Almost Back!

[JoeScho]

After a 5 year break,I'm almost back in the full swing. You know you got a good shave when you rinse and feel no stubble or places you missed. I convinced myself into buying 2 new straights!! I opted for a Thiers Issard 5/8 with composite scales and I just couldnt resist a 6/8 Sparticus. I also bought myself a Parker Silvertip and a Simpsons synthetic.

I'm on about my 5th or 6th shave since I'm back, and almost have all of my techniques back. At about a nick per shave. I'm still getting slight razor burn and i think i maybe pressing too hard (inexperienced still) . Anyway, the Sparticus will arrive untouched, and i was wondering if anyone knew how the edges arrive and how much work they might need. Do I assume they have a bevel and go 8k? Or go straight to 12k? Or do I go 1k and try to set a bevel?

I'm pretty green when it comes to honing but I recently had some success with a Dovo Damaint which i took from blunt to shave ready. I'm hoping this new razor may need 20-30 light passes on 12k then strop.

My other question is if I tape the spine, I assume Ill kill the bevel as I'm sure they don't hone them this way at factory. If this is the case, I may just lightly hone and when it starts to dull Ill tape it and set a new bevel.

As an aside, I forgot how nice the warm lather, all the nice scented soaps, and aftershaves were. I newly discovered pre shave oil that is even better if you stick the bottle in the hot water along with your brush while you shower. Guys that don't wet shave have no idea what they're missing.

thanks for reading.
Joe

 

[*stefan*]

Congrat to successful resumption with straight razor shaving and honing!

You will not kill the edge if you add tape in the honing.
If honed before without tape and you now add tape another steeper bevel to the apex will be added.

I would shave first. If shaving is like an 8k edge then go to 12k before the next shave.
Otherwise 8k and then 12k.
If still not good, some honing on lower grit.

But if you feel like doing some 12k strokes before first shave no harm I guess.

 

[Frank Shaves]

Welcome back!

I own two new TI razors: one shave-ready from The Invisible Edge and a second factory-sealed from a large knife retailer. The edges on both razors are straight and narrow.

I have finished factory-sealed razor many times using one layer of 1 mil Kapton tape with zero problems - shaves very nicely.

BTW, 1 mil means one thousandth of an inch or 0.001 inch. Adds about 0.5 inch to the bevel angle.

This tape:

 

[JoeScho]

Thanks gents! I appreciate the help!!!

 

[JPO]

You need to figure out how good the geometry of your bevel is. The bevel is the whole plane from the top of the spine wear to the cutting edge.
Mark the edge/lower bevel with a sharpy. Do a couple of strokes on your 8k or 12k. If the ink is gone, your geometry is probably OK.
You can then start with your 8k or 12k.
If there is any geometry problems you will probably need to go lower down in grit and establish a good foundation.
If you use tape you will just create a micro bevel. No harm in that if you plan on using tape when you maintain the razor.

 

[JoeScho]

You need to figure out how good the geometry of your bevel is. The bevel is the whole plane from the top of the spine wear to the cutting edge.
Mark the edge/lower bevel with a sharpy. Do a couple of strokes on your 8k or 12k. If the ink is gone, your geometry is probably OK.
You can then start with your 8k or 12k.
If there is any geometry problems you will probably need to go lower down in grit and establish a good foundation.
If you use tape you will just create a micro bevel. No harm in that if you plan on using tape when you maintain the razor.

I may come back and see you soon about all of this. I got 5 straights for 40 bucks the other day for purposes of restoration and clean up. For less than 10 bucks a razor, if I get one restored and all polished up and sharp ill be happy.