An interesting article by a German honemeister...

[Sputnik]

A nice article with pictures. Fans of Thuringians stones and Coticules will be especially pleased!

http://fine-razors.de/index.php?option=com_content&task=blogcategory&id=7&Itemid=9

 

[ouch]

I don't speak a word of German, but the pictures were nice.

 

[Noswad]

I don't speak a word of German, but the pictures were nice.

There is a language selection button that can be changed to English. It is located just below the handle of the razor on the top left corner.

 

[ouch]

There ya go. Thanks!

 

[mainaman]

Here translated version:

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Razor Sharpening


Sharpening knives I would like to thank Juergen, who has allowed me to sharpen his very clear and concise instructions on how to set of razors here. If we heed these instructions, it is possible for anyone after a short exercise to bring a knife to shaving sharpness.
A sharpening guide
I describe here the way how I sharpen knives, without any claim to universality. But I know that this method works and it is reduced to the essential, certainly appropriate for the beginner.
First I would like to say a few words about the equipment schreiben.Da are at the top of the grinding stones speak of as the main sharpening tools. On the following picture we see stones that have to be not always in the water.
From left to right:
The Thüringer Manufaktum, the corresponding rubbing, a similar stone, which I once fished out of the bay, next to it) my best pieces (stone, a BBB Dick (22X7 cm) and finally the Thuringian of MST.

And so do I store the stones as possible should always be in the water.

On the left we see a 1000s CERAX of MST, in the middle a 2000s Aoto Dick (a wahnsinns stone) and the right, a 8000 King.
It is important to ensure that this type of storage is taking place under exclusion of light, because otherwise forming algae in the water. If these stones are not always needed, they can also, of course, keep dry. However, they should be at least 30 minutes prior to use are placed in water.
Basically, I am firmly convinced that a person who repairs only wants to keep his small utility knife, which is operated with a combination of stone 1000er/6000er well. I have had good experiences with the Kingstone from Dick. With the 6000 side also quickly gets to its limits. It is quite soft bound us to "dig" quickly, if you are not careful. To try out but once, whether dealing with one of the sharpening stones in general is, the King only times the cheapest, workable solution. It goes even cheaper, but you think: "There is nothing more expensive than cheap systems Tools"

As a base for the stone serves me a piece of birch plywood, in which I have attached to the bottom four furniture door damper, so that moisture may crawls under the table, can evaporate again. Multiplex is waterproof.
On this "buck" the stone is now high enough, and I do not run the risk of sharpening his fingers somewhere to set up or stay even hang. In addition, soaks up the stone formally adopted on the wooden board.

Before I begin with the sharpening, I glue only the back of the blade and, if present, also the blade engraving, with a thin tape. The former, so that the back is not thin, and the cutting angle of this does not change too much, the latter to take the blade engraved with rubbing the Schleiffschlamms no damage.

First I glue the top of the role of the role on my desktop and then roll a bit more from the strip as the blade is long.

I set the blade at about Erl centered under the tape, she directed and only then glue them on the back and from there down to the pages.

Now I cut off with an arbitrary but sharp blade the supernatant.
Only now begins the actual sharpening work.
I take the stone out of the water, put it on the wooden board and create a "Nagura," which is also stored in a water tank, in a circular motion the so-called slurry. I repeat this process as soon as I notice that the stone shall not lift ".

Here the 1000s CERAX and Nagura
I think it is extremely important always to start with the 1000s rock. Whether it is an old, used knives in the bay, or one of the utility knife, which has only grown dull acting. It is in both cases, therefore, make the Schneidfacette, or enable them straight from the convex into the state back. This material must be removed, and the same goes with the 1000. They leave but now do not tame, because a 1000 is not a gravel road. Many utility knife and chisel, brings you even with this stone on a Endschärfe can from most people only dream about.
So again: In the 1000s, the knife is sharpened. All that follows steinmäßig, is the long program, is working through the stupid sharpening routine. The decision on the success or failure, about 30 minutes or 3 hours of work but is taken at the 1000 stone.
Now I'm only about 10-20 times per page relapses.

The pros will probably line up at the sight of these pictures, the neck hairs. I use both hands, or fingers of both hands. With the fingers, resting on the blade, in my case, those of the left hand, typically carry no pressure. They are for me only control, abutments, ... hard to describe. It's like riding a bicycle. With your hands on the handlebars `s easy is safer, although it indeed works freehand.

It may make to each his own. I can only say that I've already got a lot of new knives from major manufacturers for the first cut lay in my hands, and unfortunately had to say that, with the sharpening of these same arts professionals (not more) is far away. So rather a two-handed rasurtauglichen razor come, when with a professionally sharpened iron-handed then, the pleasure of shaving blades spoiling.
Particular attention is dedicated to the head and the end of the blade. Depending on the desired shape, I start with the blade almost parallel to the grinding direction, the blade slightly raised on this issue and turn it more or less quickly in a forward movement so far to the edge at right angles pointing towards the feed direction. At the same time I lower the blade too, so that the blade rests flat on the end of this movement on the stone. This I achieve a smooth transition from a blunt head into a sharp edge. The result is a more or less depending on the design strong rounding on the knife head, or end. Only this curve, or lack of it (is) of Contour blades is responsible for the reduced or increased risk of injury, and does not purport to how much, but the head shape. I can grind to a Geradkopf as good a gentle curve to the top as in a Roundhead, Spanish or Schorkopf.
This "screwed" into the stone of course I'm not at every thrust. This is very much dependent on the state of the blade before sharpening. Great care also in the raising of the issue at the beginning of the movement required. The blade will be glad to dig into the stone, particularly in the synthetic, soft bound stones, especially the 6000s King.
Otherwise, the blade is simply pushed back and is always being turned on its back, and as already mentioned, no pressure is exerted on the cutting edge. I avoid the generally recommended cross hatch. This is in fact the center of the blade inserted twice as often on the stone as the two ends, which leads to a hollow ground viewed from the side view. With a suitably large stone and a straight blade was raised this issue does not arise. For smaller stones, I must just make sure to put the episodes together as possible, so with as little overlap as possible. Already the track in the slurry can provide information about the condition of the blade. If the slurry clean "doctored" so the blade is straight and without any significant gaps. However, remains behind a mud trail on the stone, so it's usually a sign of the longitudinal curved blade knife an already hollow, smoothed, or just more or less large gaps.

I now take a tool on hand, which I have not yet mentioned. A magnifying glass !!!!!
I work with a thread count with 12-times magnification, colleagues hold a Einschlaglupe with 30-times magnification for the only true one, and I can only say that it is certainly not a disadvantage is the result of his work as much as possible enlarged view . However, the potential for frustration with increasing magnification, and hence the demand grows for more and finer stones.
After the first few episodes, it is very important to inspect the edge with a magnifying glass to make an initial inventory. In normal, not ancient, rusty, jagged blade I think before the next general condition. The knife is new and was removed only briefly on the stone. And I've always found that the manufacturers do not point back as a reference company for the cutting angle. Want to say that the back was slightly raised by the sharpening stone.
I see now how is a new cutting angle. This means that the first peak remains unaffected by the stone. With a magnifying glass which can be seen very well. The tip itself remains yet to bare, while behind it clearly recognizes the grooves, which leaves the 1000 stone. Now I loop until I can see nothing of the previous state has achieved thus a homogeneous shading over the entire cutting length and width. It is possible that this new facet is not equal width. The reason is that some blades are more or less curved (on the edge bearing of) where you can always find that one page for example, has a wider blade, the opposite then a correspondingly smaller. This is not so tragic, as long as you always take heed that the new grinding pattern itself will actually spill over the top.
A knife has a first basic ground behind him and is only after long use has become dull. The image under the microscope is similar to the long dar. The leather is polished Schneidfacette become spherical after the first few episodes at the top yet, and as previously described is formed from back to front a new edge. Now, however, eliminates the need trimming if a curved blade, because that's happened before.
It is here at this point, most mistakes are made, even by me! The cutting edge is not shaped right to the top, or perhaps there are still quite small gaps. Now we think that the rest are next on the finer stones is self-evident, and you opt for completely meaningless further action. The erosion, which is unable to afford the finer stones near sufficient to ensure the design of the edge.
I can not repeat often enough. The blade is sharpened in the 1000s and refined at all of the following stones. If we stubbornly holding out, is the result of work done so quickly, because here we are concerned only about the "ripples" to equalize the "relief" of the 1000s, and the previous stone, which comes from experience rather quickly, the more faster, more intermediates in the grain available.
It is important even if you abklebt back, regularly refresh the tape, which is at work on the 1000 depending on the condition of the blade also be repeated several times. Happen in any event when switching to the next finer stone must. One can tentatively changing times with a knife from the 1000s to a 6000s without abzukleben the back and through the magnifying glass will be seen that the fine stone does not touch the tip of the blade.
So I work my way up to my finest stone through, but as I said, everything is according to the 1000 no longer work.

Now it's down to leather, and thus to the topic, which can be explained, unfortunately not as simple as the handling of the stones. There's a lot of feeling with the game, plenty of experience, something perhaps a little voodoo and belief.
Here, everyone must find for himself and his knife in the right direction and I would like to consider myself on this topic, as short as possible.
If until this point everything was done correctly, it has given rise to a perfect Schneidfacette, which has an angle of about 16-20 °. This cutting can now easily mow the Armhaare, but for a smooth and close shave, it still is not enough.
We must now create the so-called burr. First, I do in order to produce some of the features of the ridge to the paste belt. I prefer this a former hanging strop, which I have stuck to a Holzkantel, and had then coated with chromium Luke. On some blades but I use also coated with chromium hanging strop. There is no fixed rule for me, but rather tendencies. And although I tend more to hanging strop is more blunt the blade.
The blade is now, incidentally, no longer pushed, but without pressure with the back pulled forward.
On the paste belt, you should not linger too long. Lieber after ten moves per side on the untreated leather belt change times and then perform a hair test. If you are exaggerating with the paste, then the ridge is inbred, and therefore becomes unstable, and after a few limp Rasierzügen makes, or even break off. One has just arisen ridge is optimal.
This activity also creates the so-called second cutting angle. The elasticity of the leather, the surface hohnende strokes in a more obtuse angle at the cutting edge by the result of a second cutting angle. Whether this angle is really important, or whether it simply a by-product in production is of the ridge, I can not say. I can not imagine, however, that this second, somewhat obtuse angle of the ridge builds better if the blade when shaving about 30 ° away from the skin bends.
Anyway, this second cutting angle can be seen only with a magnifying glass, as a very fine line, a kind of corona at the cutting tip.

The homemade with, chromium treated Stoßriemen.
Finally geledert will continue on an untreated leather. This can be quite a hundred lines per page. Again, I try to vollhohlen blades begin to cope with the most rigid strap, in this case, a so-called Wekstattriemen too.

Mostly, I must also go still on the hanging strop. The best experience I have made with the pure Juchtenlederriemen XXL.

About this issue could certainly write a lot more detail, but I do not think that is particularly effective, because here are playing mainly the personal experiences and preferences play a role. I can only recommend to an old iron fire basket on ebay and just get rid of. And before you start out expensive leather strap cut into pieces, you can only practice times with an old belt.
Good luck Back

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[SliceOfLife]

I'm having a little trouble understanding the translation for everything between 1k and stropping, but thanks for the link.


Do you suppose "which I once fished out of the bay, next to it" means he won it on eBay or that he actually found it in a bay and got it cut to a hone?

 

[holli4pirating]

mainaman: I hope you checked with the website you copied all that from before posting it to here, especially given that you are linking to their images and thus using up their bandwidth.

 

[Klarion]

Oh, that's Buddel's site! He posts around here, and you can see some of the razors he makes pop up every now and again. The article proved to be a very interesting read.