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Aroma chemicals in shaving products, scent profiles and allergies

I've compiled a list of some of the common aroma chemicals used for creating fragrances in soaps, creams, balms and aftershaves. If you have known allergies/reactions from any of these, you can look at scent profiles before doing blind buys and have an educated guess if the product will contain an irritant for your skin.

Benzaldehyde - Sweet cherry, almond, marzipan.

Sylvamber - Woody, Floral, Ambergris. Smooth, woody, amber with unique aspects giving a ''velvet'' like sensation. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances. Superb floralizer found in the majority of newer fine fragrances and also useful in soaps. Richer in the desirable gamma isomer than isocyclemone.

Ethyl Maltol - Sweet sugary, caramelised, jammy, strawberry-like odour reminiscent of candyfloss.

Ethyl Vanillin - Sweet, creamy, vanilla, with a root berry salicylate-like nuance.

Cashmeran - Musk-like, spicy, floral, fruity, rich, musty Solvent. Diffusive, spicy, musk-like odor with strong floral reinforcement. Powdery, velvet nuance. Long lasting. Aromatic, apple, earthy, woody, red fruit, pine.

Calone - Marine moss ozone floral heliotrope melon green fresh. This unusual odorant has intense ozone and marine notes with floral overtones. The ingredient is very trendy and has been widely used since the 1990’s. The ingredient is the basis of several perfumes.

Hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate) - Sweet, fruity, floral, citrus lemon and grapefruit-like with woody jasmine and green nuances. Diffusive, powerful, floral, jasmine. Used primarily in jasmine fragrances.

Dihydromyrcenol - Fresh citrus floral bergamot lime. Powerful fresh Lime-like overall citrusyfloral and sweet. Blends with citrus-notes. Green Irish Tweed, Aspen, Drakkar Noir and Cool Water are based on this.

ISO E Super - Woody dry ambergris cedar old wood ketonic phenolic. Woody, Floral, Ambergris. Smooth, woody, amber with unique aspects giving a ''velvet'' like sensation. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances. Superb floralizer found in the majority of newer fine fragrances and also useful in soaps.

Ambroxan - Ambergris old paper sweet labdanum dry. Ambery, Woody, Tobacco, Dry Ambrofix is a highly powerful,highly substantive and highly stable ambery note for use in all applications. Ambrofix is the most suitable material for obtaining an authentic ambergris note.

Ambrocenide - Woody amber agarwood. Extremely powerful woody-ambery note.

Coumarin - Sweet, stinging, coconut note. Sweet, hay, tonka, new-mown-hay. Arctander describes it as “Sweet, herbaceous-warm, somewhat spicy odor, in extreme dilution more haylike, nut- Iike, tobacco-like… Extensively used in perfumery to support herbaccous odors, Lavender, Lavandin, Rosemary, Citrus oils, Oakmoss, etc., and as a fixative in numerous types of fragrances; Almost a standard ingredient in Fougère types with Amylsalicylate and Lavender-notes, with or without Oakmoss.”

Linalool - Citrus, orange, floral, terpy, waxy and rose. Fresh, floral-woody, sweet, citrus. Arctander writes extensively about linalool: “Linalool is used very extensively in perfume compositions of almost all types and price levels. Basically a floral material, and originally a Lily-of-the V alley (Muguet) ingredient, it is now used in countless floral types, and in Oriental, Ambre, aldehydic, herbaceous and many other fragrance types. It may even form part of a Citrus fragrance or a woody complex, a Lily, Muguet, Honeysuckle, Lilac, Sweet Pea, NeroIi, Appleblossom, Frangipanni, Freesia, Peony, etc. etc. … Linalool should be the ingredient that gives the lift in an overall heavier composition.

Citronellol (dihydrogeraniol) - Floral, rosy, sweet, citrus with green fatty terpene nuances. A fresh, clean, floral (rose). Widely used as a clean, rose note in fine fragrances.

Cinnamal (cinnamaldehyde) - Cassia, cinnamon, cinnamon bark and red hots. Spicy sweet aromatic aldehydic honey cinnamyl resinous.

Geraniol - Very high quality rose/lemon. A widely used rose and geranium note. Floral, sweet, rosey, fruity and citronella-like with a citrus nuance.

Ethyl Fenchol - Earthy ground rooty damp musty camphor. A powerful earthy, ambergris odor with a patchouli topnote. Powerful and diffusive ambery earthy odor with undertones of patchouli and oakmoss. Blends extremely well with oriental compositions.

Oud Synth - Oud, woody vetiver sweet balsamic animal earthy amber smoky. Tenacious. Fixative. Odor: Woody, Balsamic Use: A reconstitution of agarwood oil. Intensely woody, reminiscent of vetyver, with sweet balsamic undertones.
 

Raven Koenes

My precious!
Benzaldehyde - Sweet cherry, almond, marzipan is the one that gives me a reaction. I so wanted to buy a kilo block of Cella. I'm glad I started out with a tub. I really liked the scent, but it set my face on fire. Luckily I can slather all the other chemicals. I love chemicals.
 
Cinnamal (cinnamaldehyde) is what I am allergic to - this rules out Arko, MWF and most Haslinger soaps...
My heart was weary tossing out all of this stuff.

I'm really annoyed so many webshops do not list ingredients and brick&mortar shops placing sales stickers over the ingredients list :=|
 
I've compiled a list of some of the common aroma chemicals used for creating fragrances in soaps, creams, balms and aftershaves. If you have known allergies/reactions from any of these, you can look at scent profiles before doing blind buys and have an educated guess if the product will contain an irritant for your skin.
....

great list!

question, do any essential oils also produce allergic reactions??
 
Part 2

Tabanon
- Warm-tobacco, sweet, fruity-plum, acorn, dry. Very powerful. Arcadi Boix Camps, writes in 1985 about this material with great enthusiasm describing it as “a product of supreme importance both in the perfumery of the future and the chemical composition of todays tobacco. It has indescribable tobacco scents, is fruity, radiant, powerful and brilliant. Its use may lead us to a new era in perfumery. I have no hesitation in placing this aromaic chemical among the elite of the chemical products that include Hedione, the irones, the Damascones, and theaspirane“

Ethyl Hexanoate - Strong, sweet-ethereal like pineapple, with nuances of banana and strawberry.

Cis-3 Hexenol - Fresh, Green Grassy, Herbaceous.

Methyl Benzoate - Strong phenolic, similar to cresol/wintergreen oil, sweet-floral like ylang ylang, tuberose. Blends-well-with - +Oakmoss +Sandalwood +Musks +para-Tolyl Methyl Ether +Vetiver Cinnamic Alcohol.

Isoamyl Salicylate - Floral, herbal, woody, orchid, metallic.

Vertenex (PT Butyl Cyclohexyl Acetate) - Sweet, rich and woody. This material blends well with ionones and enriches the odor quality of fragrances for functional products. A sophisticated and complex odor with a floral, woody-orris character.

Timbersilk - Smooth, warm, woody, amber note. Powerful yet silky soft. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances.

Iralia (Methyl Ionone) - The most floral and rich of all qualities of methylionones with a strong orris, violet character and a slight fruity note. An indispensable element in all high quality perfumes whatever their tonality: flowery, woody, chypre, oriental, etc. It gives them radiance and great elegance.

Heliotropin (99% as Piperonal) - Cherry-like. Widely used in perfumery. Used in powdery accords, but also in florals, like muguet, carnation, and lilac. Give softness and creaminess. Almond; anise; balsam; berry; cherry; creamy; floral; raspberry; sweet; vanilla; violet; woody; wine-like; herbaceous.

Exaltolide (Omega-Pentadecalactone) - Musk animal powdery natural fruity. This is an extremely fine and elegant musk but more cost effective. One of the finest synthetic musk notes that possesses a very natural.

Muscone - A very soft, sweet, musky odor with a warm animal tonality, reminiscent of the natural Tonkin musk. It can be used to give elegant and warm animal notes and adds lift and diffusion to any perfume. Important for the reconstitution of natural musk.

Galaxolide - A clean, powerful and versatile iso-chroman musk having exceptional persistence and a superb fragrance quality approaching the tone of macrocyclic musks.

Ambrox / Cetalox - An elegant amber note with a rich woody character. This ingredient provides warmth, richness and elegance to all areas of perfumery from sheer florals to modern orientals.

Cedramber (Cedrol Methyl Ether) - A dry, very diffusive, true ambergris note that also has rich woody cedarwood, dry aspects.

Vertofix (Methyl Cedryl Ketone) - A warm precious wood aroma with musky undertones. Long lasting and diffusive. Woody, Cedar, Leather, Dry.
 
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great list!

question, do any essential oils also produce allergic reactions??

Essential oils definitely cause allergic reaction and irritation. For example vetiver. The natural oil is cheaper to make than a synthetic analog and perfumers use the essential oil. If you have issues with vetiver scented stuff, it's almost certainly a reaction from the natural oil.

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Essential oils definitely cause allergic reaction and irritation. For example vetiver. The natural oil is cheaper to make than a synthetic analog and perfumers use the essential oil. If you have issues with vetiver scented stuff, it's almost certainly a reaction from the natural oil.

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Thanks, interesting info!!

So, if essential oils also can be allegens, why would they be excluded from a comprehensive survey??
 
Thanks, interesting info!!

So, if essential oils also can be allegens, why would they be excluded from a comprehensive survey??

They are straight forward to figure out. Vetiver smells like vetiver, neroli like neroli, rose like rose. Aroma chemicals are more complex and function as fragrance 'accords' (group of notes, like in music). For example, Terre d'Hermes is 30% just one aroma chemical - ISO E Super, which gives its main earthy character, but it smells complex. If you go on Fragrantica.com you'll see people voting which notes they are smelling and there'll be 15+. But the notes are usually parts of accords from few select aroma chemicals.

When artisans copy popular colognes like Creed Green Irish Tweed they will use Dihydromyrcenol because that's the main accord in it, that's what Creed uses. For Dior dupes they'll use Hedione, for aquatics like Acqua di Gio they'll use Calone. They can't substitute it with natural oils. People want stronger scents with longer shelf life, which is not always achievable or feasible with natural oils.

If you go on thegoodscentscompany.com, both synthetics and naturals are well indicated at what safe dosage should be used, which are more known allergy risks etc.
 
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Thanks, interesting info!!

So, if essential oils also can be allegens, why would they be excluded from a comprehensive survey??

I do not think the intent was to produce a comprehensive survey, only to list many of the commonly use ingredients listed, or used but not listed, in shaving products. If all possible allergens and sensitivity agents were listed, the list would be so long that no one would read it.

Also, many products just list "fragrance" and you have no idea whether the scent is from essential oils or fragrance oils a combination of both.
 
Good resource, @naughtilus, thanks for putting it together. As I'm definitely sensitive to fragrances, I certainly appreciate having the information available. It may save me from a migraine or two.
 
Part 2

Tabanon
- Warm-tobacco, sweet, fruity-plum, acorn, dry. Very powerful. Arcadi Boix Camps, writes in 1985 about this material with great enthusiasm describing it as “a product of supreme importance both in the perfumery of the future and the chemical composition of todays tobacco. It has indescribable tobacco scents, is fruity, radiant, powerful and brilliant. Its use may lead us to a new era in perfumery. I have no hesitation in placing this aromaic chemical among the elite of the chemical products that include Hedione, the irones, the Damascones, and theaspirane“

Ethyl Hexanoate - Strong, sweet-ethereal like pineapple, with nuances of banana and strawberry.

Cis-3 Hexenol - Fresh, Green Grassy, Herbaceous.

Methyl Benzoate - Strong phenolic, similar to cresol/wintergreen oil, sweet-floral like ylang ylang, tuberose. Blends-well-with - +Oakmoss +Sandalwood +Musks +para-Tolyl Methyl Ether +Vetiver Cinnamic Alcohol.

Isoamyl Salicylate - Floral, herbal, woody, orchid, metallic.

Vertenex (PT Butyl Cyclohexyl Acetate) - Sweet, rich and woody. This material blends well with ionones and enriches the odor quality of fragrances for functional products. A sophisticated and complex odor with a floral, woody-orris character.

Timbersilk - Smooth, warm, woody, amber note. Powerful yet silky soft. Used to impart fullness and subtle strength to fragrances.

Iralia (Methyl Ionone) - The most floral and rich of all qualities of methylionones with a strong orris, violet character and a slight fruity note. An indispensable element in all high quality perfumes whatever their tonality: flowery, woody, chypre, oriental, etc. It gives them radiance and great elegance.

Heliotropin (99% as Piperonal) - Cherry-like. Widely used in perfumery. Used in powdery accords, but also in florals, like muguet, carnation, and lilac. Give softness and creaminess. Almond; anise; balsam; berry; cherry; creamy; floral; raspberry; sweet; vanilla; violet; woody; wine-like; herbaceous.

Exaltolide (Omega-Pentadecalactone) - Musk animal powdery natural fruity. This is an extremely fine and elegant musk but more cost effective. One of the finest synthetic musk notes that possesses a very natural.

Muscone - A very soft, sweet, musky odor with a warm animal tonality, reminiscent of the natural Tonkin musk. It can be used to give elegant and warm animal notes and adds lift and diffusion to any perfume. Important for the reconstitution of natural musk.

Galaxolide - A clean, powerful and versatile iso-chroman musk having exceptional persistence and a superb fragrance quality approaching the tone of macrocyclic musks.

Ambrox / Cetalox - An elegant amber note with a rich woody character. This ingredient provides warmth, richness and elegance to all areas of perfumery from sheer florals to modern orientals.

Cedramber (Cedrol Methyl Ether) - A dry, very diffusive, true ambergris note that also has rich woody cedarwood, dry aspects.

Vertofix (Methyl Cedryl Ketone) - A warm precious wood aroma with musky undertones. Long lasting and diffusive. Woody, Cedar, Leather, Dry.

Great list!! Thanks for compiling!! :a14::a14:

This would be a great addition to the WiKi IMO!
 
Essential oils can actually be more hazardous, generally speaking, and must be used with caution. Cinnamon and similar spicy essential oils are quite likely to cause reactions. Lime and other citrus oils when exposed to ultraviolet radiation can produce horrendous rashes in some people. Other essential oils are actually toxins (wintergreen is a classic example).

When essential oils are used topically, they have to be diluted in carrier oils and at certain concentrations to avoid over-reactivity. They are generally safe and well tolerated in shaving soaps, etc., because the people making the soaps monitor percentages, keeping them in the range that is least likely to cause problems. But some people are sensitive even to small amounts of some essential oils.
 
Essential oils can actually be more hazardous, generally speaking, and must be used with caution. Cinnamon and similar spicy essential oils are quite likely to cause reactions. Lime and other citrus oils when exposed to ultraviolet radiation can produce horrendous rashes in some people. Other essential oils are actually toxins (wintergreen is a classic example).

When essential oils are used topically, they have to be diluted in carrier oils and at certain concentrations to avoid over-reactivity. They are generally safe and well tolerated in shaving soaps, etc., because the people making the soaps monitor percentages, keeping them in the range that is least likely to cause problems. But some people are sensitive even to small amounts of some essential oils.

Although I cannot call them allergic reactions, I do have burning sensations from a number of essential oils: lime, lemon, grapefruit, clove, cinnamon, menthol, and perhaps others. I have had to dispose of some products based on these scent notes. I can tolerate products containing these oils as long as the concentration is not too high. Thus, I avoid simple fragrances containing these scents and look for complex fragrances based on multiple scent notes. So far I have not had issues with most "cologne" type scents.

I have had issues with Ogalala Bay Rum due to the high clove content.

I have also had issues with The Sudsy Soapery scents containing lime, lemon, grapefruit, menthol, etc. That is unfortunate as I like the performance of their soaps.

I suspect I might have issues with some other artisans as well, but I no longer purchase soaps that have high concentrations of the scents to which I am sensitive.
 
Couple years ago I made pre/post shave oil with herbs from the garden - rosemary, sage, basil, st. john's wort. Even though I'm not allergic to any of these, I'd get skin irritation from it (tingling, redness, bumps). The infused oil concentration was too high.
 
Coumarin - Almost a standard ingredient in Fougère types with Amylsalicylate and Lavender-notes, with or without Oakmoss.”

Not sure where you are copy pasting from but this part anyway is wrong - if it doesn't contain coumarin, lavender and oakmoss it's simply not a fougere. There's no "almost" involved.
 
The cosmetic and soap industry is awash with dangerous and harmful chemicals.

I transitioned away from using the stuff as much as i could many months ago and have only benefited from it.
 
Couple years ago I made pre/post shave oil with herbs from the garden - rosemary, sage, basil, st. john's wort. Even though I'm not allergic to any of these, I'd get skin irritation from it (tingling, redness, bumps). The infused oil concentration was too high.

St Johns wort is banned for use in some countries iianm
 
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