Aggressive, Blade Gap?

[Post_Shave]

My question is...
Why do I need a more aggressive razor? What would I gain by using, for example, a GC .84 versus my GC .64? I love my GC .64! I’m not against a more aggressive razor, just don’t know why I need one? What am I missing? Should I crank up my Parker Variant to 11 and load up a Feather blade?
Are you guys using your death defying R41 because you have a thick beard? Is it a macho thing, like driving a dually or going “commando” every day? Because you can skip a day of shaving?
Do you use a nuclear razor every day?
Should I be looking into sex change surgery because I identify as a mild razor shaver?

Almost all my razors are “mild”.
C plate on my Karve CB, but I just got it today...
.64 Razorock GC.
Razorock Lupo in the mail...
Flare tip blue.
Merkur 1904.
#3 setting on my Variant.
Gold Ambassador.
PAA DOC
Occams Razor SB head
and others...
I use Astra, Lab Blue and occasionally Shark and Rapira blades. I can get a BBS almost every time. 3 passes and some touch up around and under my chin. 85% of the time, I have virtually no irritation.

 

[DEPenguin]

Great question, and one I had to learn through experience. My daily driver is a Merkur 38C, generally regarded as a mid-mild kind of razor. I have a Col Conk Major which has a visibly wider blade gap and I have to be much more gentle and careful with it or it leaves damage in its wake.

I have found that by pairing a milder blade in the more aggressive razor I can get a pretty close shave without all the potential for irritation, etc. Likewise, placing a much sharper blade (like a Feather) in a fairly mild razor like the Merkur can give a very similar shave, at least in my experience. I haven't had the gonads to put a Feather in the more aggressive razor yet.

 

[hydro-magic]

I'm not a big fan of aggressive razors either. I can get a decent shave with one most of the time but a milder razor and sharp blade give me great results every time. My Parker Variant never gets turned up past 3. I still get BBS shaves with no irritation. I have one of the first gen PAA DOC's and it's too mild for me. The shaves are comfortable but not close. So there's a window where I like my razors but I guess I tend to be happier with razors that most people find a bit on the mild side.

 

[EclipseRedRing]

A lot of shavers start mild and then get more aggressive razors, before returning to milder razors but with a sharp blade. In my view these require better technique and also improve and maintain that technique. With good technique a mild razor can shave any beard, and as someone else said, it is more fun to drive a slow car fast, than a fast car slow. I suspect there is a lot of macho nonsense involved in it. Personally, I like to use a variety of razors, including vintage DE mild to mid aggression razors, a single SE razor, a Feather Artist Club DX (the most aggressive and unforgiving razor I have ever used), and a Derby Aiku Japanese straight. The challenge for me is to get the best shave possible using a variety of different equipment and techniques.

 

[Flintstone65]

Well I'm going to jump in here and say -- as someone who has typically leaned towards "aggressive" razors, and has swung back a bit towards "mild" ones -- the answer is "Yes". Okay, that's not a real answer. Here are few things that may help a bit....admittedly I'm re-framing your question a little:

1. I've certainly used the term "aggressive" a lot in the past, but the term packs a lot inside it. For example, efficiency. Many people refer to an aggressive razor as an efficient razor: more hair/stubble is removed with/in fewer passes of the razor. Others are referring to blade-feel. An aggressive razor lets/makes you feel more of the blade on your skin during the pass. And lastly, there is biting....generally, the razor may nip you if your careless or your technique is not top-notch. So what is aggression to you....efficiency, blade-feel, aggression/biting -- all of the above? To me, it is mainly about efficiency, along with comfort (blade feel) and how technique-driven it is (bites first, asks questions later).
   
   
2. The mild term carries the same baggage in reverse: inefficient (can't seem to get as close of a shave or takes more passes to get there, comfort (little to no blade feel), virtually harmless (won't bite, even if provoked). I've laid out extreme positions there, but you get the picture. I'm curious, what does "mild" mean to you? For me, it's aggression in reverse.....mostly about efficiency with comfort and tendency towards pacifism.

So I tend to like older stuff (my Double Ring, Single Rings, and Old Types), which tend towards the "aggressive" scale; but I also really love my US and British News (which to me are very nicely balanced in the mild-to-wild scale) and the Techs (which are pretty squarely in the mild area....for me, at least). But lets talk moderns. I REALLY like my GC .84 and my Mamba .70; which I would describe as balanced with a tip towards the mild side. Then there is my Wunderbar slant (which I haven't tamed completely, but I still love the shave I can get when my game is "on"), I would describe it as more towards the aggressive end of the spectrum.

Here's the thing, I think (so it's a big ol' IMO/IME) that as technique develops, the extremes of mild and aggressive start to become less stark. When I started, I wouldn't dream of shaving every day with my Single Ring....now I can and do. Also, I used to think I couldn't get a BBS with a Tech....now I can easily. I personally would still rather wrestle an "aggressive" razor into a daily-balanced shaver with my technique than do the same in reverse with a mild razor. Why? Because my veins are teeming with testosterone!!! No, that's not the reason at all.....and I can hear my wife rolling on the floor laughing at that statement. No, it's because I really enjoy using old stuff (axes, chisels, saws and razors), and those older razors tend to require a lighter touch, more concentration -- they tend towards the aggressive scale. I'm always very proud when I can "tame" an aggressive razor and turn it into easy-shaver.

Now all that said, I've been enjoying the more balanced (British RFBs -- man, they are nice), and Pre-War Techs, and my GC .84P (SB version, not OC). For me, those are easy shavers right out of the box. I tried the R41....I'm not a fan. Some love it, and I've been trying....but it seems like a lot of work for a razor that doesn't historically speak to me, so I'm going to let that one go and move on to something else.

Oh and lastly, YMMV!!! Got to put that in there. Seriously, you may want to try an "Aggressive" razor. I wouldn't recommend the R41, I would try the .84P and see if it makes a big difference. Or you can also just decide without trying them that you have absolutely found the right balance for you, and knowing that is an awesome thing!

 

[StratMan]

I am only a fan of efficient razors, and like both blade feel and no blade feel. If you are happy with the results and smoothness of the milder razors then just stick to it, you dont need to change.

A more efficient razor is needed for those that have a lot of tough hair growing on their face, simply a mild razor doesnt give a close shave with minimal passes. I can get a great shave with a mild razor say DE89 but it wont be BBS after 3 passes. If i have to do more passes to get a better shave then it leads to irritation.

this is why i like aggressive/efficient razors. the only trick to these is to pair it with the right blade for your skin/razor AND learning the art of zero pressure to allow the razor to do the work.

my efficient razors include GC JAWS, Timeless 0.95 and R41

In saying this i still enjoy shaving with milder razors occasionally like the 73 Gillette super speed and 69 Gillette Slim

 

[never-stop-learning]

My question is...
Why do I need a more aggressive razor? What would I gain by using, for example, a GC .84 versus my GC .64? I love my GC .64! I’m not against a more aggressive razor, just don’t know why I need one? What am I missing? Should I crank up my Parker Variant to 11 and load up a Feather blade?
Are you guys using your death defying R41 because you have a thick beard? Is it a macho thing, like driving a dually or going “commando” every day? Because you can skip a day of shaving?
Do you use a nuclear razor every day?
Should I be looking into sex change surgery because I identify as a mild razor shaver?

Almost all my razors are “mild”.
C plate on my Karve CB, but I just got it today...
.64 Razorock GC.
Razorock Lupo in the mail...
Flare tip blue.
Merkur 1904.
#3 setting on my Variant.
Gold Ambassador.
PAA DOC
Occams Razor SB head
and others...
I use Astra, Lab Blue and occasionally Shark and Rapira blades. I can get a BBS almost every time. 3 passes and some touch up around and under my chin. 85% of the time, I have virtually no irritation.
View attachment 1060374

I generally like razors with rigid blade support.

Three incredible combinations: 1930s - 1950s Gillette Tech or Personna "BBS-0" with a Kai blade or FaTip MK2 with a Bolzano.

YMMV

 

[Post_Shave]

Well I'm going to jump in here and say -- as someone who has typically leaned towards "aggressive" razors, and has swung back a bit towards "mild" ones -- the answer is "Yes". Okay, that's not a real answer. Here are few things that may help a bit....admittedly I'm re-framing your question a little:

1. I've certainly used the term "aggressive" a lot in the past, but the term packs a lot inside it. For example, efficiency. Many people refer to an aggressive razor as an efficient razor: more hair/stubble is removed with/in fewer passes of the razor. Others are referring to blade-feel. An aggressive razor lets/makes you feel more of the blade on your skin during the pass. And lastly, there is biting....generally, the razor may nip you if your careless or your technique is not top-notch. So what is aggression to you....efficiency, blade-feel, aggression/biting -- all of the above? To me, it is mainly about efficiency, along with comfort (blade feel) and how technique-driven it is (bites first, asks questions later).
   
   
2. The mild term carries the same baggage in reverse: inefficient (can't seem to get as close of a shave or takes more passes to get there, comfort (little to no blade feel), virtually harmless (won't bite, even if provoked). I've laid out extreme positions there, but you get the picture. I'm curious, what does "mild" mean to you? For me, it's aggression in reverse.....mostly about efficiency with comfort and tendency towards pacifism.

So I tend to like older stuff (my Double Ring, Single Rings, and Old Types), which tend towards the "aggressive" scale; but I also really love my US and British News (which to me are very nicely balanced in the mild-to-wild scale) and the Techs (which are pretty squarely in the mild area....for me, at least). But lets talk moderns. I REALLY like my GC .84 and my Mamba .70; which I would describe as balanced with a tip towards the mild side. Then there is my Wunderbar slant (which I haven't tamed completely, but I still love the shave I can get when my game is "on"), I would describe it as more towards the aggressive end of the spectrum.

Here's the thing, I think (so it's a big ol' IMO/IME) that as technique develops, the extremes of mild and aggressive start to become less stark. When I started, I wouldn't dream of shaving every day with my Single Ring....now I can and do. Also, I used to think I couldn't get a BBS with a Tech....now I can easily. I personally would still rather wrestle an "aggressive" razor into a daily-balanced shaver with my technique than do the same in reverse with a mild razor. Why? Because my veins are teeming with testosterone!!! No, that's not the reason at all.....and I can hear my wife rolling on the floor laughing at that statement. No, it's because I really enjoy using old stuff (axes, chisels, saws and razors), and those older razors tend to require a lighter touch, more concentration -- they tend towards the aggressive scale. I'm always very proud when I can "tame" an aggressive razor and turn it into easy-shaver.

Now all that said, I've been enjoying the more balanced (British RFBs -- man, they are nice), and Pre-War Techs, and my GC .84P (SB version, not OC). For me, those are easy shavers right out of the box. I tried the R41....I'm not a fan. Some love it, and I've been trying....but it seems like a lot of work for a razor that doesn't historically speak to me, so I'm going to let that one go and move on to something else.

Oh and lastly, YMMV!!! Got to put that in there. Seriously, you may want to try an "Aggressive" razor. I wouldn't recommend the R41, I would try the .84P and see if it makes a big difference. Or you can also just decide without trying them that you have absolutely found the right balance for you, and knowing that is an awesome thing!

A truly excellent response! No wonder you’re B&B royalty!
As you say, aggressive and mild are relative terms. I would entirely agree with the efficiency idea. I seem to be compelled to shave ATG, even to the point that WTG sometimes seems pointless. Am I correct that turning up my Variant is not the same as using a razor that is purely intended for a more efficient shave.
So now I need a .84 GC and an F plate for my Karve! COOL! I’ll be all over that. I am not, however, going to try the Yaqi Knights Helmet razor. Wish I understood the 3 plates for my Occam’s razor...

 

[Flintstone65]

I generally like razors with rigid blade support.

Two incredible combinations: 1930s - 1950s Gillette Tech or Personna "BBS-0" with a Kai blade or FaTip MK2 with a Bolzano.

+1 on Rigidity!!! (And I need to get me some Bolzano's....keep hearing great things).

 

[never-stop-learning]

+1 on Rigidity!!! (And I need to get me some Bolzano's....keep hearing great things).

I like the Bolzano blades in the FaTip razors - especially the MK2.

Also the Gillette Old Type.

 

[Post_Shave]

I generally like razors with rigid blade support.

Three incredible combinations: 1930s - 1950s Gillette Tech or Personna "BBS-0" with a Kai blade or FaTip MK2 with a Bolzano.

YMMV

I did try a new Rapira Lux in my Fatip Gentile The first time I used it. It was like a stigmata for the face! Since then I think I’ve adapted the angle on the Fatip and I like it.

 

[Post_Shave]

+1 on Rigidity!!! (And I need to get me some Bolzano's....keep hearing great things).

What razors have more blade rigidity? Are you talking less blade chatter?

 

[Flintstone65]

A truly excellent response! No wonder you’re B&B royalty!
As you say, aggressive and mild are relative terms. I would entirely agree with the efficiency idea. I seem to be compelled to shave ATG, even to the point that WTG sometimes seems pointless. Am I correct that turning up my Variant is not the same as using a razor that is purely intended for a more efficient shave.
So now I need a .84 GC and an F plate for my Karve! COOL! I’ll be all over that. I am not, however, going to try the Yaqi Knights Helmet razor. Wish I understood the 3 plates for my Occam’s razor...

I'm steering well clear of the Yaqi Knights Helmet too!!! If you do pick up a .84 GC, please do let us know what you think. I'll admit that I haven't gotten a Karve (oh so tempted, and I suspect it will happen one day), and I don't know the Variant either....but I would think that cranking it up, would increase the blade gap and subsequently increase efficiency -- but now I'm just talking out of my ear, someone with experience with that razor will need to weigh in. Also can't hep with Occam's....gosh, what good am I?

 

[never-stop-learning]

What razors have more blade rigidity? Are you talking less blade chatter?

Yes. The more rigidly the blade is held in place, the less blade chatter.

 

[Flintstone65]

Yes. The more rigidly the blade is held in place, the less blade chatter.

+1 again! I'm just going shut up and let this gentleman take it....especially when it comes to razor recommendations and rigidity. I tend towards the SE side of the house when I'm looking for LOTS of rigidity....the blades are thicker and that helps, and things like Injectors have that blade clamped in within an inch of its life. My understanding (code for "I really don't know") is that well-made modern razors are usually pretty good at rigidity....for example, the GC and the Mamba, I feel like they hold the blade well and I never experience chatter. But others may have different views and certainly different recommendations.

 

[Post_Shave]

Yes. The more rigidly the blade is held in place, the less blade chatter.

So if I was looking for a more rigid razor, would a GC .84 work?
or would I be better off with a different plate for the Karve? Or a different suggestion?

 

[never-stop-learning]

So if I was looking for a more rigid razor, would a GC .84 work?
or would I be better off with a different plate for the Karve? Or a different suggestion?

Both the Karve C-SB and the RR GC .68 are permanent residents of my Den. I think very highly of both.

Both hold the blade well and are capable of superb, comfortable and extremely close results.

Before you get more razors, I would get to know the excellent razors you have.

Just my opinion and YMMV.

 

[Post_Shave]

Both the Karve C-SB and the RR GC .68 are permanent residents of my Den. I think very highly of both.

Both hold the blade well and are capable of superb, comfortable and extremely close results.

Before you get more razors, I would get to know the excellent razors you have.

Just my opinion and YMMV.

After I wrote that, in my typically over-curious way, I came to the same conclusion...Thank You for your excellent input, sir!

 

[Post_Shave]

I’m looking forward to my brand new brass Karve. I wish I could shave 2X per day...

 

[xiletero]

My question is...
Why do I need a more aggressive razor? What would I gain by using, for example, a GC .84 versus my GC .64? I love my GC .64! I’m not against a more aggressive razor, just don’t know why I need one? What am I missing? Should I crank up my Parker Variant to 11 and load up a Feather blade?
Are you guys using your death defying R41 because you have a thick beard? Is it a macho thing, like driving a dually or going “commando” every day? Because you can skip a day of shaving?
Do you use a nuclear razor every day?
Should I be looking into sex change surgery because I identify as a mild razor shaver?

Almost all my razors are “mild”.
C plate on my Karve CB, but I just got it today...
.64 Razorock GC.
Razorock Lupo in the mail...
Flare tip blue.
Merkur 1904.
#3 setting on my Variant.
Gold Ambassador.
PAA DOC
Occams Razor SB head
and others...
I use Astra, Lab Blue and occasionally Shark and Rapira blades. I can get a BBS almost every time. 3 passes and some touch up around and under my chin. 85% of the time, I have virtually no irritation.
View attachment 1060374

At some point you may want to try the Karve OC C.
BTW, the Lupo is a nice razor.... a bit light (if you got the Alu). Just be careful not to apply pressure. My first shave with it was not great....but then got used to it.
I favor russian Gillette blades, and prefer them with no coating (or no coating advertised).