Bevel Setting

[camoloc]

the beater is a H.M. Darling. it was relatively cheap. my hope is that it turns out well and is usable......if not I'm into it for not much of a loss. the positive would be gaining a nice razor I brought back from the dead myself. I figured the steel on this should be fairly good to learn with. I'm going to unpin and clean up the blade some for the experience.

the Torrey........well i like Torrey's and did not know they made one with fancy scales named "the artist." for the $.....this is a sweet razor to me.

doesnt look like it will take much other than bevel set and honing. In reality wont know until both birds are in the hand.

camo

guess the best way to put it is.......the Darling is the first razor I have bought not wanting to shave with a soon as possible. bought with the express intent of a learning or "project" razor.......with an acceptable risk for loss if something went drastically wrong. but then again, this isn't rocket science (maybe it is).......I figure i should eventually be able to figure this deal out.

this is a victim/candidate for me.

my other choice would have been GD 208........I like antiques so figured I'm better getting to know antique steel.

camo

 

[global_dev]

Gotcha, that torrey looks nice, be careful with that bevel, from right to left looks very different.

 

[camoloc]

bought both the shapton 1.5 Kuromaku and the King 1k........

while the king has less fanfare.......I won't know until I evaluate. the plus side is I have lotsa pointy objects that the king can be used for if found to be not to my liking.

camo

 

[Aldwyn]

Or you can dull it out a bit and use it to make slurry!

 

[thombrogan]

bought both the shapton 1.5 Kuromaku and the King 1k.......

The King 1K is great for knives (pocketknives, cooking knives, chopping knives…). Here’s hoping it (or your Shapton 1.5k) is a bevel-setting lynchpin.

15μ lapping film over acrylic worked for me. Had 40μ at the ready in case it got lippy.

 

[Ice-Man]

Just to add you will need a lapping plate for those, more so the king but I cannot say anything bad. As I did start off with king stones and I do still have them. Not used anymore

 

[jj_sharp]

I have only sharpened perhaps 7 razors. Speed is not required with the small sample size.

I have removed chips (and consequently set the bevel) on a barbers hone. It took hours, maybe all of a long afternoon.

Another time that I had to correct an edge, I went with a 4 sided harbor freight diamond block. It worked great. I followed that with some sort of natural Arkansas stone, and then a translucent Arkansas chip (small, broken piece).

The latter would be my approach to fixing a wonky edge. I have also used the latter approach on gold dollar razors. That is my favorite way at this time, subject to change in the future. J.

 

[camoloc]

You can "listen" with your fingers - although for me that only works with natural stones. With synths I have to rely on visual inspection and testing mainly.

The turning point for me with honing was watching @Gamma 's video on bevel setting. Not so much what he says in the video but what he does. Now I don't hone like Gamma at all (always hone in hand, my razor grip is different, I use some other techniques I have picked up from other honemeisters), and I just don't understand how he can read synthetic stones like he does. BUT. But if you watch how he holds and moves the razor on the stone in that video, it will tell you everything you need to know about honing I believe. Well - that's how it worked for me. From that moment on I was able to understand what was going wrong with my own technique and adapt and develop it.

I highly recommend reading all the advice you can here and then going back to watch that video from time to time. At some point what he is doing will suddenly make sense.

thanks for this tip.

huge shout out to @Gamma !!!!!

camo

 

[camoloc]

Now that you have seen some pics, let me point out that pics alone do not truly prove the bevel. They only indicate that it is probably good, and interpretation of edge pics can be somewhat subjective and even deceptive. A lot depends on angle of incidence between light source, bevel, and eye. Concentration of light source. Ambient lighting. Optics. Scratch pattern.

It must be remembered that you do not hone an edge to admire its appearance. You hone an edge to shave with it. So the only meaningful test is some sort of shaving test. This, too, is very subjective but subjective in a personally relevant way. Arm hair should shave very easily though it probably won't treetop over about 1/32" at best. One thing, though. Shaving your forearm successfully does not mean that there are no chips or very small areas of undeveloped bevel. So visual inspection is still essential. And finally there is the face shave. I will admit I do not relish the thought of shaving with a 1k edge, but without a doubt it is a very good test. You SHOULD be ABLE to shave your face with a well set bevel. It won't be nothing nice but it should be doable and if it isn't, then some more work is needed, probably at light pressure and with care to not create any fin edge. If the bevel looks good it is at least almost done, so not much more work should be required, no heavy lifting involved.

thanks for the tip

huge shout out to @Slash McCoy

camo

 

[RumpleBearskin]

The turning point for me with honing was watching @Gamma 's video on bevel setting.

Where might one find this influential bit if videography?

 

[Ice-Man]

Where might one find this influential bit if videography?

Right here

 

[camoloc]

Right here

that would be it......he calls out a lot of BS'ers and whatever......

but speaks the truth about the basics. its done when it's done.

camo

 

[ClemsonTigerz]

that would be it......he calls out a lot of BS'ers and whatever......

but speaks the truth about the basics. it done when it's done.

camo

“Captain Poo-bah”

 

[RumpleBearskin]

Right here

Awesome! Thanks.