ATG trial and tribulation

[Chaucer498]

So I have been shaving with my straight razor now for a couple of weeks and I actually feel a lot more comfortable with my straight than I do with a DE razor (still new to DE as well). I have gotten to the point where I can do WTG passes and even XTG on cheeks without any irritation or razor burn, but for the life of m I can't go ATG without getting razor burn and or scraping. I check angles, I use little to no pressure, I even made a super lather tonight for extra glide and I was able to go atg on a small portion of left side of my neck but anywhere else the razor got caught or would skip.

The shave I get is nice and close and visually looks good but I feel like the shave is not complete without having a last ATG pass. What am I doing wrong?

 

[keenedge]

The only thing I can offer is the angle should be very shallow. Perhaps your face just can't take an ATG pass. If you have close, comfortable shaves, what does it matter? How about trying WTG and then ATG, skip the XTG?

 

[Hughies_online]

Some peoples faces can't handle the ATG pass, especially if its done as a last stage (ie after the WTG and XTG passes). Try going ATG after you go WTG and see if that makes a difference. Otherwise, maybe your face can't take it yet. It probably will though in time so don't despair.

 

[cityjim]

I noticed a cream in the OP's arsenal .

I myself have had the best luck with English tripple milled soaps . To name a few good soaps in no order Dr. Williams , Tabac , Mitchell's Wool Fat and in a hybrid soap/cream is the Proraso soap . These 4 give me great comfortable shaves .

Now for directional shaving talk , all I do now is a single pass Against The Grain .

I used to do one WTG pass and get a really DFS , near BBS in areas . It left a little scruff on there so I could shave more frequently . The single WTG was really clean and provided my face with a very presentable appearance .

So I started thinking about it . Why not shoot for a true BBS and see what a single pass ATG does ?? Turns out I get no razor burn and a very comfortable shave . I get zero razor burn and a true BBS shave . Now I see no reason to go WTG or even XTG .

Obviously the more passes like WTG then XTG and maybe ATG , you are removing a lot of skin . Which leads to razor burn .

I must admit you need a SHARP razor for this ATG single pass . All I use is some Arkansas and Spyderco stones . Finally strop before the shave with my Ruprazor Horse Paladin strop . Works for me .......

P.S. , Just noticed the OP is new to straights . Please give your face a few weeks to adjust .

cityjim

 

[Chaucer498]

I can get a DFS with my normal passes, it's true, but I'm used to finishing my shave off with an ATG pass with my M3 and that was using no lubricant. I have been reminded now that I never did do a XTG with my M3. I only ever did a WTG the ATG.

I don't think it's going to make much a difference though because the blade is snagging on the third pass and that's afer the hairs have been brought to close to nothing. I'll be removing my XTG pass for experimentation.

Oh, my sig has to be updated. Last night I actually combined nomad and bigelow for a super thick lather (first time I ever tried that) it was insane. I normally just use my Tabac soap.

I have been thinking of maybe acquiring some pre-shave oil from somewhere but I don't know if it will help.

 

[Chaucer498]

I tried this morning to try the ATG pass since I still had that little stubble and my face had rested but it was a no go. I took a mach3 blade and did an ATG pass with it. It worked fine; however, it does a terrible job I still have places around my neck and face with a faint fine sandpaper feeling.

 

[cityjim]

What shave prep are you doing ? You might try the old tried and true barbers method . I use it every shave . Guys with wirey beards like mine should benefit a lot from it .

1. Wet face with hot water and apply a nice creamy lather .

2. Apply a hot azz semi-damp towel to the entire face . Leave on for 1-3 minutes .

3. Remove towel and splash face with hot water . Then lather like normal . Shave till you are content with the results .


The hot water and lather breaks down the outer hair shaft area . I forgot the actual term for it . Something like cutical or something . This weakens the hairs and allows easier cutting by the edge .

You shouldn't need your M3 at all . Or that might be telling you that your straight razor's edge is not as sharp as it could/should be .

Keep at it and you will get your method down . Once you do , you will notice a straight razor is no harder to shave with than a M3 for example .


good luck buddy
cityjim

 

[mdunn]

also remember that for ATG you want as little an angle as you can, you may be using too much pressure too

 

[Chaucer498]

CityJim- I do actually use that shave prep. I'm on these forums daily for hours at a time. I have pretty much exhausted all the good info I have received. I even went out and purchased some AoS pre-shave oil for extra glide and still no luck.

I think you hit the nail right on the head though. My SR isn't sharp enough to cut ATG. I do have a wirey beard and I have tried softening the hairs with every possible technique suggested to me with no difference in the ATG pass. With closer inspectiong I actually saw the blade snagging on the hairs instead of cutting them like it's supposed to.

I guess the SR is sharp enough for WTG but not for ATG.

I'm in contact with Leighton who offered to hone my blade for me.

Mdunn- Yup, that was suggested to me as well and even with the spine of the blade on my skin the blade snags on hairs.

I think my problem is a dulled blade that's not shave ready. I will work on getting that sharpened up to snuff so that I can rule that out as a problem if my issue persist.

As a sidenote, I purchased a Thiers-Issard razor this weekend from AoS store in a local mall. Now these razors are supposedly shave ready from the manufacture but we know they aren't and need to be honed before use. Well, my AoS razor shaved better than my "hone" Dovo. I could almost get an ATG pass in with my AoS razor.

 

[mdunn]

As a sidenote, I purchased a Thiers-Issard razor this weekend from AoS store in a local mall. Now these razors are supposedly shave ready from the manufacture but we know they aren't and need to be honed before use. Well, my AoS razor shaved better than my "hone" Dovo. I could almost get an ATG pass in with my AoS razor.

Yikes! That razor was getting dull.

Try stropping the bejesus out of it, like 200 laps, it might be a little more comfortable then.

 

[Chaucer498]

I have had this issue since the day I pulled the blade out of the box.

After a couple of shaves I did try stropping it and there was no improvement in performance. I then stropped it on the pasted side and then back on the leather and still it was no better than the first day I received it. I would say it's got about the same sharpness as the day I pulled it out of the box.

Can I shave with it? Yes.

Can I get the shave I "want" out of it? No.

Hopefully this changes soon.

 

[cityjim]

Good news for you Chaucer498 . Sounds like you have a solid plan .

As you are seeing there are levels of sharpness on a blade . Yes it might cut hairs but how cleanly does it do it ? You will notice a sharp blade when you get one . It will require much less effort and pressure to clean the face .

Depending on the length of the hairs , I get a heavy drag also . Usually in the neck area . That is from trying to cut too many hairs with a tough as nails beard . I position the blade so as not to remove as much hair at once . If you wait a day or two between shaves you might notice the drag will go away .

If you want to try some pre shave oil just slap some extra virgin olive oil on . Wet your hands with hot water then dab a little on your fingertips . Massage into the face . Then shave as usual . I used to use EVOO but found out through trials that the better soaps work best on my face anyway .

Your beard might need a different routine . Your water type , humidity level , lather building technique and so on are just some variables to a good shave . Seems like a lot of guys will have something unique to them that works out . Good luck buddy .


cityjim

 

[Chaucer498]

Cityjim- thanks for you suggestions and time as well as everyone elses. They have helped me to work this whole thing out one step at a time. I happened to use my DE razor last night since I was in a bit of a hurry and my ATG passes glided so smoothly. I got a really close shave with only a few small areas that need touching up but I just didn't have the time. It helped to reconfirm how dull my SR are because they don't even come close the sharpness of the Derby blade I was using.

Time will surely tell and I feel better now that I am getting to the root of the problem.

Thanks again.

 

[NavyShave]

Hello. I used to have a similar issue with ATG passes. I realized that while trying to keep the pressure on my face light, I was gripping the blade very lightly. This allowed the blade to skip over the ATG hair and nick my skin or cause a pulling sensation.
With a firm, positive grip on the razor, I am now able to shave my face however I please with no issues. Also, it seems the more I stretch the skin, the smoother the feel of the razor is to my face. Hope all that helps!

 

[leighton]

Hello. I used to have a similar issue with ATG passes. I realized that while trying to keep the pressure on my face light, I was gripping the blade very lightly. This allowed the blade to skip over the ATG hair and nick my skin or cause a pulling sensation.
With a firm, positive grip on the razor, I am now able to shave my face however I please with no issues. Also, it seems the more I stretch the skin, the smoother the feel of the razor is to my face. Hope all that helps!

That is some good insight!

 

[NavyShave]

Thanks!

 

[Fnord5]

Cityjim- thanks for you suggestions and time as well as everyone elses. They have helped me to work this whole thing out one step at a time. I happened to use my DE razor last night since I was in a bit of a hurry and my ATG passes glided so smoothly. I got a really close shave with only a few small areas that need touching up but I just didn't have the time. It helped to reconfirm how dull my SR are because they don't even come close the sharpness of the Derby blade I was using.

Time will surely tell and I feel better now that I am getting to the root of the problem.

Thanks again.

Where are you located? There are a lot of guys here that offer cheap, or even free honing. I could take a look at the Dovo and/or the Thiers, and hone that puppy up nice and sharp for you, free of charge.(You pay shipping to me, I'll get it on the way back)
If you are interested, shoot me a PM, and I'll let you know where to ship it.