Any advice for a new bicyclist?

[Miles]

Hello cycling members of B&B,

Just picked up a new bike and plan to spend a good deal of time on it, but as I am relatively new to the art and science of bicycling, your advice and tips on how o do it right would be appreciated. The reason for getting into this is that I am currently overweight and looking to fix it, so the bike is my chosen solution (plus diet change, going to the gym, etc.). I've owned a bicycle for years, but never truly enjoyed riding it as it is very heavy and not at all fast, so it just sits around like I used to. My new bike is so cool that I am excited to get out there and ride, and find it to be quite enjoyable.

Some details: Bike: Cannondale bad boy, hybrid style, 24 gears, disc brakes, no suspension, run flat narrow road tires.
I'm planning to use it for my commute to university as well as for riding paved bike trails/paths for fitness. Terrain will be urban, some bike lanes involved, not many crazy hills around here, so relatively flat riding.

So, what pitfalls should a newbie watch out for? Any suggestions for cool gear or products? General guidelines or pointers? Your input is appreciated, B&B hasn't steered me wrong yet (well, except for the lilac vegetal thing, but let's not go there).

 

[Groat]

Make sure your seat is set correctly. Many people, even those with some pretty fancy bikes, ride with the seat too low. You want there to be only a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is at the bottom of the cycle. That'll ensure that you're getting the most out of your exertion. Another 'newbie' mistake that some people tend to make is not really knowing when to shift gears. You want your pedaling cadence to be steady and your perceived exertion to be relatively low. Some people like to mash on the pedals which is inefficient as well as a little rougher on the drivetrain. If you find yourself standing up on the pedals to go up hills, you're not doing it right.

Carry a few bits of gear that will help you out if you encounter mechanical issues. At the very least, make sure you've got a flat kit and ensure you know how to use it. If you ride a bike, eventually you'll get a flat. They're super easy to fix, so long as you've got the stuff to do so. Carrying around a small kit beats the heck out of walking home. I keep a spare tube, multitool, patch kit and a CO2 pump in my commuter bag.

On a similar note, make sure you keep your tires aired up. On my commuter, I'll fill them up once a week or so. The skinnier tires need to be pumped up more often than fatter ones. If you don't fill them, you'll wear the tires prematurely and eventually get a pinch flat. One of the easiest and best things you can do for your bike is to keep the chain clean and lubricated. You can clean the chain with soap and water or degreaser and the special tools they make for the job. Whatever works for you. Buy a bottle of chain lube. It's cheap and it'll last forever. Put it on when the chain looks dry or your bike starts to get noisy. WD-40 is not lubricant. Don't use it to lube your bike.

If you feel as though you may be riding when it's dark out sometimes, get a set of lights. There are tons of good ones out there in a variety of price ranges. Don't cheap out on them, but you don't have to get the most expensive ones either.

Get a U-Lock if you'll be locking your bike up for more than a few minutes at a time. Cable locks are trivially easy to defeat and unless you live in a very low crime area shouldn't be used as a primary locking method. Get the smallest U-lock that will feasibly work for your bike, as extra space in a u-lock can be leveraged open with a car jack.

I'm sure there are more things to be said, but I think that's a good starting point.

 

[morganjg]

Groat gave some excellent advice, but I thought I might chime in with a few tips.

He brings up the idea of a flat kit, which is almost essential for those WITH experience; to that end I would advise going the opposite way. The Bad Boy has a nice wide 700x28 tire, which is advertised as being somewhat puncture resistant. Since this bike is getting you around town and a few extra grams aren't necessarily a deal breaker, I would recommend switching inner tubes to something like the Slime tube. It is pre-loaded with tire sealant and for someone with limited experience, sure beats fixing flats roadside. Or get something that goes between the tire and inner tube like a tire liner that offers puncture resistance (though the liners offer little sidewall protection or protection against pinch flats.) After you wear these tires out, look for something even more puncture resistant like something triple tread with kevlar (Maxxis ReFuse, Bontrager Jones Triple Tread, Gatorskins, etc.) You can never go wrong with a tire that is a bit heavier but offers great flat protection.

Lights are absolutely a must. Even the cheapest lights, though they may not help you see, will help you get noticed. Most of them have a permanent mount but the lights will easily come off for day riding. Just throw them in a bag and go.

Locks are important. U-Locks are good because they mount to the frame when not in use and make carrying easy. Learn how to remove your front wheel and place it inside the frame and the object being locked to. Nothing is more frustrating than having a nice front wheel stolen and then finding out that it's going to cost a few hundred dollars for an exact replacement and new brake rotor. Just sucks. I use the New York chain lock, mainly because the extra slack will chain around anything, but it weighs something ridiculous and costs a cool $100. Make sure when you lock your bike the lock goes through the wheels AND the frame. Don't give thieves anything to work with.

Lube is a big point. Premature chain wear AND cassette/chain ring fatigue will occur if you let the chain run dry. If you are new to the game, try a thicker lube like Pedros Ice Wax. It will give you a longer life with less maintenance.. but will also attract a bit more dirt. Scrub it up every few weeks with a citrus based de-greaser and a stiff brush, but never soak the chain in anything. You want to maintain the lube deep into the pins and grooves.

Wear a helmet no matter what. Pride is irrelevant, your head looks better in one piece! Gloves are also a good idea, one good spill without them will tear up your hands when you put them down to save the rest of your body.

There is an infinite list of tips, but you are well on your way. Seems like a lot I'm sure, but you definitely bought a great urban ride and you will most definitely enjoy the hell out of it. Good luck and happy pedaling.

 

[AverageJoe]

Pump your tires up to max. rated pressure BEFORE EACH AND EVERY RIDE! People don't realize how fast tires lose air from day to day. I go daily and it's not uncommon to have the tires lose 10 psi from one day to the next! Keep the chain lubed. Skip the fancy bike shop lubes and use TRI-FLOW (get the dropper-type bottle). Put on, wipe off excess by cranking pedals backward with paper towel wrapped around chain. Get a water bottle and cage.

I test rode a Bad Boy once---pretty cool, but I don't like the single front fork!! That's bad design, I don't care who designed it!! (I have a BS in Engineering design) No matter how beefy that fork is, it is STILL only supported on one side (cantilevered) which is much weaker than a normal fork on both sides. It's under constant bending stress which is easily eliminated by using 2 forks!! Cannondale ignored basic good design rules and common sense design in order to be 'different' or 'cool'. It's not like it's a huge weight savings. That's the whole reason I didn't buy that bike and made (converted) my own single speed instead. Years from now, after all those Bad Boys have metal fatigue in their 1-sided forks, we're going to start hearing about a lot of bike crashes when these things finally break loose.

Think of a chin-up bar: if you took one end support away, it wouldn't take much weight to bend that thing down. With a support at each end of the bar, a huge guy can hang on it with no problems whatsoever. It's common sense.

Anyway, more than I meant to write, but I'm a fan of bikes as well as design/engineering/tech stuff so I had to weigh in, especially having ridden this very bike myself once.

 

[Miles]

Thanks for the advice so far, gents!

AverageJoe: the model I have sports Cannondale's "fatty" fork, which is a traditional two blade job, so no worries of metal fatigue other than what my own carcass puts on it.

Picked up a good floor pump that can handle presta valves and check/pump each tire before each ride.

Scored a helmet before I even took delivery of the bike: it's for transpo to university and I've just got to protect my investment.

Got a nice multitool to bring with, and even bring my little altoids tin first aid kit.

Security: nice solid Kryptonite U-lock (not the heaviest New York line, but one step down) in combination with a stout (yet still not very secure) cable lock threaded through components. As a bonus, there is an option of using a secure bicycle compound at school for parking and lockup, which I very much plan to do. Key code entry to a fenced enclosure with traditional heavy duty bike racks and security cameras, it's a good setup.

Good call on the chain cleaning/lube thing, I'll be at the bike shop today and will see what they have in stock.

Any more tips, please share. It helps a lot!

 

[AverageJoe]

One more good tip I learned somewhere is about chain cleaning: If you buy a "Quick-Link", you can remove chain easily and quickly without tools, which makes cleaning very simple. A good tip I use for that is to remove the chain, put it in a Gatorade or similar plastic bottle with Simple Green in it, put cap on and shake, shake, shake, shake!! This removes and deep-cleans all the crud that a simple 'wipe' does not. Remove chain from bottle and wipe off excess and/or give it a blast of compressed air. Clean gears with gear-cleaning brush/paper towels. Put it all back together, lube, and go!! Niiiiice and quiet!!!

Note: If it's really dirty and/or you're really fussy, replace the Simple Green with fresh and repeat the process! Between 'deep-cleanings' like this, I just use a chain brush (Pedro's??)

 

[Commander Quan]

Make sure your seat is set correctly. Many people, even those with some pretty fancy bikes, ride with the seat too low. You want there to be only a slight bend in your knee when the pedal is at the bottom of the cycle. That'll ensure that you're getting the most out of your exertion.

Thank you for making this your first point. I haven't ridden a bike in years, but it seams like every day I see some dope riding their bike and their knees are almost above their hips at the top of the pedal rotation. It makes me want to stop my car and jam a stick through their spokes. I'm all for sharing the road with bicyclists, but not when it takes them 15 seconds to ride through an intersection because they can barely push down on the pedals, that's just unsafe.

 

[Patman27]

HELMET! Bike shorts (don't have to be spandex, but get some extra padding down there for your longer rides)!

+1 for a little red led light so you are sure to be seen at night. They are cheap and light (weight, that is)

Please don't ride on the sidewalk or against traffic and obey all the rules you would while driving. I know it seems dumb, but there are so many people I see riding that are dangerously breaking traffic laws.

Finally, check around the interweb for some bike friendly routes in your town. The more cyclists using the route, the more drivers will be used to them, and the safer it will be. Enjoy the ride!

 

[petr]

Buy the best bike shorts (padded) you can find. It makes a huge difference.

Keep a small bright light when you're caught in the dark. Don't screw around, people will run over you. I use and love this one. http://www.zebralight.com/ I wear it or wrap it around the front handlebar. It's freaky bright. +1 on adding the little cheap red tail-light.

I love Cannondale! Love my 29'er.

Use the dry teflon chain lube. Almost everything is a real mess.

 

[Groat]

Thank you for making this your first point.

Properly fitting and adjusting a bike is one of the easiest things that can make the biggest difference in the way it rides. Some of the adjustments are not common sense to people, especially those new to cycling. The 'seat too low' thing is just one of the most common ones I see. It can feel safer to be able to sit on the seat and have both feet flat on the ground, but you're just crippling yourself before you've begun that way. The other adjustments, like moving the seat around or changing out a stem, are less easy to assign a rule of thumb to.

Last summer, I was riding on a popular bike path in the area when I came across a guy with his seat way too low. We're talking like half as high as it should have been. The reason why this particular incident has stuck in my mind is because he was riding a Trek Madone 4 or 5 series, essentially a $3000+ bike.

 

[namya]

Excellent advice from all- I would say the same thing I recommend to all my friends turning to bicycling- get the best padded shorts you can afford. This has made the single most influential difference in their enjoyment and comfort (and that always leads to persistence..).

 

[morganjg]

I test rode a Bad Boy once---pretty cool, but I don't like the single front fork!! That's bad design, I don't care who designed it!! (I have a BS in Engineering design) No matter how beefy that fork is, it is STILL only supported on one side (cantilevered) which is much weaker than a normal fork on both sides. It's under constant bending stress which is easily eliminated by using 2 forks!! Cannondale ignored basic good design rules and common sense design in order to be 'different' or 'cool'. It's not like it's a huge weight savings. That's the whole reason I didn't buy that bike and made (converted) my own single speed instead. Years from now, after all those Bad Boys have metal fatigue in their 1-sided forks, we're going to start hearing about a lot of bike crashes when these things finally break loose.

Think of a chin-up bar: if you took one end support away, it wouldn't take much weight to bend that thing down. With a support at each end of the bar, a huge guy can hang on it with no problems whatsoever. It's common sense.

Cannondale certainly did not make the Lefty fork without proper engineering being put into play. That fork has been used successfully in XC and Freeride mountain biking and NEVER gets a bad review. The principle idea behind the design was to minimize downtime needed to replace a tire/tube on the course and yet still be able to offer all of the advantages of the Fatty line of Head Shocks, not to look cool. The carbon arm currently being used on Lefty fork is more than suitable for side stress even on the roughest trails. The larger through axle provides the wheel with proper support without fear of bending or failure. The fork would more than likely be used on more bicycles had Cannondale not engineered the steerer tube for a larger 1.5 inch headset bearing. The lock out is flawless, the turning is impressive, the fork overall is quite nice. I have thought many times of upgrading to a Lefty fork, but the price is a huge constraint.

 

[RaiserLiebe]

+1 on the helmet. I fell once at very low speed and broke a helmet. Much easier to replace than my skull.

Focus on the best stuff for the parts of you that are bearing your weight- get good padded gloves, padded bike shorts, and good shoes (are you clipping in, or regular pedals?)

Practice changing out a flat before you have to do it on the road.

Always be safe- obey traffic laws! Ride with traffic! Be visible! (lights, bright color clothing).

Finally, enjoy! Ride with a buddy or a group if you can to help keep up motivation and have fun. Also, bikes in groups are easier for motorists to see as compared to single riders.

I've lost 50 pounds cycling (and portion control- WeightWatchers). It's a great enjoyable exercise. Best of luck to you!

 

[AverageJoe]

If tire-changing speed and uniqueness is more important to someone than rock-solid design strength, then I could see the point of Cannondale's design. Interesting, but I'll pass.

 

[TimmyBoston]

Helmet, flat kit, cycling shoes, cycling shorts all the stuff covered above.

For your workouts, for the next few months, just log as base miles. Building up mitochondria and getting your body used to working out is most important. Once you've done that for a while, looking into a training plan. Don't discount rest days, your legs will need some days off.

One more thing, if you fall and crack your noggin, even if the helmet looks fine, get a new one regardless. Don't take chances with your brain.

 

[Miles]

...For your workouts, for the next few months, just log as base miles. Building up mitochondria and getting your body used to working out is most important. Once you've done that for a while, looking into a training plan. Don't discount rest days, your legs will need some days off...

I've already begun using a phone/computer app called endomondo that tracks my rides quite nicely. Cool to be able to track progress.

I'll have to work on the visibility thing, what with the stealth bomber of bicycles, but I've put in lights for the back and removable head lamp, all of which can just flash for visibility or run steady. Now I just need to work on my flat changing skills for just in case.

 

[nemo]

Cycling shoes + clipless pedals may be the best upgrade anyone can make in my opinion. (Huge Sidi fan here!)

 

[Legion]

Just have fun with it. Bicycling (like shaving?) can get very complicated and expensive if you get carried away. Try to remember what it was like riding a bike when you were a kid. You just jumped on, started peddling and were away with the wind in your hair.

That is kind of why I went for my 29'r ridged single speed. It is just like a big BMX for grown ups. I just tuck my trouser leg into my sock and ride. It's about as simple as biking gets these days.

The points others have made above about safety, security and maintenance are all really important. But I have to add just have fun. The more you enjoy it, the more you will ride, the fitter you will get. If you overcomplicate or over think it, the whole process might start feeling like a chore.

 

[scottish steve]

Lots of great advice here. Don't be afraid to spend aaaages micro-adjusting your saddle- 1/2 an inch can make a difference in height, angle and rake.
Cadence is important- you can always tell 'real' cyclists because they look like they're in too low a gear, but pedal very smoothly with little apparent effort.
Pedalling technique can make a big difference to your progress but takes a bit of geting used to- SIT on your seat and try to put as little weight as possible on your pedals. The leg which is going UP should be lifting itself, not being raised by the force on the opposite pedal. As your posterior become superior, you will be able to do this more and more effectively for longer periods. Ideally, with the right cadence and refinement of pedalling action it should feel like you legs are turning themselves.....until you get off the bike that is!
Rest.
Many athletes used to think that going out all stiff and sore from the day before was good for toughening the legs up and proved their commitment. In fact, pain is a sign of repair and it's a good idea to pay attention to it.
Get water bottle(s) on your bike. Keep hydrated.
Pay attention too, to your surroundings- especially at night. Avoid slamming on the brakes if you see a suspect car coming- LOOK THEM IN THE EYE or change your light setting to flicker/full beam, so they know you've seen them. People notice when they are getting looked at and it's very hard to knock someone down if you are staring straight at them. Learn escape lanes so you can veer off instead of slowing down if in danger of being collided with.
Get highly reflective tape and tape the word 'bike' to your bag and downtube.
Get your wheels trued as soon as they start to drift so much they make contact with your pads.
Have fun and take it easy until you know your ready for it.

 

[Franziskaner]

+1 on proper bike adjustment. I had knee pain on my hybrid. Checking various forums for suggestions gave me the idea to play with saddle height. Raising the seat post only 1cm did the trick--no more knee pain, ever. I had a professional fitting done on my road bike last season, as I was still having trouble with soreness (and the dreaded 'numb maleness') on very long rides. The fitter played with the saddle height and fore/aft position, repositioned the handlebars for a better angle on the brake hoods, and installed a 2cm shorter stem. A century ride can still make me sore, but the numbness is gone--a very good thing!

+1 as well on staying hydrated. I ran myself out of water on a 55 mile ride a couple of months ago. Parks in Minnesota have to shut the water systems off until about mid-May,and I was miles past the last store on the route. I was one cramping, sore, very slow, crabby unit for the last 15 or 20 miles of that ride. Take plenty of water or sports drink, and always get more if there's any chance you might run low!

The better you know yourself and your bike, the more fun cycling can be. If you're interested, find a club in your area--they'll motivate you to train harder, teach you new things, and help you get faster.