best tips

[neiasden]

when people start something new, they do things people recommend, but they make it their own. what are your best tips that you have found as you learn to restore and hone razors? I took a board put a pin in it to hold the blade. I put pin so the Tang would hang over the edge of the board. I then put a pin on each side of the shank to hold the blade in place as I sanded. I did this because of my multiple sclerosis and I do it in bed.

I think a thread on tips would be good. no matter what you're doing polishing, making scales. I do most things by hand with no power even using a pen vise to make the holes. I cut my scales with a jeweler saw. I need all the tips I can get. and even though there are so many great people on here, there are some that rather than answer they comment in an effort to start controversy. you know who you are. find somewhere else to go you're not wanted here.

 

[rbscebu]

Just out of curiosity, what is that base your SR blade is resting on?

I am currently working on cleaning up and polishing an old sadly abused Bengall SR blade given to me by @aussie.

So far I have reprofile the point to a French style. I did this underwater using a Dremel and flexible extension with grinding wheel. Doing it underwater prevents the metal from heating up. Steel at even 200°C can be adversely changed at about that temperature.

So far it's looking pretty good.

More polishing yet to be done. Then I will be attempting to make my first set of scales from scratch.

 

[Gamma]

Three tips
1 - read through all the 'sticky' threads
2 - wear eye protection when using a dremel
3 - I use two-sided tape to hold scales together when rough shaping

 

[aussie]

Just out of curiosity, what is that base your SR blade is resting on?

I am currently working on cleaning up and polishing an old sadly abused Bengall SR blade given to me by @aussie.

So far I have reprofile the point to a French style. I did this underwater using a Dremel and flexible extension with grinding wheel. Doing it underwater prevents the metal from heating up. Steel at even 200°C can be adversely changed at about that temperature.

So far it's looking pretty good.

View attachment 1566651​

View attachment 1566652


More polishing yet to be done. Then I will be attempting to make my first set of scales from scratch.

Wow you are expending a lot of effort on a blade that is quite rough. I have Bengalls in MUCH better condition than this one.

 

[rbscebu]

Wow you are expending a lot of effort on a blade that is quite rough. I have Bengalls in MUCH better condition than this one.

So do I (9 Bengalls in my rotation) but I am enjoying the restoration challenge. Once finished, if I don't become too attached to it, I will PIF it to a B&B member.

 

[HazMat Shaver]

Sanding blocks

Magnets under the rubber material for the sanding of the face. And use a wine cork as a backer for your sand paper.

I prefer synthetic steal wool. It's less messy.

 

[alpster]

I made a magnetic blade holder for sanding & polishing. No more sliced finger tips. LOL

 

[Herrenberg]

Sanding blocksView attachment 1566732View attachment 1566732
Magnets under the rubber material for the sanding of the face. And use a wine cork as a backer for your sand paper.

I prefer synthetic steal wool. It's less messy.

I thought I just wanted to remove a washita from the wooden case it was glued into. Experts here advised me to split the case with a chisel. Now I want to split it so I wind up with something I can make into your spine-sanding jig.

Say, what is "synthetic steel wool?" I didn't even know there was synthetic steel.

 

[neiasden]

Sanding blocksView attachment 1566732View attachment 1566732
Magnets under the rubber material for the sanding of the face. And use a wine cork as a backer for your sand paper.

I prefer synthetic steal wool. It's less messy.

I don't think I didn't have a magnet but it led me to this

 

[neiasden]

I am in a nursing home so I use what I can get. this was the only piece of wood I could find

 

[neiasden]

I made a magnetic blade holder for sanding & polishing. No more sliced finger tips. LOL

View attachment 1567346View attachment 1567347

I had to settle for a low-tech economy version. this looks nice

 

[neiasden]

Three tips
1 - read through all the 'sticky' threads
2 - wear eye protection when using a dremel
3 - I use two-sided tape to hold scales together when rough shaping

I can't really use a Dremel in here but I use a bench vise and a jeweler saw. I clamp everything down and start sawing

 

[HazMat Shaver]

Synthetic steel wool can be found at big box stores in the paint removal area. It's like Scotchbrite pads but thicker and comes in different grades just like steel wool. 0000, 000, 00.

 

[Frank Shaves]

I posted a few "tips" here:

What's on your work bench right now?

Blue acrylic scales are ready to be fitted.

www.badgerandblade.com

I just made a pair of scales:

1. Scribe the scale pattern using a sharp awl, using double-sided tape to hold the original scale in place. The scribed pattern is way easier to see than a pen or pencil line or glued paper pattern when sanding.
2. To fit the wedge, assemble the razor using miniature bolts/screws and double-sided tape or a toothpick of wood glue to prevent the wedge from slipping. You can then remove the tape or dissolve the glue to allow the wedge to float - like Wade & Butcher did.

sr_manufacture on eBay sells terrific miniature bolts/screws.

 

[Gamma]

I can't really use a Dremel in here...

The tips were not intended to be specific to any one person.

But, in your first or second post on this forum you did say you were using a Dremel in that facility.

 

[duke762]

One thing I've learned restoring straights is that it is easier to ramp up aggression than ramp it down. Damage is done quickly and time consuming to rework.

Another is don't dremel polish anything except the spine back, and the tang, and I don't use it on any of the flats at all.

You can't miss with a progression of quality W/D sand paper and your pointer finger. Use a little WD40 to keep it from loading and creating it's own gouges. By about 1000 to 1500 grit you will see where you've missed with the previous grits. Be prepared to start over with the progression to correct things. And over if needed. And over if you are finicky. And over, over, over(12+ times) if you really want it nice or if your are a OCD and have been a tool maker for 45 years.... Remember to take a break for a day or 2 when your finger wears out and gets sore.

The only time I use a power tool on the blade is absolute final polish. I use a very loosely sewn wheel at low rpm, fairly loose on the shaft with a smidge of white rouge. Hand held, no gloves, so I can detect heat. I don't spend much time on the wheel. Polishing was done before I got there. Just a final brightening of the finish. If it was unavailable, I could skip it.

Most important of all is enjoy yourself! Take your time, relax, don't hurry things. I know you're anxious to see the results, show it to your friends, shave with it. Now is the time to get it where you want it, before you put scales on it. Go as far as you want or don't want.

 

[life2short1971]

Sanding blocksView attachment 1566732View attachment 1566732
Magnets under the rubber material for the sanding of the face. And use a wine cork as a backer for your sand paper.

I prefer synthetic steal wool. It's less messy.

Rubber hose is great for holding sandpaper also and being larger than the cork cover a bit more area as well.