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ATOP's 3-Shave Review: Dr. Harris Arlington Soap and Bowl Update: Shave #2 added (Post#25)

The Harris product is one excellent shaving soap that has not been demolished by reformulations like the three T's, rejoice!
The DRH reformulation (which debuted ~9 months ago) and the T&H reformulation (which debuted ~1.5 years ago) are excellent, ime.
 

nemo

Lunatic Fringe
Staff member
Btw, it's D. R. (Daniel Rotely) Harris.

Thank you, I was hoping someone would comment on the error.

Good stuff, D.R.Harris, five years ago I used it for a month straight and it kept getting better and better!
full
 
My first shave with D.R Harris (Almond) was fantastic.

Of course it will take several more to fully make my opinion, but there's absolutely nothing wrong with this soap in my opinion.

I loaded very well soaked (2 band badger) brush a bit longer than I would usually, about 45-60 sec and proceeded to face lather, adding a bit of water into the mix twice as I lathered. It produced very nice lather, a bit on the lighter side comparing to other soaps and creams I use, but with OK glide, protection and residual slickness. Aftershave feel is also great for me.
 
Review update: Shave #2.

As I said in my OP, the three-shave review isn’t intended to be 3 shaves in succession, rather it is a review which reports on 3 shaves as I experience the product. The 1st shave and initial impressions are in the OP. The second shave report is in this post and follows on from a week or so of using the product. The 3rd shave review will be posted when I have settled down and feel comfortable that my views on the product are set.

For my next 3-part review, I'll come up with a new title (3- part review?) I am beginning to understand that on B&B, your words will be taken literally if not careful lol!

Firstly,

I forgot to mention in my 1st report that I had e-mailed DR Harris before purchase, requesting info on acquiring soap and scent samples. I didn’t want to pay the premium price for Harris soaps without testing first and there is no local outlet in my area for me to visit. I have as yet to receive a reply from DR Harris which is disappointing.
For the price you are paying, I didn’t expect a poorly packaged product or non-existent customer service

Shave #2

After my 1st report, I read and listened to the comments and replies and decided to investigate a little further to see if my experiences were singular, or common. Was my approach to using this (any?) Soap was wrong. I found the following:

Lather disappearing from the brush is reported here

I load it up for what I think is a long time, and then proceed to face lather. It does okay the first two passes, but the last two are a stretch, and when I squeeze out the brush for the last pass, pass #4 hardly anything comes out

Poor shave performance is reported here

This soap does NOT work with blade buffing for whatever reason. I couldn’t get it to perform blade buffing with my Merkur HD razor. I didn’t have to spend as much time trying to shave all the bits and pieces of stubble left over.

Also, (average) intra-shave slickness is reported here


So, listening to those saying that Harris soaps reward fidelity, I went back to the puck and have stayed with this soap since posting shave #1.

On my second shave, I used my stiffer Body Shop brush and loaded for a full 30 seconds. I didn’t really think that I had under loaded the brush for the 1st shave tbh, but ran with the advice of the forum. This time round, I got a much thicker lather. Too thick tbh. Intra shave slickness fell off a cliff and the shave performance was terrible I was left with rough areas everywhere. There was, however, plenty of lather left in the brush after my 3rd pass.


On my next shaves, I reverted back to my Yaqi and dialled down the loading and upped the hydration. In effect, I treated it like a normal soap (unlike my first few attempts). I was rewarded with an ok shave. Still not top notch on intra shave slickness, still struggling with shave performance, and still finicky on post shave slickness, but not an utterly terrible shave.


I got to thinking what had gone so wrong in the first shave and why I was struggling to find this soap’s lathering sweet spot. As I continued with the shaves, I noted that I was finding it harder to load my brush with soap without it spilling over the bowl. (This is not an issue with my other soaps) and then the penny dropped.

This Soap is a thirsty lather monster.

Seriously, it will just keep taking water and lathering. This, and with me using my Yaqi brush (stupidly good at lathering with its dense and fine fibres) and the fact that my water is so soft the water company can’t measure it (0), I had a eureka moment. This Soap is not going to let you know when it is under or over hydrated and hydration is fundamental to its performance. Too little water, and you lose intra shave slickness and gain over-cushioning. Too much water and you lose the cushioning and the post shave slickness.

The ability of this puck to lather is second to none in my experience. I barely have to touch the puck with the brush for it to start lathering. Once on the face, the Lather will just keep taking water and continue to produce a continuous rich and creamy lather regardless of hydration. It is quite something. However, the shave performance of the lather does not seem to live up to its billing. Too rich, and your blade skips, too lean and you lose slickness. I can’t seem to find the balance. I shouldn’t have to “balance” soaps though. I don’t have this issue with any other. It is frustrating.

I want to post that Post-pass slickness for touch-ups is fantastic with no need for a 4th pass of the brush. Just wet the residuals and away you go. However, I realised that this is only relevant if the lather is rich (and thus not slick enough intra-shave). If you make the lather lean enough to moderate the cushioning for a decent shave, the post shave slickness dies and I find my razor actually galling on the touch ups. (never had that before).


Post shave feel is ok and is again dependent on the richness/leanness of it when you start.


The fragrance is developing. Gone is the ARKO! Nose It first had straight out of the tin. It now has a lemon/citrus note with (creamy?) Tallow overtones. Note great but not bad either. Just strange...
This is a HARD puck. Really hard. It is going to last ages (somebody has reported 450 shaves off one puck!)


So in summary, for me (YMMV obv.)

This is a hard & long lasting puck of soap with a meh fragrance and a meh bowl. Lathering performance is fantastic but shave performance is well below par. Post shave, like intra shave performance is schizophrenic depending on your hydration. It is expensive compared to others (MWF) and DR Harris don’t like to talk to you.

This is one soap which I am actually starting to resent using and it is beginning to spoil my enjoyment of wet shaving so I am going to clean it up and put it away for another day in the long distant future. If and when I do revisit it, I shall update this review (Shave #3).
 
Well once again we see YMMV at play.

Had my second shave with D.R. Harris this morning, and it was even better than already excellent shave #1.
As I lathered and proceeded to shave, there's nothing really "mind blowing" about it. It lathers fine, glides fine, scent is light, but pleasant, plenty of lather for two passes (and more if needed, but in general I stop at 2).

This morning I loaded very well soaked brush for about 45+ seconds, face lathered for about 2-3 minutes and added a bit of water only once. Superb shave, just great - yes I'm really impressed by it's performance, but where this soap really shines for me is post shave feel. I used different aftershaves for these two initial shaves and both times post shave feel for me is incredible.
 
I have worked my way through three cakes(lavender, Arlington, Marlborough) and one stick(sandalwood) of the Harris soaps over the last twelve years. So I have a pretty good handle on their performance.

First, like most here I have to say they are the best of the last. The last of the old high street London brands who have not knackered their soaps completely. I was really blown away by them when I first started using them. Slick lather, decent aftersha e feel, etc. And presentstion is pure class. I went with the mahogany bowls for their beauty. Overall very good soaps but my opinion of them faded as I continued to use them.

The main issue for me was the performance dramaticallly decreased as I got to around 25% of the cake left. This was consistent with each scent. I don't know how to describe it. It was as if some of the stuff that makes it slcik and comforting had been sucked out of it. And the scents tend to fade badly.

Positives. As noted, this is a class product. The box, the bowl, the ribbon oabels, etc. It all gives that old uppercrust, old money feel to it. And performance is very good. I am not damning with faint praise. And the scents, while a bit weak, are spot on old school. No one would ever mistake them for the burnt sugar and shampoo crappy scents you are inundated with at the fragrance boutiques in retsil chains. So would I recommend them? Yes. For the pure, old school British fun of it. And do as others mention, when you use it, do so for a week at a time. It's better that way.
 
The main issue for me was the performance dramaticallly decreased as I got to around 25% of the cake left. This was consistent with each scent. I don't know how to describe it. It was as if some of the stuff that makes it slcik and comforting had been sucked out of it. And the scents tend to fade badly.

This is interesting and very strange observation, and one that's hard to explain.
Could it be that it aged ?

I grated mine into empty tub, hard pressed and it works great. If it's not the age, I'm assuming I wouldn't experience the same thing with performance drop off, that indeed is strange.

PS. had a good laugh at "... burnt sugar and shampoo....." :D :D :D
 
I have worked my way through three cakes(lavender, Arlington, Marlborough) and one stick(sandalwood) of the Harris soaps over the last twelve years. So I have a pretty good handle on their performance.

First, like most here I have to say they are the best of the last. The last of the old high street London brands who have not knackered their soaps completely. I was really blown away by them when I first started using them. Slick lather, decent aftersha e feel, etc. And presentstion is pure class. I went with the mahogany bowls for their beauty. Overall very good soaps but my opinion of them faded as I continued to use them.

The main issue for me was the performance dramaticallly decreased as I got to around 25% of the cake left. This was consistent with each scent. I don't know how to describe it. It was as if some of the stuff that makes it slcik and comforting had been sucked out of it. And the scents tend to fade badly.

Positives. As noted, this is a class product. The box, the bowl, the ribbon oabels, etc. It all gives that old uppercrust, old money feel to it. And performance is very good. I am not damning with faint praise. And the scents, while a bit weak, are spot on old school. No one would ever mistake them for the burnt sugar and shampoo crappy scents you are inundated with at the fragrance boutiques in retsil chains. So would I recommend them? Yes. For the pure, old school British fun of it. And do as others mention, when you use it, do so for a week at a time. It's better that way.


Maybe my puck is upside down? lol.

How can a soap performance be so variable in a puck? Perhaps i have a bad puck? I would email them but they already have me on ignore....
 
Maybe my puck is upside down? lol.

How can a soap performance be so variable in a puck? Perhaps i have a bad puck? I would email them but they already have me on ignore....

Happens all the time, different skin type, different water, brushes, blades, preferences. Plenty soaps and creams out there that many swear by and others find average or below.

Unless you were referring to last 25% from previous comment, that I cannot explain by anything other than manufacturer on purpose mixing it up that way, which is hard to believe. That or the age of the soap.
 
D.R. Harris always performed okay for me, but it's hard to justify the price to me when so many outstanding artisan soaps are available.
 
Happens all the time, different skin type, different water, brushes, blades, preferences. Plenty soaps and creams out there that many swear by and others find average or below.

Unless you were referring to last 25% from previous comment, that I cannot explain by anything other than manufacturer on purpose mixing it up that way, which is hard to believe. That or the age of the soap.

I was referring to the last 25%.
Regarding local factors, i think my water being so soft is causing the soap to lather up too soon (is such a thing possible?)

Why did you grate your puck up?
 
I was referring to the last 25%.
Regarding local factors, i think my water being so soft is causing the soap to lather up too soon (is such a thing possible?)

Why did you grate your puck up?

I only purchased refill (no bowl), because it was on sale.
This soap gets no middle ground reviews, it's "love it or hate it" type of thing, so I was very curious to try it.

Since I like having things nice and organized and old tub I had wasn't exactly perfect fit for it's size, I decided to grate it. I have done that with SV and Haslinger in the past too, it works and looks great, here's photo of recently purchased SV in old Castle Forbes tub.

IMG_20180627_170727.jpg
 
It was weird. All three cakes did this to me. It was not horrid, it just didn't make luxurious lather toward the end. About the last 25, oh heck, lets say the last 20% for argument's sake. Maybe as it aged and dried a bit it caused this. In all cases when I got down to a 1/4 inch ring or so of soap in the bowl(ring because there was a hole in the middle from lathering) I would pop it out and use in thenshower til it was too hard to grasp. But yeah, the last little bit before you would see the bottom of the bowl in the middle from lathering would give less than optimum results.Oddest thing ever. The stick was fine til Icould no longer use it since it was worn too short. Like Imsaid, I may have just lathered it up so hard it kind of scuked the goodness out of the last bit.

As to Harris not answering email, this is par for the course. I love their whole vibe but this dimissive arrogance toward correspondence is ridiculous. When I emailed them it was simple questions about existing products. Nothing exploratory nor askjng of inside information for lack of better descriptor.
 
It was weird. All three cakes did this to me. It was not horrid, it just didn't make luxurious lather toward the end. About the last 25, oh heck, lets say the last 20% for argument's sake. Maybe as it aged and dried a bit it caused this. In all cases when I got down to a 1/4 inch ring or so of soap in the bowl(ring because there was a hole in the middle from lathering) I would pop it out and use in thenshower til it was too hard to grasp. But yeah, the last little bit before you would see the bottom of the bowl in the middle from lathering would give less than optimum results.Oddest thing ever. The stick was fine til Icould no longer use it since it was worn too short. Like Imsaid, I may have just lathered it up so hard it kind of scuked the goodness out of the last bit.

As to Harris not answering email, this is par for the course. I love their whole vibe but this dimissive arrogance toward correspondence is ridiculous. When I emailed them it was simple questions about existing products. Nothing exploratory nor askjng of inside information for lack of better descriptor.

Aging? I have a 40 yr old stick of Yardley black label which is powder dry (they didn't wrap the stick in those days) which lathers just by looking at it and is an absolute joy to shave with!

The lack of customer service from DR Hreally is awful.

Because i have rested this soap for now, and as a control for my results with it for the last week or so, i had a shave with with the cheapest soap i have in my possession: Palmolive.

It lathered up brilliantly, had great shave performance, good slickness and cushion and left my skin fine and dandy.
No faffing.

As it should be.
 
Give it few weeks @Atinofpeas, don't use it at all, and go back to it again at some point. And if it doesn't work out, it doesn't work out, nothing you can do.

It's been over 10 hours since I shaved this morning and I must say, I touched my face one too many times today.
I'm very pleasantly surprised, impressed really, by this soap.
 
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