Anyone use a drill press for brush restores?

[pdmcadams]

So, I want to restore some brushes and have been reading the "how-to" threads and following the various brush restores that are regularly posted. It seems that the most common tools recommended are a hand drill for getting out the old knot after cutting it off with some scissors and a dremel for removing left over epoxy residue, etc. I'm wondering if anyone uses a drill press for one or both of these tasks -- seems like it would be perfect. Just choose a drill bit that matches the diameter of the existent knot hole and clear out the remains of the old knot and bore out the old glue at the same time... Seems like it would be the best tool, also, if you decided to increase the size of a hole to place a larger knot.

Any drill press users out there with restoration tips? Do you drill out the knot the same way I see pictured with a hand drill i.e. multiple small holes, or just put in a large bit and core it out in one cautious motion?

I actually don't own a drill press at the moment, but have had my eye on one for some other projects but haven't been able to really justify it. If it seems like it would be a great tool for this, though, I might have enough small projects to tip me over the edge!

Cheers!

 

[Brownbear]

I use mine. I drill multiple overlapping holes from 1/4 to 3/8 in diameter and pry out the remainder. I wouldn't use a bit the same size as the hole as there is too much chance of hitting the side, but some do that using a forstner bit. But I can drill out an old knot and get the hole ready to sand in less than five minutes using multiple holes with no need to put the handle in a vise. I just hand hold it on a 2 by 4 chunk on the drill table. I like the nibbling approach for its controllability.

I also use the drill press to hold a rotary file or sanding disk or sanding flap drum to smooth and enlarge the holes. Again hand holding the handle and feeding the sander around the hole. There are guys here who do this all manually and I admire them for the zen of hand tools, but I have more tools than time for my hobbies so........................

 

[Rivguy]

I just used a well padded machinists vice with my drill press and a forstner bit. It worked very well. I cleaned up the remaining residue using my proxxon (think Dremel) with a flexible shaft using a burr and a sanding drum for a very clean finish. Good luck with your restore project. I agree with your thinking on using a project to add tools. I have a used the same system for years.

Regards,

Doug

 

[Blondie]

Drill Press is the ultimate tool for restoring brushes. Lock in a forstner bit and get 'er done.

 

[SliceOfLife]

I hold the brush in my hand and drill the knot out. I've had one or two brushes shatter on me doing this (of 20+). And they were brittle to begin with, so meh.

 

[Joe Edson]

I hold the brush in my hand and drill the knot out. I've had one or two brushes shatter on me doing this (of 20+). And they were brittle to begin with, so meh.

I do the same with a combo of the drill or dremel. I've also had about 1-2 break, but also have done in the range of 20+ so it is expected especially for how old these things are.

 

[pdmcadams]

Great info from all! I think this may motivate me to finally get a drill press since it seems that it works as well or better than a hand held drill. Hopefully there isn't DPAD...

 

[skipnord]

I use a drill press and forstner bit, a tad smaller than the knot - it's hard to get the bit perfectly centered.. I put the handle in a drill press vise and pad the jaws with a scrap of leather. My guess is the broken brush handles could the the result of trying to hold it by hand without a vise - I've tried that, and it didn't work - couldn't hold the handle straight and tight. Good luck with your new drill press! It would be really cool if you posted pictures of the process.

PS I usually chuck the handle in my lathe, again padded with leather, and finish cleaning up the hole with a lathe tool - then you can get the size perfect, and modify the depth of the hole, if needed.

 

[filedog]

Guess I'm in the minority , I just used my Dremel. I've only done one so far. It was a new handle, but I needed to deepen the hole, and widen it at the top. I used a relatively small bit, and made multiple holes. I will definitely use a larger bit next time, less work. I was really concerned about messing up the handle, but it went well. There was quite a bit of fine dust, I will also wear a dust mask.

 

[Rivguy]

Another advantage to the drill press is that since the handle is secure and the point of the work is centered, I am able to position a flexible nozzle from my shop ventilation at the point of the work. Any shop vac will work as well. This can be a very dusty project. Since we are rebuilding brushes of unknown origin with adhesives of unknown origin, a dust mask is definitely in order.

Regards,

Doug

 

[JeffE]

I use a Dremel with a small drill bit, get a nice size hole by "wobbling" the bit around as I'm drilling, and then switch to a sanding drum to grind out the remaining glue and hair around the edges. It leaves a nice, clean, perfect hole with little risk to the handle.

I can see how a drill press would be useful, but it does have one key disadvantage -- when you are using a dremel and holding the brush handle in your hand, you can really feel when you need to stop drilling and when you are in danger of damaging the brush. I could see a drill press having a lot less feedback, if that makes sense. On the other hand, I've never used a drill press for this kind of work, so I'll defer to those who have.

 

[pdmcadams]

OK, had to read about Forstner bits... I think I'm convinced to try the drill press for this and the other projects waiting in the wings. Of course, wouldn't hurt to have a dremel tool around the house also... I'll post pictures when I make the leap. Any suggestions on features to look for, free standing vs. table top, brnads to check out or avoid?

Cheers!

 

[skipnord]

I have a free standing. If you won't be using it a lot, check Northern Tool, or Harbor Freight. Asian, fair to partly cloudy quality. A bit up scale would be Grizzly. If you go with cheaper, check before you buy for no wobbles at the chuck, if possible. That's what I have used for nearly 40 years. If I were doing high tech machine work, it would be a different story. Good luck!

 

[Blondie]

I have a free standing. If you won't be using it a lot, check Northern Tool, or Harbor Freight. Asian, fair to partly cloudy quality. A bit up scale would be Grizzly. If you go with cheaper, check before you buy for no wobbles at the chuck, if possible. That's what I have used for nearly 40 years. If I were doing high tech machine work, it would be a different story. Good luck!

I have a Grizzly, works well for all the projects I have used it on. Grizzly are actually pretty decent tools.

 

[majikmaus]

I've only done 2, but I used a Forstner in a hand drill and cleaned up the edges with a half-round file. By filing the top of the old glue flat after removing the bristles, it was easier to center the bit and hold it steady, yielding near perfect results. A drill press would have made the job easier, though. the quality of TGN knots made these 2 my new favorite brushes. I even botched the glue job on one, but with a grade a silver tip, it still has the edge over all the rest. some day I'll get around to posting pics. enjoy your project and if at first you don't succeed, try, try again!

 

[Ski-Patroller]

I also used a Drill Press with a Forstner bit. I did some clean up with a Dremel Flex Shaft tool, since I did not have exactly the same size Forstner as the handle hole.

My only regret is I picked too soft a knot. I have several more handles to re-do so I can experiment.

 

[skipnord]

Hi Phil
Most Grizzly stuff is good. Friend of mine made all the cabinets for his house on a $1300 Griz table saw. I'd say most of their stuff is very good consumer grade. Same friend had a very bad experience with one of their air hammers. If I wasn't clear, I meant their drill presses were considerably better quality than Northern and Harbor Freight.

 

[gearchow]

+1 on the drill press. I also use it for drilling holes in wood. No other way I can drill a perfectly 90 degree angled hole.

I can see how a drill press would be useful, but it does have one key disadvantage -- when you are using a dremel and holding the brush handle in your hand, you can really feel when you need to stop drilling and when you are in danger of damaging the brush. I could see a drill press having a lot less feedback, if that makes sense. On the other hand, I've never used a drill press for this kind of work, so I'll defer to those who have.

It's very easy, drill a bit, lift up the drill, see where your at, lower the drill. loop on that till your done. You can also set a stop such that the drill bit will not go lower, which is a very good habit to get into.

<safety lecture>
I've never been a big fan of holding something in my hand that I am busy drilling out. Just thinking about it makes me cringe. Even using a Dremel tool, one should really have the work piece in a vise of some sort and don't forget your PPE. </safety lecture>


-jim

 

[cooncatbob]

The only problem with most drill presses is they spin too fast even on their lowest speed.
A drill press with a jack shaft that allows slower speed would be preferable.
I do all my low speed drilling on the metal lathe.

 

[pdmcadams]

I'll check out HF and Grizzly... I also have been looking at the Craftsman models and I think DeWalt (stocked at Lowe's.) Probably all would work fine for the fairly simple projects. I'll take the advice to see which has some slower speed options, too.

Cooncatbob, your setup wins, hands down. Tell us more about that machine...