I've got an old Erskine brush that I removed the the knot from. I'm going to put a new knot in it and put it back in service. I need good and bad glue experiences. What is a good long lasting adhesive? Thanks to all.
Any concensus on knot glue?
- Thread starter winston61
- Start date
ive heard of guys using superglue and epoxy with good results
Any two part epoxy will work just fine. Welcome to B&B. Enjoy!!
What I have heard recommended here and what I am using right now for my 1st restoration is:
Devcon 5 minute epoxy
http://www.amazon.com/ITW-20845-Devcon-Strength-5-minute/dp/B001QFGTHG
I got it at my closest Ace Hardware.
I was surprised at how much it takes to fill up a hollow, 2" handle.
I even shaved a cork and filled the handle with the cork before the epoxy.
Took at least 1/2 of the glue.
good luck
Devcon 5 minute epoxy
http://www.amazon.com/ITW-20845-Devcon-Strength-5-minute/dp/B001QFGTHG
I got it at my closest Ace Hardware.
I was surprised at how much it takes to fill up a hollow, 2" handle.
I even shaved a cork and filled the handle with the cork before the epoxy.
Took at least 1/2 of the glue.
good luck
Devcon makes a marine waterproof epoxy. I think the pivotal word is "waterproof". It may be that any epoxy will work but if it is designed to be waterproof then I would go with that because your brush is going to be in water, a lot!
Take Care,
Richard
Take Care,
Richard
Any quality epoxy will do. I often use 6 minute gel, the gel doesn't run and I glue the periphery of the knot plug rather than the bottom. All epoxy is waterproof. If you get any on someplace you wish you hadn't simply clean up with white vinegar before it cures. Some people develop skin allergies to epoxy so use gloves.
I use the Devcon waterproof epoxy for exactly the reason that Richard pointed out. One other thing about this stuff that I like is that it remains pliable. There is a little bit of 'give' to the cured product. Not a lot - just enough to absorb some stresses without causing strain to the bond between the knot's base and whatever I'm gluing it into. Kind of like the old Rubberset brushes -- the ones that were actually set in a rubbery compound. Apparently - not all 'Rubberset' brushes were actually set in rubber.
I've done about 12 brushes so far - all have been used and abused somewhat (heat, soaking, etc) and the bond seems to be holding up very very well.
One distraction of this waterproof adhesive is that it's white - so it's highly visible if I allow a bead of it to come up too high. Also - if when I use it to attach the parts a two-piece handle together it can show. It's difficult to have the epoxy not creep out beacuse it's fluid enough where just gravity allows it to get it to move around into all the nooks and crannies.
This WP epoxy can be painted easily enough, but right now I'm needing to find a dye or something to color it - I have to fit a cherry-swirl bakelite handle with a piece to receive the knot - I call that part the 'bucket' - and I don't want to go near the actual handle with paint - I hope to be able to dye the epoxy (before I start to seat the knot) a matching cherry-red color so the bead becomes somewhat invisible.
I wouild guess that just about any two-part epoxy could be used to seat a brush knot though - I've never had any two-part mix break down under heat/water exposure in other applications. I only use this waterproof stuff because it's the same price and it can't hurt to use something that is designed to be used in a wet environment.
I added this pic so you can see the epoxy - it just shows right where the hairs enter the handle.
I've done about 12 brushes so far - all have been used and abused somewhat (heat, soaking, etc) and the bond seems to be holding up very very well.
One distraction of this waterproof adhesive is that it's white - so it's highly visible if I allow a bead of it to come up too high. Also - if when I use it to attach the parts a two-piece handle together it can show. It's difficult to have the epoxy not creep out beacuse it's fluid enough where just gravity allows it to get it to move around into all the nooks and crannies.
This WP epoxy can be painted easily enough, but right now I'm needing to find a dye or something to color it - I have to fit a cherry-swirl bakelite handle with a piece to receive the knot - I call that part the 'bucket' - and I don't want to go near the actual handle with paint - I hope to be able to dye the epoxy (before I start to seat the knot) a matching cherry-red color so the bead becomes somewhat invisible.
I wouild guess that just about any two-part epoxy could be used to seat a brush knot though - I've never had any two-part mix break down under heat/water exposure in other applications. I only use this waterproof stuff because it's the same price and it can't hurt to use something that is designed to be used in a wet environment.
I added this pic so you can see the epoxy - it just shows right where the hairs enter the handle.
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Loctite fifty minute marine epoxy. You can find it at any hardware, or home improvement store.
Clayton
Clayton
+1 for the marine epoxy. I have only made two brushes, but I have a lot of experience gluing up knife handles. I use that epoxy cause the 5min stuff cures so fast that it is brittle. Not to much cause it's called marine epoxy, but cause of the cure time. Having brittle epoxy might not matter that much during normal use, but depending on the handle material (forms of plastic or acrylic, even other manmade), the knot could pop out if you drop yer brush on the floor from the shock. The odds of a brush hitting the floor square on the base to transmit the shock is super small, but it would suck if it did happen.
OTOH there are thousands of brushes out there that have 5min stuff and have been fine for years. Would a brush take as much abuse as a knife handle? certainly not. But considering the price is the same between the 5 min and the longer curing stuff I can wait the longer cure time.
I used a two part marine epoxy on mine.
This is the 2-part epoxy I use from Devcon, all of my brushes are glued with this product, it is water proof as well. I do not see the need for a special marine epoxy:
http://www.allfixepoxy.com/servlet/the-24/DEVCON-2-TON-EPOXY/Detail
Never had a failure with it.
http://www.allfixepoxy.com/servlet/the-24/DEVCON-2-TON-EPOXY/Detail
Never had a failure with it.
The stuff that Rudy gave a link to is exactly what I use. It is clear when it dries.
Take Care,
Richard
Take Care,
Richard
I use the "Loctite" 5 minute instant mix epoxy, available at Home Depot. I find it to be good fro filling handles, as well as setting knots. What I like about it is that it has a long nozzle that mixes the epoxy for you. No messing around with popsicle sticks to mix it and then spoon it into the surface to be filled/bonded. Here is a link.
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I would take this advice as extremely sound, considering the source. That's not to discredit anybody using marine epoxy, but this stuff certainly has the advantage of being clear (thus more forgiving in case of a mistake) and probably cheaper.
If Rudy uses it, it must be good. He has probably made more brushes than the rest of us put together, and if there were any problems with it, he would know. Consider me a convert. I have been using what ever slow set I can find at local hardware stores, and this has worked for me. I do not use fast set epoxies ever, for the reasons Gixxer gave - brittle, and unforgiving. I've made a few tang knives, and I used slow set epoxy there with good results.
Are all the Devcon epoxies labeled "2-Ton" substantially the same? I ask because I can buy what appears to be the same epoxy locally, however, it comes in a twin-syringe package. I don't believe I could use 18-ounces of epoxy quickly enough... before it went bad at any rate.
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I'm guessing it is just packaging.
Off-topic: are they all Merkur razors?
Off topic - no, only one razor in that shot is a Merkur.
From L to R;
Merkur Slant
Modern Exttended Tech handle with Modern Stainless Deluxe head
CoonCat Long handle with a Gillette 'New' head.
Back to glue - as I'm about to put together a few more handles I thought I'd revisit this thread.
I'm sticking with the Devcon marine epoxy - I like the flexibility it provides. I feel that my choice is based on similar considerations made by the makers of the old Rubberset brushes. I have to imagine that they thought the rubber would be a good water-resistant compound/adhesive, while also thinking that the rubber would remain pliable enough to allow some flexing inside the brush handle.
Maybe I'm wrong - but that's what I'm thinking.
While I am convinced that I could use any epoxy - I don't really have a reason to not use the Devcon Marine stuff - it costs the same as the other stuff that comes in syringes, so that's not an issue for me. I was considering an experiment with the Devcon Titanium I bed Remington 700s with, but it's expensive, and a pita to get. Plus - I'm not convinced that I need a 1/4 MOA brush to apply lather. :0).
While the Marine Epoxy's white coloring has given me a challenge to work with, it hasn't been a distraction. I'm not looking to become a brush-maker, I just like to make and/or assemble stuff I can use. I do this for fun, not profit. I give my brushes away as gifts and I've worked a few into my stable along the way. If I was looking at this from a commercial viewpoint maybe I'd feel differently about the entire process.
At any rate - I don't mean any of what I wrote to be taken as advice... it's just a document of what I'm doing. So far - what I am doing is working very well for me.
Still - I'm sure its possiible to make a brush out of a knot, a pine dowel, and gorilla glue.. So, whatever works - works. Right?
From L to R;
Merkur Slant
Modern Exttended Tech handle with Modern Stainless Deluxe head
CoonCat Long handle with a Gillette 'New' head.
Back to glue - as I'm about to put together a few more handles I thought I'd revisit this thread.
I'm sticking with the Devcon marine epoxy - I like the flexibility it provides. I feel that my choice is based on similar considerations made by the makers of the old Rubberset brushes. I have to imagine that they thought the rubber would be a good water-resistant compound/adhesive, while also thinking that the rubber would remain pliable enough to allow some flexing inside the brush handle.
Maybe I'm wrong - but that's what I'm thinking.
While I am convinced that I could use any epoxy - I don't really have a reason to not use the Devcon Marine stuff - it costs the same as the other stuff that comes in syringes, so that's not an issue for me. I was considering an experiment with the Devcon Titanium I bed Remington 700s with, but it's expensive, and a pita to get. Plus - I'm not convinced that I need a 1/4 MOA brush to apply lather. :0).
While the Marine Epoxy's white coloring has given me a challenge to work with, it hasn't been a distraction. I'm not looking to become a brush-maker, I just like to make and/or assemble stuff I can use. I do this for fun, not profit. I give my brushes away as gifts and I've worked a few into my stable along the way. If I was looking at this from a commercial viewpoint maybe I'd feel differently about the entire process.
At any rate - I don't mean any of what I wrote to be taken as advice... it's just a document of what I'm doing. So far - what I am doing is working very well for me.
Still - I'm sure its possiible to make a brush out of a knot, a pine dowel, and gorilla glue.. So, whatever works - works. Right?
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