use film, my usual progression for honing is 12-9-3-1um, and I’ll touch up on the 1um only. The ark would replace the 1um film in the progression and for touchups. Would that work? Anything to watch out for with a mixed film and ark progression?
I originally meant using the Ark instead of 1um film for both the progression and touch ups. No 1um film used for anything.I think @Seelector is referring to using the Ark for only touch-up instead of using the the 1μm for touch-up. He would still be using his 1μm film in his normal honing progression.
100% true. Earlier tonight I was giving my MK24 touchup on 3um and 1um and used lighter pressure than I normally do. It ended up as sharp as anything I’ve ever honed. It was easy and quick and felt like a real breakthrough. I think I’ve been using too much pressure on films this whole time.The film is slightly compressible and the layer of water under the film adds to this effect. You want to use light pressure on the films and make sure that you don’t convex the edge.
As far as touchups go it will really depend on the condition of the edge--how much touchup it needs and why. You can always try it and see what works for you.I originally meant using the Ark instead of 1um film for both the progression and touch ups. No 1um film used for anything.
This seems to be wrong though. Better to use it as a post finisher after 1um film, and also use it for touch ups. I want to say this is what I’ll do, but I’d need to buy one first