Better Straights

[BillC]

So I'm several weeks into this and I'm hooked - haven't so much as touched a DE/SE once I got over the little speed bump of being able to shave my chin and under my nose. No looking back now.

So I've already accumulated a few "entry level" straights. Paid mostly $50 or less for each of them and get a great shave with any of them. Going forward, what makes a straight 'better' or at least worth more money? I understand the aesthetics - etching on the blades, nicer scales, worked spines, etc. But what are the quality issues that separate a $300 straight from the $50 ones I have now? For the folks here with significant collections what drives your choices of blades you purchase and keep?

 

[ANeat]

One a level of "quality" is reached in a straight everything else is just icing on the cake so to speak. Good metal at a proper hardness, straight, sharp where its supposed to be. After that you get into collect-ability and pride of ownership. Vintage blades. custom blades made to your specs, swedish, french, german, american, spanish, etc etc..... something for everyones taste and budget really.

You can stick a DE blade on a chopstick and get the same shave.

 

[fsturnz]

I'm still new at straight shaving as well, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. I'm not yet into the collectability phase. I already have 6 straights: a sight unseen from whipped dog, a nice but inexpensive straight bought off the BST, a couple older, not so pretty straights that I got off ebay (mostly to learn how to hone) and I just rewarded myself with a brand new Dovo Special. They all have wildly different appearances, but the shave is fairly similar with all of them. My current favorites are the new Dovo, and the Taylor I got of fthe BST. I like the feel of them, the weight of the scales versus the blade, and they happen to be the nicest in appearance as well. The type of grind is said to make a big difference in the shave, but my Taylor is 3/4 grind,and the Dovo is full hollow ground, and I can't say the difference is perceptable to me. So maybe someday I'll reward myself with a $300 dollar razor with gold leaf and a fancy case, just to be able to hold it in my hands. But for now, I'm very comfortable with the blades I have...and don't really see the reason for spending more.....yet!

 

[Brianskeet]

Have to add my two cents! For quality and lasting value I would look hard at Hart steel. I have three and love them all. The blades are perfectly tempered and perfectly ground. Makes them easy to care for and easy to hone. In addition they are a semi custom shop and all the blades are made by a single artisan craftsman. 100% made in the USA which still matters to me. I have other razors including some vintage blades, but my Hart's are pure quality all the way.

 

[BillC]

I like the looks of the Hart Steel razors, just trying to understand what you get/what to look for in more expensive straights. If it's just aesthetics I'm sure I'll end up picking up one or two nicer straights; if there's shaving quality differences (beyond blade sizes and grinds) and like to understand that before I start to spend more on razors

 

[Gamma]

Don't over think it.
If you like a razor - and you want it - then buy it.

 

[Legion]

Some of my best shaving razors cost less than $50. There are still lots of bargains to be had if you are prepared to speculate on vintage brands nobody has heard of.

 

[life2short1971]

I advise you to ask the advice of someone with a good bit of straight razor knowledge before you spend a fair amount on a razor on eBay or other places. Many of us will be happy to give you an opinion without scooping your find. Don't be in a hurry to spend a lot on a razor wait for the deal to come to you.

 

[oakeshott]

Don't over think it.
If you like a razor - and you want it - then buy it.

Second this approach. Think of it as dating serendipity. There's lots of variety for under 30 bucks and if you learn to hone, then you'll never exhaust all the excellent vintage razors you can try for under 20. Over time, your preferences will emerge and you'll have a much smaller list of things you are looking for. Sell the ones that fall out of favor for what you paid and they will fund other purchases.

I advise you to ask the advice of someone with a good bit of straight razor knowledge before you spend a fair amount on a razor on eBay or other places. Many of us will be happy to give you an opinion without scooping your find. Don't be in a hurry to spend a lot on a razor wait for the deal to come to you.

"Let the deal come to you." Good advice. There are constantly good razors on the BST and ebay. Maybe not at the moment you want one, but eventually.

 

[Brianskeet]

A Hart razor is pricey no doubt, but top shelf steel ground by experienced hands and hardened and tempered to perfection is worth the money to me. Love my vintage blades too, but for ease of use and ease of maintaining I would recommend you put a Hart on your list. not wrong to have a long list I only have 8 razors at the moment, but number nine is coming soon!

 

[wquiles]

A Hart razor is pricey no doubt, but top shelf steel ground by experienced hands and hardened and tempered to perfection is worth the money to me. Love my vintage blades too, but for ease of use and ease of maintaining I would recommend you put a Hart on your list.

+1

I "really" like my 7/8 Square Point Hart. Great shaver!

 

[rickboone1]

Would any chopstick work? I think I'm going to throw my razors out and use chopsticks with a DE blade stuck on them. I like that idea.

 

[atlanta_hoo]

To follow up on what others have said, if you buy vintage, condition should be your primary concern over "brand name." It is quite easy for a neophyte to enter a multitude of the internet message fora using a search engine query of "best straight razor" and come across several postings of "I have a boker, gold dollar, Dorko, Dovo, etc...and it is the best one i have ever used....." This tends to lead to an immediate search on ebay for those looking for the "best". I cannot say that I did not do the same in my initial journey into straight razor shaving. The best advice I could personally give to someone starting out is to set a price limit in mind for one's first several purchases. I regularly see a plethora of perfectly acceptable, yet rarely talked about razors sell for good prices on e-bay. The key is to closely inspect the photographs and to steer clear of auctions that do not clearly show the condition of the blade in terms of chipping, cracking, hone wear and evidence of power sanding.

I am sure all of us have watched ebay or other sites and marveled at the prices someone will pay for a razor of highly regarded pedigree (based upon the opinions expressed on the internet fora) that will never shave a whisker for the new owner based upon the severe flaws of the blade (and will only lead to the new owner to blame his budding honing skills and not the severely compromised blade that everyone else "says is the best!" for his failure). Similarly, I am sure that we have all salivated at the sight of a pristine razor save for the one flea bite in the edge (that will hone out in under half an hour with some knowledge) that has caused the price to stay shockingly low, all things considered. If you go the vintage route, most brands will give an acceptable shave, the issue then becomes which razor has been neglected, over-used or abused prior to coming to you.

 

[Kentos]

A DE on a chopstick is actually a pretty lousy shave

As long as the blade is in good shape, price is dictated by desireability IMO

 

[Legion]

Also, sometimes the razor you like most might not technically be the best. My go to razor is just one I like, for a variety of reasons. It shaves no better than many in my collection. But I get a good result from it, and I like it, so that makes it my "best". But it is such a subjective thing. I've bought many razors for higher prices, telling myself it will be better because of that, but it often (usually) aint so.

 

[Dave Colangelo]

As an engineer I will give you an engineering answer,

For me its all about metal quality and the razors ability to hold an edge as well as ergonomics. Think about DE's for a minute. My favorite is a Gillette slim handle adjustable, I have used about 30 different DE's form all era's though history that I have collected. The slim handle offers me the most versatility in a DE (as any adjustable would). I have not tried any of the new merkur adjustable ones because I found my slim handle for $8 at a flea market and cant bring my self to drop $100 for a new adjustable.

Back to the point. Steel quality has many factors. When it comes to stainless steel there are various types depending on the amount of chromium that is put into the mix. The more chromium the more rust resistant the metal will be but the more expensive it will be as well. The steel quality will also help the razor hold its edge and inevitably reflect on shave quality and comfort. I come from a knife background and the better the steel the less often I have to sharpen/hone the knife as it holds an edge much better. Ergonomics are also something to think about. A razor should feel comfortable and balanced in your hand and easy to use. An increase in price may also give you more options in terms of blades and blade shapes you can chose from.

All this being said I'm sure there are good straights out there for good prices. I am a big collector of antique shaving stuff and I find decent straights at antique shows for the $10-$30 range all day long. I am having a few honed as we speak, ill review when I get them back.

Regards
Dave

 

[Tierdaen]

As an engineer I will give you an engineering answer,

For me its all about metal quality and the razors ability to hold an edge as well as ergonomics. Think about DE's for a minute. My favorite is a Gillette slim handle adjustable, I have used about 30 different DE's form all era's though history that I have collected. The slim handle offers me the most versatility in a DE (as any adjustable would). I have not tried any of the new merkur adjustable ones because I found my slim handle for $8 at a flea market and cant bring my self to drop $100 for a new adjustable.

Back to the point. Steal quality has many factors. When it comes to stainless steal there are various types depending on the amount of chromium that is put into the mix. The more chromium the more rust resistant the metal will be but the more expensive it will be as well. The steal quality will also help the razor hold its edge and inevitably reflect on shave quality and comfort. I come from a knife background and the better the steal the less often I have to sharpen/hone the knife as it holds an edge much better. Ergonomics are also something to think about. A razor should feel comfortable and balanced in your hand and easy to use. An increase in price may also give you more options in terms of blades and blade shapes you can chose from.

All this being said I'm sure there are good straights out there for good prices. I am a big collector of antique shaving stuff and I find decent straights at antique shows for the $10-$30 range all day long. I am having a few honed as we speak, ill review when I get them back.

Regards
Dave

I'm not sure what kind of engineering was involved with that answer. The steel (steal?) composition bit?

 

[Dave Colangelo]

Not much I guess but I was looking at it from a point of usage and materials, I know many people who pay a great deal for quality when that money mainly goes to ornate nice looking pieces they don't necessarily perform any better.

Regards
Dave

 

[Cartier]

I've heard much about Hart steel but I'd like to point out Jeness' work as well if we are going to get in that realm of money.

 

[global_dev]

i find i enjoy the shave more with a 6/8s+ blade. a 5/8s can cut it no prob (pun intended), and some guys like it smaller (no pun intended), but picking up a 8/8s extra hollow double bellied blade honed to "perfection" is like nothing else and is not everyone's cup o' tea. it just feels and shaves different and to me it's "better". but I have been wowed by some pretty "utility" looking straights.