alum feedback

[mr-future]

Long time lurker first time poster. After a month of DE shaving, I can do a WTG pass with zero stinging from the alum block. An XTG pass results in moderate stinging, and an ATG pass results in a hive of bees stinging my face. I have decided to master the XTG before messing around with ATG. Here's my question:

I've read that alum stinging is a sign of a poor shave. Does anyone out there get BBS shaves with zero alum sting? Is it OK to have mild stinging?

 

[ScottChapin]

It hardly ever stings at all now, even after a straight razor shave. We all are too aggressive at first. Concentrate on a better blade angle and less pressure.


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[John Rose]

Is it OK to have mild stinging?

Yes.
I even sort of look forward to it.

• Do you also use an alcohol splash aftershave, and does it sting excessively too?
  
• What make & model razor, and what blade are you using?
• Which soap? I've noted more stinging from some soaps and creams, if they have a lime component in the scent, and that's before the lukewarm water rinse and alum block.
  
• FWIW I get less stinging after the blade has been used at least 5-10 times.

 

[VerbaVolant]

..Does anyone out there get BBS shaves with zero alum sting?...

I do get a close to BBS (my lower neck has some areas with almost BBS) in two passes, shaving ATG from the first pass. It would be impossible for me to do the neck in any other way since my stubble grows in swirls. So I just go north to south on the lower neck, then south to north on upper neck. I can say that I rarely get stinging from alum.
When I try a new product and mess the lather I normally know, even before alum, that is going to sting. After I dial in the proper lather, it is all just a tingle in places, not even.

... Is it OK to have mild stinging?

Not sure what you would consider mild stinging, but I would still call it unacceptable.
Some blades are more difficult than others. I do get more tingle when I use Feathers and Gillette yellows and almost never when I use milder blades like Gillette Greens, Astra SP, Personnas, Derby...

 

[mr-future]

• Do you also use an alcohol splash aftershave, and does it sting excessively too?
  
• What make & model razor, and what blade are you using?
• Which soap? I've noted more stinging from some soaps and creams, if they have a lime component in the scent, and that's before the lukewarm water rinse and alum block.
  
• FWIW I get less stinging after the blade has been used at least 5-10 times.

- I use lotion after the shave.
- EJ DE89. I've been using Astra SP and GSB.
- I've used Proraso Red as well as Speick shave stick.

 

[mr-future]

When I try a new product and mess the lather I normally know, even before alum, that is going to sting. After I dial in the proper lather, it is all just a tingle in places, not even.

Not sure what you would consider mild stinging, but I would still call it unacceptable.
Some blades are more difficult than others. I do get more tingle when I use Feathers and Gillette yellows and almost never when I use milder blades like Gillette Greens, Astra SP, Personnas, Derby...

I think lather might be a factor here. I was using Proraso soap in a tube with junk nylon brush, and the lather I was making did not look anything like the youtube videos. Just today I tried Speick shave stick with a Razorock 24 mm, with noticeably less stinging than usual. Thanks for the tip about blades. I will continue to experiment with them.

 

[VerbaVolant]

I think lather might be a factor here...

In my opinion, lather is always a factor.

 

[AshleyC]

Today was at least my 6th shave in a row using cold water as prep. If I shower first, I do several cold rinses before shaving.

Re-lathering is done with cold water for each pass. The final rinse is several applications of cold water until all the residue of soap or cream is gone.

Six shaves, all three pass, no irritation. Razors were Merkur Progress and 34G, and one time with a 1971 Lady Gillette. I got 2 weepers with the Lady Gillette as it was so mild I overcompensated with pressure.

I also use an alum block post shave followed by a splash after 5 minutes or so. I leave the alum residue on, as it is an effective anti-bacterial substance.

I am completely sold on the validity of cold water shaving. Hot water expands your skin and opens your pores. THEN you proceed to rinse your razor under very hot water and then drag that hot, sharp blade against your skin. Sounds like a recipe for irritation to me!

 

[John Rose]

Hot water [...snip...] opens your pores.

Dermatologists beg to differ. Pores do not open or close.

 

[VerbaVolant]

- EJ DE89. I've been using Astra SP ...

I too use a DE89 almost exclusively, and ASTRA SP is my favorite blade.

 

[VerbaVolant]

Dermatologists beg to differ. Pores do not open or close.

+1

 

[AshleyC]

Dermatologists beg to differ. Pores do not open or close.

Well, when my skin is hot my sweat glands definitly open up.

 

[ScottChapin]

Well, when my skin is hot my sweat glands definitly open up.

I think this is getting down to semantics. Holes bored in solid steel open up when the block is heated up. Most dermatologist mention that there is no muscle action to open and close. That is probably true. That your skin doesn’t swell when hot and moist and that the holes don’t get larger in diameter is hard to accept.


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[RTM]

- EJ DE89. I've been using Astra SP and GSB.

Also use EJ89 but with Feathers if shaving every other day, sometimes Personna. Derby if shaving everyday.
Once you've caught the angle you're on.

 

[Clay S]

I think this is getting down to semantics. Holes bored in solid steel open up when the block is heated up. Most dermatologist mention that there is no muscle action to open and close. That is probably true. That your skin doesn’t swell when hot and moist and that the holes don’t get larger in diameter is hard to accept.


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There are muscles, or some type of action that causes hairs to stand up when cold though. Very noticeable on some people, called goose bumps. Relaxing those effects might have affects on pores, but yes, there are no sphincter muscles on individual pores or follicles.

 

[ScottChapin]

There are muscles, or some type of action that causes hairs to stand up when cold though. Very noticeable on some people, called goose bumps. Relaxing those effects might have affects on pores, but yes, there are no sphincter muscles on individual pores or follicles.

+1


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[Danmarx]

I can do a WTG pass with zero stinging from the alum block. An XTG pass results in moderate stinging, and an ATG pass results in a hive of bees stinging my face. I have decided to master the XTG before messing around with ATG.

Your experience is absolutely normal. I use an alum block and it is a good indicator of razor burn.

When I started shaving some 50 years ago we were taught not to shave against the grain. During those intervening years DE, SE, and straight razor shaving went out of fashion with electric razors and cartridge razors.
"Wet shaving" has made a comeback and somehow the 'BSS' shave became the holy grail for some and shaving ATG became a method for achieving it. I think it is a bad idea, but if it works for some, then have at it. Everyone's skin and beard is different, but shaving too close and ATG is asking for trouble with razor burns and ingrown hairs. I have a fairly light beard and don't shave my chin or upper lip, so I am admittedly not representative. This may help:

Razor Burn is inflammation of the skin that could classify as Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ICD) and includes any nicks, scratches and irritation associated with shaving. Razor burn can occur from:

• A reaction from certain substances or ingredients
• Shaving too closely and/or too quickly
• Inadequate lubrication during shaving
• Shaving against the grain of the hair (against the direction of the hair growth)
• Shaving over already irritated or sensitized areas
• Applying too much pressure during shaving (which only facilitates the removal of skin cells, resulting in excess friction and irritation)
• Shaving with a blunt blade (a sharp blade will require less pressure)
• Water Articles