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Ascending The Steep Learning Curve To A Great Straight Shave

Hurray! Thanks largely to this forum I just had my first great straight shave, but it's been a long journey.

First I got a Rolls Razor from a boot fair for £2.00. I enjoyed shaving with it but it just wasn't sharp enough, howevr much I honed and stropped it using its own case mechanism
Then I got a shavette to add a bit of variety to my OC DEs.
I liked the vicious and unforgiving Pakistani Maqsood shavette so much that I got a Coolcut 4 and temjeito very generously PIF'd me a Parker SR1 (thanks!).
Then I picked up a vintage Suprema straight in good condition at a flea market for £8.00 but, of course, it wasn't shave ready.

I'd read that the Rolls would shine if it was honed outside the box, so I thought I'd give it a go in a cheapo way, so I ordered some 3M polishing papers off eBay for £3.20.
Meanwhile, those shavettes were kicking my technique and confidence far up the learning curve with every shave, and when I returned to DE shaving it was at a new level.

The polishing papers arrived and I honed the Rolls blade with them in a haphazard kind of way and then stropped it like a lunatic, and it produced a fantastic result. The Rolls blade was now extremely smooth and very sharp.
This inspired me to try the same routine with the Suprema but I made a lot of mistakes and ended up with a rough dull blade (doh!)
The first big mistake I made was putting the paper on ceramic tiles which weren't completely flat (doh!).
The second, and thoroughly shameful, mistake was that I didn't examine the 1u paper closely enough to see that it's backing and abrasive side were the same colour and i accidentally mounted it on the tile upside down (doh!) then wondered why the Suprema blade felt like a can lid.

But then I posted about this in the Rolls thread and got some really good advice from Slash McCoy which worked brilliantly!
This time I worked through all 6 polishing papers from the coarsest to the finest, mounting them on a smaller mirror tile and lapping with each paper much more than seemed sensible until the blade was undercutting the water and felt like it was sticking to the paper.
I mounted the 1u paper the right way up (!) and finished up with it over wet paper, then stropped like crazy on newspaper.
The result was excellent :thumbup:

$IMG01254-20130816-2303.jpg

The fierce technique training from the shavettes and the great honing advice from Slash McCoy converged with my low-end all-paper sharpening solution, and tonight I had a great shave with the 1932 Suprema No.42 3/8 straight.
Thanks guys!
 
Actually, using a straight has a fairly shallow learning curve. An electric razor has an extremely steep one.

http://discuss.fogcreek.com/joelonsoftware/default.asp?cmd=show&ixPost=39708
How interesting- as a sometime proofreader and editor, I respect your erudition.
So this thread might be more correctly titled "navigating the shallow learning curve to a great straight shave", although my meaning was conveyed effectively to most people who would have read the title by my idiomatic (though analogically incorrect) use of the common phrase "steep learning curve".

And I'm amazed at how much there is to this...we're in the middle of a stressfull move and honing that blade on the papers was very relaxing.
Just to shake things up a bit I also got a slate hone at aboot fair today for 50p!
 
Thanks Henry, I have been guilty of that, as well as the word peruse.

How interesting- as a sometime proofreader and editor, I respect your erudition.
So this thread might be more correctly titled "navigating the shallow learning curve to a great straight shave", although my meaning was conveyed effectively to most people who would have read the title by my idiomatic (though analogically incorrect) use of the common phrase "steep learning curve".

And I'm amazed at how much there is to this...we're in the middle of a stressfull move and honing that blade on the papers was very relaxing.
Just to shake things up a bit I also got a slate hone at aboot fair today for 50p!

Nothing to respect. I was once corrected when referring to golf's steep learning curve. The correction stuck with me - a steep learning curve actually makes sense.

Yes, there is a lot to this straight razor shaving. But it is all fun. The first year is discovery after discovery. I kind of miss it.
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
MJ, you don't want polishing paper. You want lapping film. They are not the same. Unless one or the other is mis-named.
 
If you are using an actual really for real straight razor and doing your own honing, you might do well to note that the first stop along the old learning curve needs to be the 1000 grit stone. Stop there and stay there until you are positive you have a correctly set bevel. Going forward without having set the bevel correctly will force you to crash somewhere along the rest of your learning curve.
 
Ok- here's what happened next...
...also I need to point out that I'm not being flippant here or disregarding advice- I completely accept that to get a proper shave ready edge that razor should be sent to a honemeister or I should take very small steps using the excellent advice that I've been receiving here.
I really appreciate that B&B has people who properly know what they're talking about when it comes to honing and are willing to share their time and experience in a supportive way.

But I went ahead working with what I've got to see what would happen, so I hope nobody thinks I'm being flippant or disrespectful.

I started again- lots of laps (200+!) on a small fine Norton India stone (about 840k?), then on to a vintage red carborundum stone (2k?- not pictured), then on to a big slate hone (6k) then finishing again on the light green paper (8k).
Finally lots of stropping on a horsehide strop that came with the Durham Duplex kit I received this morning:

$IMG01277-20130820-2217.jpg

I was very surprised at the result cos it was so good :confused1
I've no experience of a proper shave ready straight and am only really familiar with DEs, but the sharpness of the blade felt about the same as the carbon steel NOS Gillette Blue DE blades that I've used and it was a pleasure to shave with!
 

Slash McCoy

I freehand dog rockets
Nice going, MJ. I never believed it was impossible... just not the best way to get started. You have done well. And it will get better and easier.
 
A steep learning curve can also represent an activity that requires a large amount of proficiency/skill/knowledge be learned almost immediately just to be able to perform the task. I guess the expression in its common usage includes a certain magnitude of skill (the y axis) that is not present in the flat learning curve of a task that is easy to learn. I think straight shaving does have a steep learning curve--you have to figure out how to hold the razor, the angle, the pressure (against the face and in the cutting direction), the direction of the strokes, awareness of the entire length of the blade,stropping, cleaning and drying, skin stretching etc. just to finish a shave. In contrast an electric has a flat learning curve--very little skill to learn:turn it on, rub against the hair growth, and really very little to learn after that. After the steep part of the curve there is a long gradual upslope with straight shaving, I agree, but the common use is correct in reference to an activity where a high degree of skill must be learned in the first few attempts.
 
Nice going, MJ. I never believed it was impossible... just not the best way to get started. You have done well. And it will get better and easier.
Thanks! I'm excited and encouraged that this is working so well :thumbup1:

When I started, getting that razor to a shaveable state with no experience and a low budget seemed like a daunting and unlikely task.
But your words have inspired me and given me some confidence, so thank you again.

Although I see that I have as yet barely scraped the surface of what honing is all about, getting a good shave from an 80 year old razor that came from a flea market and that I sharpened myself is a magical feeling!

I'm just beginning to understand the appeal of straight razor maintenance- I would never have guessed that it would be a meditation as well as an achievement :001_smile
 
Nest stop I got an 8k Perforated Hone from an antiques shop in Ashburton:

View attachment 368666

I went from the 6k slate to this 8k hone, then plenty of stropping on the Durham Duplex horse hide strop and got a nice smooth shave from the Suprema 3/8, but it could really have done with being a bit sharper.
So I was still looking for a finishing solution.
Then in this thread:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showth...forated-Razor-Hone-quot?p=5453161#post5453161

Gamma suggested that to get a finishing stone, I refinish the 8k hone with w/d paper.
So I refinished the flat side of the perforated hone, firstly with wet 0.6k polishing paper then wet 1.2k paper, then dry.

I honed the Suprema 3/8 and a Langley 6/8 30 laps on the 8k perforated side, then finished with 20 laps on the refinished flat side and the result was excellent.
After plenty of stropping, those razors were the sharpest they've ever been and I got a DFS with the Langley tonight.

I've got some n00b questions:
1) What kind of increase in grit will I be getting by refinishing with the 1.2k paper?
2) How does this even work- why does refinishing an 8k hone with 1.2k paper make the hone finer?
Surely it should make it coarser.
3) After refinishing, the flat side felt rougher to the touch than the unfinished side- is this some kind of tactile illusion?

In any case, it has worked brilliantly and given a great finishing solution so that these razors now have a very sharp edge for a very nice shave,

And ironically, the sharper and smoother these razors get the more i see the need for improvement in my technique
:lol:
 
Thanks for the write up, I have had stunning (for my standards) success with lapping film on regular straights. Perhaps I should give it a shot on my rolls razor which I have not managed to hone successfully up until now.
 
If you are using an actual really for real straight razor and doing your own honing, you might do well to note that the first stop along the old learning curve needs to be the 1000 grit stone. Stop there and stay there until you are positive you have a correctly set bevel. Going forward without having set the bevel correctly will force you to crash somewhere along the rest of your learning curve.
Ah ha! Thanks for this bit of advice, which I've now come back to after getting a reasonable shaving edge on the Suprema and a good shaving edge on the Langley but wanting better.
Although I'm sure it would be laughably obvious to many with more experience, I was confused as to why the Suprema still wasn't shaving as well as the Langley, and just put it down to poor technique with the smaller razor.
Then I remembered the above post and started again on a coarse whetstone to set a proper bevel.
Then the slate, then the perforated hone, then the lapped side of the hone, then stropping on leather.

The result is that the Suprema now shaves as sharp and smooth as any of my DEs, and the Langley is off the chain!
I'm really​ getting hooked on this now...
 
Well...after finally achieving that very good result by finishing on a barber hone that had been lapped with 1.2k polishing paper, I thought I'd try this newspaper stropping.
I used a large photo with lots of green ink, wrapped it round a plank and gave the edge 400 laps then stropped on leather.
The result was that the edge was transformed and taken to the next level, like moving from an Israeli Personna to a Polsilver SI (if you'll pardon the DE analogy)- sharper and crisper but also somehow it felt more brittle.

Next stop, an artist I work for gave me some Chromium oxide acrylic which I've painted onto a board, so we'll see how that does next...

$IMG01450-20130925-2253.jpg
 
Chromium oxide acrylic

Acrylic paint sets hard, so I don't think that's what you want - you'd be honing against the acrylic base rather than the oxide particles. What you need is chromium oxide powder that you can mix in a non-setting base - usually an oil of some sort, or already mixed in oil to make a paste.
 
Acrylic paint sets hard, so I don't think that's what you want - you'd be honing against the acrylic base rather than the oxide particles. What you need is chromium oxide powder that you can mix in a non-setting base - usually an oil of some sort, or already mixed in oil to make a paste.
Hmmm...I got the idea of using acrylic from this post:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/24153-Chromium-Oxide-Sources?p=297290#post297290

There it is explicitly stated that Chromium Oxide Green Acrylic can be used and will give a better result than normal paste.
I guess the real test will be to see if it actually works or not...
 
Hmmm...I got the idea of using acrylic from this post:
http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php/24153-Chromium-Oxide-Sources?p=297290#post297290

There it is explicitly stated that Chromium Oxide Green Acrylic can be used and will give a better result than normal paste.
I guess the real test will be to see if it actually works or not...

Well, I've heard a lot of people talking about chromium oxide, but I've never heard anyone recommend acrylic paint before. But there's no harm in giving it ago, I guess.
 
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