ATG straight razor technique in tight areas - axial rolling

[MurderousCrow]

Hi,

Wanted to share a technique I've found with my Feather AC SS and straight razors, and was wondering if others use a similar method.

Background: many newbies to straight shaving like me can struggle in areas where the angle of the skin changes acutely - lips, chins etc. I head shave and do the edges of my beard to keep it neat. For a while there I had trouble with tricky areas such as around the ears and the lower throat. I couldn't find any way to flatten my ears enough to allow the optimal low shave angle with the straight, considering I wanted to go ATG.

Previously I was trying all kinds of contortions, but I got bored of the nicks and irritation. I prize BBS shaves, so lateral thinking was required... I experimented with a different technique, and found it very successful. In fact so successful that I've been using it routinely for weeks now and pretty much forgot I was doing it. I 'remembered' I was doing last night as I've also recently started using this technique on my throat to do the beard edges, and have seen a big improvement in the lining up as a result as well as comfort.

With minimal pressure and careful positioning I place the blade almost perpendicular to the skin at the base of the area I want to shave ATG. Then, keeping the razor absolutely still, just gently rolling it axially up into the grain keeping the blade lightly in contact with the skin. With the axis fixed the blade naturally makes a pass as its angle changes and flattens more against the skin.

It works with the scales fully extended or at right angles. A few strokes like this can get the area BBS, and it has put paid to nicks, stray hairs and razor rash.

ETA: I've used this with the Feather AC SS and a 7/8 straight.

Does anyone else do this?

Luke

 

[steveclarkus]

If I’m getting what you are describing, it sounds like the way I shave my upper lip a technique called “coup de maitre”. For trimming around your beard, have you tried a 4/8 or 3/8 blade? They are sometimes advertised as “sculpting” razors although the 4/8 is my favorite razor size of all. Search YouTube for “coup de maitre” to see the video and let me know if this motion is what you are describing.

Steve

 

[MurderousCrow]

If I’m getting what you are describing, it sounds like the way I shave my upper lip a technique called “coup de maitre”. For trimming around your beard, have you tried a 4/8 or 3/8 blade? They are sometimes advertised as “sculpting” razors although the 4/8 is my favorite razor size of all. Search YouTube for “coup de maitre” to see the video and let me know if this motion is what you are describing.

Steve

Hi Steve,

I'm not able to view videos for the next few days (stuck at work with a very slow connection to the outside world) but I found a site - nassrasur - with diagrams describing the coup de maitre. Thank you - this looks like the one! I thought this technique would be found somewhere, but couldn't find it with the search terms I was using. Who knew to use a french term meaning 'master stroke'? It's a great technique, and has definitely changed how I shave, and how satisfied I am with my results. In addition to fixing the ear area, it's working great on the throat, allowing a very neat line-up on my beard.

Luke

 

[MurderousCrow]

I have never tried a small razor, although I was intrigued by the recent Feather Plier discussion - that would appear significantly thinner than the AC SS I use regularly. I may give one a go; I like using a wide (ish) blade but appreciate it's good to try different things.

It's going to have to wait though - just treated myself to a new 7/8 GD 96 with french point, to develop my honing skills on... As well as new Shapton 5k and 8k stones

 

[Twelvefret]

I think you are describing what I do by rolling the razor with my fingers around my chin and other curved facial parts.

 

[MurderousCrow]

I think you are describing what I do by rolling the razor with my fingers around my chin and other curved facial parts.

I'm not sure what you mean, but maybe I haven't described it well. It's not the action of keeping a constant angle when shaving a convex surface. Rather it's shaving into and out of an acutely concave surface like the skin between the scalp and the upper part of the ear. Or the upper lip. This link seems to show the technique almost exactly how I do it, from what I can tell:

step 4

 

[RumpleBearskin]

Exactly how I do under my nose (WTG). I use the same technique at the start of my ear-to-nose XTG stroke, and the angle change between lower lip and chin, but don't have to start at quite as steep of an angle.

But my observation is that that steep of an angle is more scraping than cutting and I have to watch the pressure to avoid irritation. None the less, it's the best way for me to get those concave areas.

 

[MurderousCrow]

Exactly how I do under my nose (WTG). I use the same technique at the start of my ear-to-nose XTG stroke, and the angle change between lower lip and chin, but don't have to start at quite as steep of an angle.

But my observation is that that steep of an angle is more scraping than cutting and I have to watch the pressure to avoid irritation. None the less, it's the best way for me to get those concave areas.

Yes. I use very light pressure, particularly at the start of the stroke.