What's new

AlumaGrips, .300BO to range

Ad Astra

The Instigator
Some new shooting stuff (and everyone likes pix):

1. Had the opportunity last month to acquire a Beretta 92FS at very good terms.

Liked it, but it was *so* M9. AlumaGrips are well-liked, and make it a tad bit thinner. Considered the way-cool gray-green ones at $76, but heard the checkering is pretty aggressive. Ultimately got smooth plain ones for about half, and like them a lot.

full


Seen on an-off trail hike this Sat.

full


What better place to study this book, then?

2. Finally got to shoot the PSA-made .300 upper for the M&P. Had installed Magpul BUIS; wanted to get those sighted before preceding to a real optic.

full


I do not love the local indoor range - just too many people - , but it's an all-day affair to go 3x the distance to the outdoor range.

full


Had to screw the front sight all the way down to get POI near POA.

Liking .300 BO; first time I've shot the caliber. Some punch for the AR; rounds were (remanufactured) 147-grain from Mid-America. Zero malfs with different mags.

Barrel break-in: wiser shooters, question. New upper, new barrel. Fired it slow, didn't allow it to get (very) hot. An AR isn't a $$$ bolt gun to be coddled, but it WAS a brand-new barrel. Tried not to overdo it. Does an AR barrel need to be "broken in"? in the old-school sense.

Happy Monday; hope you guys got to hike or shoot.


AA
 
Sounds like a lot of fun on the range. I enjoyed shooting the M-4s and M-16s, but don't get to shoot them anymore. Enjoy your new tools.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 

OkieStubble

Dirty Donuts are so Good.
So; any thoughts on whether a break-in period is necessary with AR barrels?

AA

All barrels break in eventually, if shot enough. However, there is a right way of breaking one in and a wrong way of breaking one in. All "breaking in" a rifle means is, that one is just simply trying to keep copper fouling, from sticking to a new barrel’s rifling, while the new rifling, which most likely can have machining burrs, gets smoothed out. This process is done, by putting rounds down range and cleaning between every few rounds or so.

There are as many debates on this even being a necessity as there is on how to actually, go thru the process of breaking in the rifling. I have heard one should clean the barrel after every single round and I have heard after every 10 rounds for anywhere between 20-50 rounds or so. It is very difficult if not impossible to find an expert consensus on not only if it's necessary, but also the exact process in getting there.

In my experience and also by researching the pro's and cons, I think it is necessary IF you want to keep or gain "precision accuracy" But I also think it is a huge inconvenience of effort and time and not necessary, for "practical accuracy."

In other words, I did take the time to break in my Remington 700 Police in .308 when it was brand new. But I did not make the effort or take the time to do it with my 3 AR's, Colt LE6920, Rock River LAR-15 and LWRC M6 PSD.

My Remington .308 is set up for and intended for precision or tactical accuracy. My AR's are only set up for practical or combat accuracy.
 
Last edited:

Ad Astra

The Instigator
@OkieStubble , with all the conflicting views out there, that is some info I understand!

I do have some special copper cleaner; going to apply it. This rifle is no 1,000-yarder; just the opposite.

ARs just get so hot so fast, it was going through my mind if harm was occurring. Thanks.

Love the .300 BO. I thought it would be something like .30 Carbine; but it's not.

AA
 

Ad Astra

The Instigator
Great report Mike, you have some cool tools there!

Tx, Lane. The Beretta isn't the latest/greatest, but it's proven and has served us well.

With BUIS finally zeroed, ordered a Vortex optic today, so. Continued happiness with PSA products.


AA
 
Top Bottom