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Bevel setting with lapping film

I have been working on a Shumate for the past few hours, attempting to set the bevel.
The bevel seems straight, I laid it down on a granite surface, pressed every corner with my fingers and made sure it doesn't wiggle.
I watched a few videos that are on Youtube, trying to replicate Slash McCoy's technique (here is the video).
I've been reading that 12 micron lapping film is a good starting point for setting the bevel, so that's the one I am using (the 3M one, Aluminum Oxide), on a granite bullnose tile.
After what could have been 400 laps, I can't shave an arm's hair to save my life. I do see the blur from honing, keep the film wet, apply some pressure like in the video, keep spine down.
What could I be missing? Should I start with a more coarse lapping film (15 or even 30 micron?)?
 
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If you can see the bur on the edge, you have more than set the bevel. You now have a wire edge, but that's OK. Very gently make a few more laps on the film to remove the bur. If you apply a lot of pressure you will just increase the bur. You want to get rid of the bur and leave a clean bevel. Keep doing very light pressure laps until the bur is gone. Try the arm hair after every 10 or 12 laps. When the bur is gone it will start popping hairs on your arm. Move on to finer grit films.

The tendency, in the beginning, is to work harder and apply more pressure when we should be backing off the pressure. Hope this helps.
 
I didn't think I could use sandpaper to set the bevel. What grit do you use? Do I need to wet it like I do the lapping film?
 
Sometimes someone has honed the razor with tape on the spine.
In that case it can be a good idea to pot tape on the spine and see if you get a bevel pretty fast.

You can try a force including the weight of razor around 150g/5 ounce

Another thing can be that you get much of the force to the spine and little at the edge. Check for spine wear before you start honing and see if it change to fast or is/get uneven.

Watch for even water flow in front of the spine.

Are you doing edge leading strokes?

I like Lynn Abrams video when he puts on a bevel.
 
Thanks, I'll make an attempt with the tape!
I also just ordered some 3M lapping film (30 and 15 micron, silicon carbide) ;)
 
1k grit wet/dry will set a bevel just fine. I don't glue the paper but hone under running water instead when I use sandpaper. The running water holds it down perfectly in my experience.

I only do this when an edge has a bad problem like a chip or frown, though, and I start at 320 or 400 grit, not 1k. And I will usually give it a few laps on 2k W/D at the end to more quickly remove the low-grit scratches before moving on to a 1k stone.
 
(there's nothing magic about those numbers BTW, it's just the W/D finishing paper grit progression my hardware store has: 320, 400, 600, 1k, 2k :)
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
I didn't think I could use sandpaper to set the bevel. What grit do you use? Do I need to wet it like I do the lapping film?

Here is a link to a thread from several years back, that got my attention concerning wet/dry sandpaper.

http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/190318-How-long-does-it-take-to-set-the-bevel

If you are going to own many razors or refurbish older straights, purchasing a 600 and 1200 DMT is the best and easiest way to go. I have only owned 3 Straights in the last 4 years. Once bevels are set, maintaining a razor's edge with film is pretty simple and long term.

I only have two traditional straights now and have only honed 4 bevels in that same amount of time. I like shaving with straights and shavette's, I just don't ever seem to have the time, patience or inclination to acquire the skill set of honing butter smooth razor edges on stones.

Film is a fool proof method for guys like me, to enjoy a great shave without having to send my razors out to a Honemeister.
 
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