To be honest I have never really thought much about it. I know that the spine doesn't touch my face. I typically just put the razor on my face and start shaving. I think the spine stays off of my face by the width of about a spine? If I need to alter my angle a bit I will depending on which portion of my face I am shaving. I have never actually thought about the angle and degree of the razor in relation to my face. I just put the metal down and enjoy what feels right. Cheers!
An angle on straight razor shaving
- Thread starter Polarbeard
- Start date
Keep in mind that the angle is directly related to pressure. Any deflection in the skin will increase the effective angle drastically.
For me it's a spine width or less. Ears to nose and from nose down the upper lip start much steeper but flatten as soon as my face geometry allows. That's both WTG and XTG passes. The ATG pass is steeper, maybe spine width and a half. No way I can see the razor every being flat against my face.
No clue on the actual angle as I shave with a razor, not a protractor.
No clue on the actual angle as I shave with a razor, not a protractor.
I know 30degrees for me is too much. Mostly around 20 or slightly more than the bevel angle.
That's a really good point.
And spine on the face effectively stops skin deflection around the edge if you're stretching the skin enough. You'd have to consciously apply pressure to cause it. Raising the angle makes it completely unavoidable (that's actually WHY angling the razor makes it cut better... you turn your face into a cutting board. It's hanging hair vs chopping on your face). Coincidence? Our lizard overlords say no.
I hold the spine against my face except where I can't.
ok so everyone keeps tellin me to keep the spine close to the face. well im finding i get a way better shave at a spine width or maybe a fraction more. it feels like it glides over the skin while cutting, there isnt a lot of blade jumping if any the trick im having is to us the right amound of pressure. im gonna shave tomorow with my razor that is a fair bit higher off the face than normal. i can see why they say 30 degrees. it deff glides more smoothly and cuts better. whats with all the hate about using a razor at 30 degrees?
I think this was the reaction to the misconception of holding the razor at almost 90 degree angle, which is basically scraping instead of slicing the hair.
What they mean on the forum with keeping the spine close/r to the face is approximately a spine width.
I keep the spine in contact with the skin when I shave on my cheeks, but I increase the angle (approximatively one spine width) when I do the chin, mustache area and neck. I tend to increase it even more when the edge is not that sharp anymore, and when I realize it, I know it’s time to hone it.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
@Staggers and Jags, there are no rules in SR shaving. Every man's face different, otherwise we would all have an incredibly handsome face the same as @FarmerTan. The thing to do is find what works best for you, your face and your shaving style.
Basically I find that the keener the edge the flatter the shave angle I need to use. Shaving WTG for me is better with a higher shave angle (about a spine thickness off the skin), XTG a flatter angle and ATG the flatest angle (about ½ a spine thickness off the face). That's just me.
The 30° thing is often mentioned in internet SR tutorials which is about 1½ to 2 spine thicknesses off the face. This may work best for some but, from the experience of many on B&B, not many.
Basically I find that the keener the edge the flatter the shave angle I need to use. Shaving WTG for me is better with a higher shave angle (about a spine thickness off the skin), XTG a flatter angle and ATG the flatest angle (about ½ a spine thickness off the face). That's just me.
The 30° thing is often mentioned in internet SR tutorials which is about 1½ to 2 spine thicknesses off the face. This may work best for some but, from the experience of many on B&B, not many.
rbscebu
Girls call me Makaluod
With my SR students, I find it best to start them off with a fairly flat shave angle (safer?) and let them progress to a steeper angle until they find what works best for them. Some students prefer the very flat angle while others move right up to a shave angle that I consider to be scraping not shaving. Each to their own.
At least this gets them thinking about shave angle and what effect it has on their shave. That to me is probably the most important thing.
At least this gets them thinking about shave angle and what effect it has on their shave. That to me is probably the most important thing.
