"Blood poisoning from rust." That's an interesting concept; one that I hadn't heard practicing more than 45 years as a medical professional. Usually hematologic infections are caused by blood-borne pathogens, and I'm not aware of any toxicologic effects from iron oxide in normal quantities, ingested or absorbed. FDA, ANSI and NSF as advisory agencies have a role in certifying the chromium content in stainless steel for use in food-contact substances (FCS) - a minimum of 16% I believe - but the exclusive requirement for passivation of medical devices is because of the requirement that laser engraving on those devices remains visible and readable through multiple, rather harsh, sterilization procedures. And passivation is simply the surface corrosion process that protects the metal surface, which occurs without acid treatment or pickling, naturally. The commercial acid "passivation" process here described is to remove any potential left-over iron particles that might be a nidus for corrosion. I have never, for example purposely "passivated" any of my stainless steel cookware, and it seems to be holding up rather well to a combination of heat and a variety of foods. But as I said, anyone is free to do with his or her razor as they choose - it's a free country, last I heard, and if you routinely steam-sterilize your laser-engraved razor, by all means, passivate away. It's just simply not necessary for the applications discussed here.
Best stainless steel safety razor?
- Thread starter Steven Druckman
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"Blood poisoning from rust." That's an interesting concept; one that I hadn't heard practicing more than 45 years as a medical professional. Usually hematologic infections are caused by blood-borne pathogens, and I'm not aware of any toxicologic effects from iron oxide in normal quantities, ingested or absorbed. FDA, ANSI and NSF as advisory agencies have a role in certifying the chromium content in stainless steel for use in food-contact substances (FCS) - a minimum of 16% I believe - but the exclusive requirement for passivation of medical devices is because of the requirement that laser engraving on those devices remains visible and readable through multiple, rather harsh, sterilization procedures. And passivation is simply the surface corrosion process that protects the metal surface, which occurs without acid treatment or pickling, naturally. The commercial acid "passivation" process here described is to remove any potential left-over iron particles that might be a nidus for corrosion. I have never, for example purposely "passivated" any of my stainless steel cookware, and it seems to be holding up rather well to a combination of heat and a variety of foods. But as I said, anyone is free to do with his or her razor as they choose - it's a free country, last I heard, and if you routinely steam-sterilize your laser-engraved razor, by all means, passivate away. It's just simply not necessary for the applications discussed here.
For medical professional arguing against a medically accepted way of reducing blood poisoning and accepted safety method seems pretty odd. I guess the only part of Hypocratic's oath of do no harm applies here in your case Hypo sans crisy. If you want to play the I am authority with no proof card, I used to work in manufacturing and dealt extensively with stainless steel medical instruments we couldn't sell them without passivating them in nitric acid prior to sterilization. FDA would have shut us down if we did. Can I prove that of course not anymore than you can but the FDA standards are the standards and real authority here.
Again, with no ad-hominum attacks, there is no such thing as "blood poisoning" as a medical term. You can have an infection, internal or external, but rust certainly won't cause it, or any other medical issues unless you have hemochromocytosis, and the amount of free iron if you ingested it would be miniscule. Unless you care to provide a reference for same. Yes, rust on a surgical instrument in central sterile supply is concerning - it may indicate moisture has gotten into a pack, contaminating it, because moisture can carry infectious organisms. Rust on an instrument prior to sterilization may inhibit adequate sterilization because of pitting. But no one, to my certain knowledge, has died as a result of "rust" contamination directly into their bloodstream, unless the rust was attached to something, say, like a bayonet or broadsword. And again, the reason FDA would "shut you down" (actually, they couldn't, because unlike OSHA, FDA is not a regulatory agency - they just wouldn't certify your product) is because there is a requirement for the engraving on surgical instruments to be legible, and high-heat steam sterilization is hard on instruments. And I'm not attacking you personally - I don't care what anyone does with their own property. I'm just pointing out that for a stainless steel razor, your recommendation is unnecessary for the longevity of the razor in normal use, and you haven't provided any information that indicates otherwise.
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And now we've gone pretty far afield from the topic, which was "what's the best stainless steel safety razor," and I apologize globally and to the moderators for my part in taking us down another path. My personal preference and vote, with just my experience to date is with Timeless and Raw Shaving, so I would cast my vote for any of their polished SS products. My ATT and iKon razors are stainless, but don't seem to provide the same shave or quality of finish as these two.
+1 on Timeless, can’t believe I forgot to include my 95 OC in my reviews earlier in the thread. They just make works of art, beautiful razors.
I have what Fendrihan "Scientist", being one of the four models that they call "Fendrihan Full Stainless Steel Open Closed Comb Double Edge Safety Razor" (is that name long enough for you?).
The head is just a bit more aggressive than I like, and it has actually damaged blades, like this one:
Maybe that's why the head appears to be on the way to being discontinued. They have a "Mk II" head for it now, which is said to be less aggressive, and has guard bars on both sides.
The point I want to make though, is that the handle (81 g, 95 mm) is the grippiest I've ever used. It would be a good component for a frankenrazor.
The point I want to make though, is that the handle (81 g, 95 mm) is the grippiest I've ever used. It would be a good component for a frankenrazor.
I've been watching this thread to observe others experience with razors. I haven't chimed in because I was testing out some new Black Friday gear.
I'd rank my SS razors:
1. Blackbird SB
2. Timeless 95
3. ATT Windsor H
4. Game Changer 84
5. ATT SE1
6. iKon Deluxe B1 OC
7. Game Changer 68
1-4 get a lot more love than 5-7
I'd rank my SS razors:
1. Blackbird SB
2. Timeless 95
3. ATT Windsor H
4. Game Changer 84
5. ATT SE1
6. iKon Deluxe B1 OC
7. Game Changer 68
1-4 get a lot more love than 5-7
I have what Fendrihan "Scientist", being one of the four models that they call "Fendrihan Full Stainless Steel Open Closed Comb Double Edge Safety Razor" (is that name long enough for you?).
The head is just a bit more aggressive than I like, and it has actually damaged blades, like this one:
Maybe that's why the head appears to be on the way to being discontinued. They have a "Mk II" head for it now, which is said to be less aggressive, and has guard bars on both sides.
The point I want to make though, is that the handle (81 g, 95 mm) is the grippiest I've ever used. It would be a good component for a frankenrazor.
I never tried the Mark I because I found that with other razors, I only use one side of the dual comb. I love my Ikon SBS, but prefer the SB side and never use the OC side anymore. I have heard the Mark I dual is a bit more aggressive on reviews but don’t have personal experience.
Love my Mark II. Looking at your picture, I can’t figure out what could be causing that. Like my other 3 piece razors, if I tighten the Mark II too tightly, it will stick a little at the posts, but that’s it.
Email Fendrihan, they will send you a replacement head. The first one I received had a factory defect in the gap and they sent a replacement head immediately. If there is a QC issue, they own it.
Am also a 'fan' of the Fendrihan MkII. It's excellent value for money (approx $40) & I find it gives me a consistently comfortable and efficient shave.
I like this question. Some of my favorites are not stainless (from Charcoal Goods Level 3 open comb in brass, to Muhle R41 2011 in Zamak, to Timeless .78 in bronze, to Ikon Shavecraft Tech in aluminum), but my favorite stainless are:
PAA DOC Evolution
ATT H2
Paradigm 17-4 (which, I understand, is a high-end stainless)
Timeless .95 open comb
PAA DOC Evolution
ATT H2
Paradigm 17-4 (which, I understand, is a high-end stainless)
Timeless .95 open comb
I agree and the closest thing would be tetanus but for that to happen one would be have to be shaving with a rusty, dirty blade and receive a cut deep enough that bacteria enters the wound.
Apologies for going so far OT.
I find it to be comparable to a Slim at setting 9, at least. Not much difference between the two sides.
Reading this with great interest. I am on the cusp of a next step razor and have looked at most of the ones mentioned here. I real!y enjoy my 37c slant tho and am looking at another one. ATT S1 is on my short list. Any thoughts about the aluminum vs stainless versions? Any other slants to consider?
I did leave out the Asylum Evolution, which is a pretty good SS razor for the money, and a unique design (some would say homage to Darwin, some would say ain't it awful they copied a legend). On the mild-medium side, but if you're not looking for an aggressive razor it's a very nice stainless - maybe in the '89 range. It does come in a more aggressive version I believe ("T" variety), but haven't tried that. And also failed to mention my Feather AS-D2, but it's an interesting head configuration that some may find too mild, and I believe that unlike most of the SS offerings it's cast stainless, except perhaps the handle, and has some sort of coating/plating to protect it, so not traditional polished stainless - still one of my favorite razors to reach for if I've had a bad shave the previous day - you just can't do any damage with it, even with a Feather blade, and in the lower cost range of the high-ends.
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Maybe Merkur's QC isn't what it once was. My son-in-law's 34C is over 10 years old and my Merkur 34G (gold) is 9 years old with no signs of corrosion. I'm on well water which leaves a soap residue, so I take the blade out and wipe the DE down (blotting the blade on a paper towel) after each shave. I doubt my S-I-L, on softer city water, even bothers.
As to Stainless, I switched to a RazoRock Game Changer .68 two months ago. I find the GC only slightly more aggressive, but far more effective, than the 34. I haven't used the 34 since I got the GC. I still break the GC down out of habit to reduce soap residue on the head and base.
As to Stainless, I switched to a RazoRock Game Changer .68 two months ago. I find the GC only slightly more aggressive, but far more effective, than the 34. I haven't used the 34 since I got the GC. I still break the GC down out of habit to reduce soap residue on the head and base.
what base of your Ti 0.68? I order both OC and SB but cannot decide to stay which one.
I had the aluminium calypso in R1 but upgraded to the stainless version with the H1 head.
I found that the stainless steel version glides better over the skin than the aluminium version and now looking back, it makes the calypso feel a bit draggy. So I would suggest paying a little more and going stainless.
I have the solid bar. It is as smooth as a 1957 Tech with a softer face feel and much greater efficiency.
Bump for an old but useful thread. Any updates now its 2022 ?
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