The importance of a properly set bevel has been rightfully emphasized on several threads recently. But how to know, that a bevel really is properly set. Until now, I've always just done the glass dulling test. Meaning that I dulled the edge on the rim of a glass until it would no longer shave arm's hair. Then I went to my bevel setter (a 1K Naniwa, usually, a coticule now and then) and honed until it would shave arm's hair along the length of the blade. Lately, I'm not sure if this us enough since I had some frustrating experiences with edges that needed some more work (completely dull or breadknived razors or razors that needed a new bevel angle). How much further should I go? Honing on the 1K until it would pass a HHT or using a different test such as the burr method?
Bevel setting tests
- Thread starter Thomas Martin
- Start date
Tomatoes are the way to go. 1K until it can easily cut into a small tomato without much pressure. I have stopped the arm hair or HHT when setting bevels. You can also use the thumb pad test or thumb nail. I like both better than shaving arm hair for practical reasons. I use HHT after honing and stropping.
If I can comfortably shave arm hair off a 1000 grit hone then I'm happy that the bevel has been properly set. Most of your sharpness but little of your smoothness comes from setting the bevel correctly.
I usually just use the Thumb Pad Test. Once you have it dialed in, the TPT can tell you everything you need to know IMHO. Basically once you think you have the bevel set, you would take your Thumb Pad and move it across the edge side -to-side (not parallel with the edge). I have found that if the bevel is set, I will feel a certain 'stickiness' and it will feel like the edge is grabbing the Thumb Pad. It really is a test that you have to 'dial in', but once you start to notice what a set bevel feels like when doing the TPT it'll all start to make sense....
You can save a lot of arm hair by dialing in your TPT!! The above recommendations (tomato, arm hair, etc...) are very good ones too though...
You can save a lot of arm hair by dialing in your TPT!! The above recommendations (tomato, arm hair, etc...) are very good ones too though...
I first look for a good undercut on my chosera 1k, all along the length of the edge. Then I shave arm hair (I have a ton of it, so it's no loss).
After that I do some very light strokes on the chosera under running water, don't know if it's really true but to me this seems to make my work on the 3k a bit less time-consuming. Also, when I go to my 3k (a natural), if the bevel is set well there is a distinctive stickiness on the stone right away.
After that I do some very light strokes on the chosera under running water, don't know if it's really true but to me this seems to make my work on the 3k a bit less time-consuming. Also, when I go to my 3k (a natural), if the bevel is set well there is a distinctive stickiness on the stone right away.
This
I love my cherry tomato for this, you can test every little bit of the edge. I properly set bevel slices through easily, the lightest resistance and it need more work.
Steve56
Ask me about shaving naked!
Interesting comments, I'm going to have to try the tomato test. Here's a problem I encounter more frequently than I like: By inspection, I seem to have the bevel set well, and go through the rest of honing, but miss something. At the end, I use the HHT test because thehair is small and can test small portions of the edge. In a specific case, I found the edge did not pass HHT at the toe, and upon close inspection, I see a "bright" reflection on one side that's indicating the hone did not properly hit the last 2-3mm of the toe.
Will the tomato, or other test allow you to test such a small portion of the edge? What tests will?
Cheers, Steve
Will the tomato, or other test allow you to test such a small portion of the edge? What tests will?
Cheers, Steve
It stands to reason that since the tomato is round and a cherry or grape tomato is small, the blade will have a small area touching. Since you have dialed in on your problem area, you can focus on it in the test. If it doesn't work to your liking, make a salad.
keep with it
keep with it
I've never done a TPT with movement perpendicular to the edge. I always ran my thumb "parallel" to the edge, in a slicing motion. Doing so, but not really moving very much at all, is where I feel the stickiness (or lack thereof).
+1 on the TPT. When you feel that the edge sticks, bites and grabs on the pad of your thumb bevel is set. After the TPT I also like to do a little arm/leg hair test to confirm.
Sometimes, like once in a blue moon, I'll shave a couple of hairs off the back of my hand, but normally I just go by the standard indicators.
I would be more inclined to 'test' the bevel if I was using a new stone or something. Then I'd probably use TPT and TNT to confirm what everything else is telling me. Haven't had to do that in a good long while though.
I would be more inclined to 'test' the bevel if I was using a new stone or something. Then I'd probably use TPT and TNT to confirm what everything else is telling me. Haven't had to do that in a good long while though.
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- Thread starter
- #14
What about that burr business?
I rarely develop a burr but if I think that I've abused one side too much then I run my finger from spine off the end of the edge... You'll feel it grip
But off the 1k I use the finger nail test or see if it grips the HHT and not necessarily cut it...
When resetting the bevel on a formally shave ready blade, un damaged, unchipped; I see Doc knows without having to test- do more of you know that? What kinda hone do you use?
( I am still learning the bevel set on a chos1k )
I do it till the water undercut and maybe 10 more, and it's good enough for me, then again i'm far from knowing the best edge from my own hand.
( I am still learning the bevel set on a chos1k )
I do it till the water undercut and maybe 10 more, and it's good enough for me, then again i'm far from knowing the best edge from my own hand.
Just watch out with the undercut, I've had undercuts plenty of times when the edge wasn't even close to being where it should.
+1 if it's a full hollow sometimes it'll suck water over the razor by capillary action
Undercut is easy to read incorrectly.
Like anything else in this game, it has to be learned and the conditions have to be correct.
Simply watching water crest over the edge isn't going to cut it.
Undercut is most telling when there's almost no water/slurry on the stone.
You can get undercut easily on a stone with a lot of water on it - which is a false-positive.
The thickness of the slurry affects how it acts.
So does the grind of the blade.
As well as the speed of the stroke and whether or not the stone is level.
The main thing to note is the 'type' of undercut and whether or not it's across the entire edge.
This can be difficult if the blade has a smile or a warp.
Like anything else in this game, it has to be learned and the conditions have to be correct.
Simply watching water crest over the edge isn't going to cut it.
Undercut is most telling when there's almost no water/slurry on the stone.
You can get undercut easily on a stone with a lot of water on it - which is a false-positive.
The thickness of the slurry affects how it acts.
So does the grind of the blade.
As well as the speed of the stroke and whether or not the stone is level.
The main thing to note is the 'type' of undercut and whether or not it's across the entire edge.
This can be difficult if the blade has a smile or a warp.
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