What's new

An adjustable three piece DE. Really.

I have a thing for the unusual, so when I saw this, I had to have it. What you see in the first photo are the only markings on the razor, namely the “Xs” and “Os”, the numeral “3” and “Made in USA” embossed on the bottom of the plate, and also the numeral “3” embossed on the underside of the cap. Mine came attached to a ball end Tech handle, so I don’t have any idea what the original handle looks like. In a bit of searching, I haven’t been able to come with any ID on this one. I’ve never seen one, or anything like it, before.

$IMG_5469.jpg$IMG_5470.jpg
$IMG_5472.jpg


What’s really fascinating about this razor is the design of the head. It incorporates what amounts to a permanent shim that is riveted to a narrow ridge along the center of the plate, thus creating a space between the blade edge and the safety bar. As the cap is tightened, this shim bends (along with the blade), creating tension against the cap as it draws down, and this tension is substantial over a range of blade curvature and gap. Thus in operation, this flexible shim functions as a built-in adjustment mechanism.

$IMG_5474.jpg

This photo shows the razor, loaded with a blade, in the “wide open” position. Believe it or not, the handle and cap at this point are plenty tight enough to use and, as you can see, the blade is virtually flat and the gap is prodigious, to say the least.

$IMG_5476.jpg

This photo shows the razor fully cranked down, imparting a pretty good curve to the blade, and showing a gap that, while still substantial, looks quite a bit more civilized.

I get it that this is same principle as loosening the handle on a three piece, which is often suggested as a way to increase aggressiveness (I believe that the instructions for at least some Gillette Old Types included this direction). However, I’ve usually found this to be a dicey proposition, as on most razors there doesn’t seem to be much room between full-tight and too loose to be stable. What’s unique about this specimen is the deliberate (and I think, ingenious) design feature that takes full advantage of this concept: the steel shim on this razor is much stiffer than a blade alone, so once engaged, it provides plenty of tension to keep everything snug over several turns of range. The result is a fairly wide—and continuous—useable range of blade curvature and gap. Yet another take on a better DE mousetrap.

I’d be grateful to hear from any members who might have some intelligence on this one, as I’m very curious about when and by whom this razor was produced.
I haven’t had a chance to shave with this one yet, but I plan to fire it up tomorrow. I think I’ll start with the “mildest” setting.:001_rolle
 
Last edited:
Very nice find! I have not seen one in the wild. If i did see one it would be bought if the price were reasonable. Looks well made and likely a pretty good shaver. Let us know how that shave goes!:thumbup:
 
Fascinating! It's interesting to see the different adjustability mechanisms in different razors.
This one seems like a very sensible solution - I wonder why it wasn't more widely used?
 
Fascinating! It's interesting to see the different adjustability mechanisms in different razors.
This one seems like a very sensible solution - I wonder why it wasn't more widely used?
After using the razor this morning, I wondered the very same thing. The adjustment mechanism works beautifully. A more complete report is in the works.
 
Thanks to Chronarch and some follow-up research, the mystery is solved. Although not branded as such, this is definitely the Berkeley Shave Selector, made by the Consolidated Razor Blade Co. of Jersey City, circa 1930s. Given that vintage and the amazingly simple but effective adjustment mechanism, you have to wonder why it took nearly 20 more years for Gillette to come up with an adjustable DE. Based on its apparent rarity, I assume that the Shave Selector never really caught on, despite the fact that it's an excellent, highly functional razor. Even back then, it was all about brand and marketing.
 
I’m happy to report that this is a very nice shaver and that the adjustment feature really works well. I started with the razor fully tightened, i.e. at the mildest “setting”. At this setting I found the razor to be a bit milder than I expected given the naked-eye appearance of the blade gap, but it still seemed efficient enough. I wanted to test out the range of adjustment, so I opened it up about ½ turn of the handle to finish up the first WTG pass. This produced a noticeable increase in blade feel, but still well within what I would call the medium range.

For my ATG pass, I tightened it back down, as I have a couple of areas on my neck that are prone to irritation when shaving AGT with a more aggressive razor. This produced a smooth and efficient pass, very nice. Finally, to touch up a couple of trouble spots that I have difficulty getting smooth, I opened it up about a full turn. The increase in blade feel at this setting was immediately apparent, and the audio feedback made it clear that the razor was removing stubble that the milder setting passes had left behind. This setting demanded a light touch, but was quite effective in cleaning up these trouble spots. The end result was an excellent shave; smooth, comfortable and very close.

It’s only one shave, but my initial impression of this razor is very positive. It is well-designed, with very good geometry and spot-on blade alignment. And while the built-in shim adjustment feature might look like a bit of a gimmick, it actually functions really well. I left some of the range of adjustability achievable with this razor on the table, so there is more headroom on the aggressive end of the scale. I tend to prefer razors in the medium range, so I doubt I’ll be going out there too far, but this razor will definitely be seeing plenty of action in my rotation.

Thanks to Chronarch for the lead on the background on this excellent, innovative razor.
 
I've never seen a razor like the OP's, so I'm greatly enjoying this thread.
The permanent shim idea is very clever. I have used a very stiff shim myself in various razors, such as the Old Type and Eclipse Red Ring. As with the permanent shim in the Berkeley Shave Selector, it puts tension on the head and allows for more secure adjustment.
 
Another fine shave today from the Shave Selector. I noted that the original handle (which mine is missing) has a small arrow embossed on the end of the threaded neck to allow for the alignment of a selected "setting". I actually have a matching handle that came on an old Cooper solid bar head, but oddly enough it doesn't fit the threads of my Shave Selector. So, I improvised and put a small mark with a permanent marker on my handle at the zero point.

For today's shave, I started with it opened about 1/4 turn, and left it there through my customary WTG and ATG passes, then opened it another approximately 1/4 turn to touch up some of my trouble spots. Once again, excellent results.

I'm convinced that some enterprising vendor needs to develop and commission the production of a razor of this design for the current new razor market. The adjustment mechanism is so simple, with no moving parts, and yet effective, it seems like it would be easily produced. I think it could be a big seller at a price point well below that of the few current production adjustables. Heck, this thing is so simple that it could even be sold below the current prices of vintage Gillette adjustables, and it works at least as well. I know "big seller" is a relative term when it comes to the DE razor market, but we have some seemingly committed players on the current scene. Parker, or Maggard's, are you listening?
 
Last edited:
...you have to wonder why it took nearly 20 more years for Gillette to come up with an adjustable DE.

Could it have been because Gillette maintained that their 3 pieces were "aggressiveness adjustable" by how tight/loose you screwed the handle? Maybe they thought it was unnecessary?

No idea. Just thinking out loud.
 
Could it have been because Gillette maintained that their 3 pieces were "aggressiveness adjustable" by how tight/loose you screwed the handle? Maybe they thought it was unnecessary?

No idea. Just thinking out loud.
That could be, but IMHO the loosened Gillette three piece isn't really a legitimate adjustable razor. The range is narrow, at best, and the loosened handle tends to be unstable if you're not really careful. Plus by the late 40s, Gillette had most all of their eggs firmly in the TTO basket (the Tech being the lone exception). I think that with their preeminent brand and powerful marketing, Gillette so dominated the market that they didn't really need to innovate. They were pretty much selling all the razors they could make; they didn't need to "improve" anything. I'm sure that the Shave Selector, despite its excellent and creative design, probably didn't even register with the people who ran the Gillette juggernaut. My theory (and it's only that) is that Gillette only got around to producing an adjustable design when they decided it was needed in order to increase sales.
 
Top Bottom