I have limited experiences with using shaving soap. When I got my first brush I was too gentle I think. I find that being more aggressive, not abusive, does the trick.
Being Aggressive with the Brush
- Thread starter Twelvefret
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Ron R
I survived a lathey foreman
1st pass I like to scrub a little more to clean and lift the whiskers and after that I like to paint on the soap for remaining passes!
+1.
Manufacturers of expensive badger brushes often suggest treating their instruments with care, using painting strokes so as not to damage the hair.
I don't own those brushes.
I don't own those brushes.
I suppose it depends on the brush. With a boar, you have to be a bit aggressive because there is so much backbone. Theres a fine line between using enough pressure to work the soap into a lather and pushing the brush beyond the limits of the hairs' backbone and abusing it.
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- #6
Me either.Manufacturers of expensive badger brushes often suggest treating their instruments with care, using painting strokes so as not to damage the hair.
I don't own those brushes.
Use it but not abuse it.
But if you are curious how far you can go I'd buy a smaller tuxedo cheap synthetic and beat the sh.t out of it. You'll be surprised how much it can take, no need to worry.
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But if you are curious how far you can go I'd buy a smaller tuxedo cheap synthetic and beat the sh.t out of it. You'll be surprised how much it can take, no need to worry.
Sent from my RNE-L01 using Tapatalk
I'm fairly aggressive with nice badgers but I avoid swirling motions. I alternate between painting and aggressive back and forth scrubbing. Most of the action/ softness/ scrub/ goodness is at the tips, so pressing too hard kind of defeats the purpose. Adjust your technique to match the properties of the knot. If it's a scrub brush use more pressure, if it's a fluffy silvertip use less pressure.
New brushes take a number of uses to begin picking up and holding lather, so don't necessarily blame your technique for poor performance early on. If your brush begins to develop a donut hole, you are pressing too hard, back off and try some painting. Other than that, experience will be your guide. Enjoy the ride!
New brushes take a number of uses to begin picking up and holding lather, so don't necessarily blame your technique for poor performance early on. If your brush begins to develop a donut hole, you are pressing too hard, back off and try some painting. Other than that, experience will be your guide. Enjoy the ride!
I've graduated to this camp over the years..
I also like to be aggressive with my boars (SOC & Omega 10049). Palm lathering let's me be even more aggressive and quickly build a mound of very nice and uniform lather for many passes.
I do find though that a nice badger brush doesn't require me to be so aggressive and usually builds lather quicker than my boars after the brush is loaded. YMMV as this comparison depends on the soaps, water, the particular brush, how much you load, and just about everything else, I'm sure.
I do find though that a nice badger brush doesn't require me to be so aggressive and usually builds lather quicker than my boars after the brush is loaded. YMMV as this comparison depends on the soaps, water, the particular brush, how much you load, and just about everything else, I'm sure.
I don't crush the brushes, but i have observed that swirling more vigorously a) helps thicken the lather (increases the volume because it mixes more air), b) helps liberate the lather trapped to the bottom of the brush, in combination with painting motions. Swirl-paint left-right, turn the brush 90 degrees paint again and most of the lather comes out and becomes usable. This is useful for the 3rd pass and touch ups.
Affordable synthetic brushes are phenomenal, in many cases.
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- #14
The PAA Atomic Rocket loads quick and retains soap/water well. I like to take it on trips for quick shaves.
