Am I missing something here?

[BigJ]

Great advice above!

My thoughts:
1. Minimal pressure (I think NO pressure!)
2. Razor angle should be optimal.
3. Map your beard.
4. Minimize variables. Stick with your favorite set up for awhile. Then change one thing at a time.

 

[Ed Gcom]

Nothing to add to the above recommendations. Just "Good Luck"!!

 

[South Dakota Guy]

I know that you have used a lot of different razors but if you don't mind I would like to recommend a razor that I have been using for over a week and I am getting consistent close and comfortable shaves with it. It is called a Henson AL13 razor. like you I was hit and miss. I mostly used a Rockwell 6S and somedays I would get that BBS shave and my face would feel mostly good and sometimes it would hurt. This razor has a flat face that makes finding the correct angle easy, removing one of the biggest variables in shaving. I am going to post some info from the manufacturer's website. Forum Sponsor West Coast Shaving carries this razor for about $50.

The actual blade gaps are .85mm for the medium aggression and .68mm for the mild (previously named Women's razor)

Here is a WCS YouTube video review of the Henson Razor

WCS Henson Razor

 

[SgtCrppls]

I asked West Coast Shaving which Preshave was good for sensitive skin and they recommended Proraso White. Since I’ve been using it, my irritation is non existent. Before DE shaving I would get irritation with a cartridge.

That is what I use also

 

[JoWolf]

Hello everyone,

I’m hoping someone can give me some advice. I seem to get irritation and razor burn almost all the time. I’ve used vintage Gillettes, Timeless, charcoal, Karve, Muhle, Merkur, and probably more I haven’t thought of, and two dozen blade varieties. Every time, my razor will glance over my stubble on pass 2 or 3. The best shave I can hope to get without irritation will leave me looking like I have 12-14 hours growth. And we all know what happens if you apply too much pressure. BBS almost never happens and DFS happens occasionally. Blade buffing doesn’t seam to help anything and usually ends in worse irritation. And there’s no way it’s the soap because I’ve used dozens of soaps and the lather always peaks and has the right amount of water. I’ve humored the idea that maybe I aught to hang it up and accept defeat but after 5 years I enjoy it too much even when my face ends up red as a tomato . Can anyone offer advice or constructive criticism?

Welcome to the Forum Benjamin. You have used some excellent razors all of which shave BBS. There are three parts to a shave. Pre Shave - Shave - Post Shave. You must consider that some of your problems may occur in all three areas. If so pre shave and post shave are the easiest to correct. The shave itself is Technique. Five years in you should have a favourite kit. Lock it in. All good BBS shaves are based on the dogma of the basic shave. Benjamin do you shave with a locked wrist? Please watch this video.

If you have large mistakes in your shave you need to correct them.

My routine consistent BBS face and head shaves are based on these principles. My formula. Use the sharpest blade possible in a razor that provides strong blade rigidity. Keep the sharp razor off your skin at all costs. There are good examples in my journal by contributing members that helped me achieve this.

GC.68OC, GOLD GRANDE, YAQI CHROME MELLON - A JOURNEY

The last time I checked the price of Mach 3 blades at Walmart here in London, they were $3.25 per cartridge lol. I'm good with 1/10th that cost for a far better shave even at one shave per blade. Exactly Mike. Ten shaves on that Mach three was a nightmare. Even the first nothing to brag about...

www.badgerandblade.com

 

[JoWolf]

Never going to happen. It’s DE or die. I will get it dialed in. The burn is a nuisance but after half an hour my face looks and feels normal. Small price to pay when you found your zen.


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Never say never. Once I perfected my DE Shave, no challenges. I have started to learn SR straight razors. I’m cutting myself more than on my DE journey of which there were no cuts. The most important part of a SR shave to me is the most important part to any shave using a blade. Blade Awareness. Where is that blade and what is it doing? If you do not know this with every second of blade use. There could be problems. It does not matter what blade you are using. Same rules. In my limited shave experience Blade Awareness is Technique. Using the sharpest blade possible and keeping it off your skin as much as possible is the path to success. If the blade does not touch your skin, impossible for irritation or a cut from that blade.

For example in the problem areas of your shave. Where was the blade? What was it doing? Were you using short strokes with a locked wrist? (the safest most successful stroke. All blades.)

Let’s think of a cart razor with a flexible moving head being held by a flexible moving wrist. Using long strokes over an uneven surface. An awful lot of moving parts. An awful lot of uneven terrain. The more moving parts running anything. The harder it is to achieve exact consistency. Locked wrist short strokes eliminates a lot of moving parts. Long uneven undulating, strokes can cause pressure variations, uneven cutting and skin irritation to your skin. (You described this in your shave).

“Every time, my razor will glance over my stubble on pass 2 or 3. The best shave I can hope to get without irritation will leave me looking like I have 12-14 hours growth. And we all know what happens if you apply too much pressure.”

Dial in your De shave and than explore other blades. It’s a lot of fun. Good luck and happy shaves.

 

[Benjamin Moran]

Perhaps using cool-to-cold water for your shave could help prevent or mitigate your irritation?

Remember, too, to let your soap or cream soak into your bristles for 2-3 minutes before you apply the razor. Gillette themselves used to counsel this in the minimal instructions for their razors, while of course suggesting their own brand of shaving cream. It absolutely does work. If the soap or cream gets a little dry during that 3 minutes, just rinse it off and re-apply before wielding the razor.

If you've tried these things, then perhaps it is angle or lack of necessary pressure. The others here will know more than I will.

It was the water... Seriously, I did a shave today and that’s all I did, I stopped using hot water... No irritation, for the first time in years no irritation anywhere. I think I’ll do it a few more times and then switch back and forth to see if I’m getting the same results.


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[Benzadmiral]

Ben, I'm glad to hear it! I understand that some of us may live in climates with cold weather (I don't, and wish I did), and cold tap water could be far too much to take sometimes. But even lukewarm water can be better than hot, if the latter gives you irritation.

 

[Wayne0710]

One thing I see missing from your post is any mention of grain. After 5 years I would have assumed that you’ve mapped your beard. If so, what direction are your passes going? If any are ATG, I would eliminate that pass and see if the irritation improves. That’s not a solution, just a jumping off point.

I agree. I’m in the camp that shaving WTG (or as close as possible) on the first pass can make or break a shave. Where are you mainly getting irritation? If it’s your lower neck, I bet that you may be shaving ATG on the first pass and not realize it. Many guys, including myself, have upward growing hair at the base of the neck. I recommend you grain map and shave accordingly.

 

[blstrge]

Hello everyone,

I’m hoping someone can give me some advice. I seem to get irritation and razor burn almost all the time. I’ve used vintage Gillettes, Timeless, charcoal, Karve, Muhle, Merkur, and probably more I haven’t thought of, and two dozen blade varieties. Every time, my razor will glance over my stubble on pass 2 or 3. The best shave I can hope to get without irritation will leave me looking like I have 12-14 hours growth. And we all know what happens if you apply too much pressure. BBS almost never happens and DFS happens occasionally. Blade buffing doesn’t seam to help anything and usually ends in worse irritation. And there’s no way it’s the soap because I’ve used dozens of soaps and the lather always peaks and has the right amount of water. I’ve humored the idea that maybe I aught to hang it up and accept defeat but after 5 years I enjoy it too much even when my face ends up red as a tomato . Can anyone offer advice or constructive criticism?

I used to always get irritation with the merkur 34c, and that's one razor that a lot of people start with. I would say get an adjustable if you don't have one.

Also maybe go easy on the third pass. If you care to watch Paul h films on YouTube, he has a method for his mustache area so it doesn't get irritated. I always had irritation before I started doing the same as he. I hope this helps and I get little to no irritation for the most part.

Some people also add to irritation if they use alum blocks. I don't get irritation when I use alum but I hear some people do.

 

[ShaverNoob]

Hello everyone,

I’m hoping someone can give me some advice. I seem to get irritation and razor burn almost all the time. I’ve used vintage Gillettes, Timeless, charcoal, Karve, Muhle, Merkur, and probably more I haven’t thought of, and two dozen blade varieties. Every time, my razor will glance over my stubble on pass 2 or 3. The best shave I can hope to get without irritation will leave me looking like I have 12-14 hours growth. And we all know what happens if you apply too much pressure. BBS almost never happens and DFS happens occasionally. Blade buffing doesn’t seam to help anything and usually ends in worse irritation. And there’s no way it’s the soap because I’ve used dozens of soaps and the lather always peaks and has the right amount of water. I’ve humored the idea that maybe I aught to hang it up and accept defeat but after 5 years I enjoy it too much even when my face ends up red as a tomato . Can anyone offer advice or constructive criticism?

I'm a noob too, but I can say about blade buffing....I only do that on the toughest part of my beard, the sides of the chin kinda under the corners of the lip. A part that has stubble that doesn't seem to go away with regular strokes. Never have I tried it to get those stubborn hairs on the neck that are hard to get. That would be a disaster.

I think discipline is the key to learning. Don't just map your face but micromap, so you can take as few strokes as possible. And this takes time. And if you feel something burning after the first pass, then stop. There will be that much more to shave next time.

Another tip would be to get an adjustable....you'll learn a lot about what works for you from experimenting with that. DRASTIC difference once you find your aggressiveness. For instance, on my Merkur Progress a 2.5 is not aggressive enough, but just pushing it up to 3 changes everything. And a 4 on first pass if long growth.

 

[uniqueusername]

Have you tried something other than a lathering soap? Something like Cremo?