Against the grain?

[uaTO]

After a couple months of with the grain shaves, I tried against the grain on my cheeks today. I don't think I'll be venturing into against the grain on my neck, as the area is too sensitive and I'm happy if I make it through a with the grain shave with no irritation.

My question basically has to do with the angle I should be holding the razor. During the shave, I found it almost impossible to attempt a 30 deg. angle going against the grain, and was actually almost perpendicular to the ground when going against. Is that normal? Or should I be attempting to have an angle closer to my with the grain shaves?

 

[Leisureguy]

Oh, wow. The razor against the grain should be at the same relative angle as with the grain: with the blade almost parallel to the skin it's shaving. That is, think of the blade as a scythe, cutting hay near the ground: you don't want it digging into the ground (your skin). So the razor's angle should bring the blade just into contact with the whiskers, but not at a sharp angle. This applies to with, across, and against the grain.

 

[rusirius]

I'm not quite sure I understand your question in regard to the angle...

When your going with the grain, say N-S.. The angle on the razor (handle) on the right side may look something like \ that. When your going Against the grain, it's just going to get flipped over, i.e it will look like / that... Your keeping the same 30 degree angle between the blade and your face, it's just your flipping it upside down since your going in the opposite direction...

As for getting a good against the grain shave with little to no irritation, I think a lot of it has to do with good prep...

Make SURE you've done lots of prep and that the whiskers are softened up a lot. If you can't rake the back of your hand across them without them feeling "sharp", then you don't want to try for an against the grain pass. They have to be softened up.

Make sure you've got a good lubricating lather whipped up. I also like to rub some glycerin or coral skin food in before lathering too, ESPECIALLY with ATG passes...

Last but not least make sure your previous passes have knocked the stubble down really well. By the time you get to the ATG pass there really shouldn't be much if any stubble left anyway.

 

[guenron]

Well Usman,
To ensure that there is no break down in communication, can I safely assume that you are first doing a WITH THE GRAIN pass? Assuming that you are first doing a WITH THE GRAIN pass, and that you are really ready technique-wise for going against the grain, let us review what is necessary. Obviously you must relatherin prep for your second pass, the AGAINST THE GRAIN PASS. By now you should be able to determine at what angle the razor starts shearing your whiskers with relative ease. That is the same key to a comfortable and effective AGAINST THE GRAIN PASS. However you habve learned to do this dynamically, whether by sound or feel, you must use a similar technique for the AGAINST THE GRAIN PASS.
Quite often when you are really comfortable doing this it is time to learn how to smoothly stretch the skin from behind the razor while shaving AGAINST THE GRAIN. It gives additional closeness and somewhat reduces the chance for a nick.
Best of Luck!

 

[uaTO]

Thanks for the replies guys.

The against the grain pass would be my third pass after one with the grain, and one across. I ended up with a few different razor angles during the against the grain pass, simply because I hadn't done it before, and was finding it an uncomfortable angle for my hands.

I do rinse/lather for each pass, so I don't think my prep work is lacking. Ron, I'll try stretching the skin next time, hopefully it will help.

 

[guenron]

Thanks for the replies guys.

The against the grain pass would be my third pass after one with the grain, and one across. I ended up with a few different razor angles during the against the grain pass, simply because I hadn't done it before, and was finding it an uncomfortable angle for my hands.

I do rinse/lather for each pass, so I don't think my prep work is lacking. Ron, I'll try stretching the skin next time, hopefully it will help.

Usman,
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