Aftershave ritual and Clogged pores

[kefijlm]

I am experimenting with my aftershave ritual. I have noticed if I slather on moisturizer right after shaving I pay for it. I get a red neck and more razor bumps. I have recently added alum to my aftershave habit. I think it is helping, less bumps and irritation. The only problem is I ofter have a little dry skin after a shave, getting better though. So I still need to use something to give a little moisture afterwards. So I am using alum followed by a little Proraso ASB but I think I still need a little more moisture. Any suggestions? Is there any magic to waiting a certain amount of time after the cold rinse, alum, cold rinse again? That has been my procedure. I do think that it makes a difference in what I am using afterwards as to how my neck reacts. I think that the moisturizers may be cloggin my pores in otherwords.

Regards,
Josh

 

[rschul2]

Hard to answer from the little information you provided. What moisturizer are you using? Is it oil free? What is your skin type----dry, normal, oily? There is no doubt that something is not right. My guess is that you are either using a soap that is too harsh on your skin (makes your skin more likely to produce oil to compensate) or are using an inappropriate moisturizer for your skin type. The alum block should help with the irritation and bumps, but as you said, it will dry you out a bit. Well give us some more info and hopefully we can help out.

 

[rikrdo]

warm rinse - to get all the shave product(soap / cream) off your face
cold rinse - to start the seal
alcohol based AS splash - for sealing and toning
witch hazel and aloe gel based ASB - for healing.
ASB (if needed) - for more heallng and moisturizing


thats how I do it, anywhoo.
Good luck to you.

 

[chop-chop]

Red neck and razor bumps are typically associated with technique. Careful attention to your beard grain/growth pattern, and using gradual reduction of stubble, often irons out this difficulty.

Also, when switching to wetshaving with a DE or a Straight, it is not uncommon to have an adjustment period during which your skin is acclimating to your new routine. Part of the reason for this is that we are doing some exfoliating with our brush... OR, we may have a sensitivity to the soap or cream that we are using.

Continued problems along these lines may indicate that your blade choice doesn't match your razor, or your beard-skin type. Or, you may simply need to change your blade more often.

So, your current problems may be the result of one, or all of the above. Patience, attention to detail, time, and experience is often the answer to most everything. Hang in there!

Tchau,
chop-chop

 

[DirtyDave]

Josh

I finish up this way:

Warm water rinse
Cold water rinse (or as less warm cold tap water gets here in Houston)
witch hazel applied with a cotton pad
ASB or Cornhuskers Lotion or Aloe Vera Gel with an aftershave lotion like Bay Rum. I really like the Cornhuskers.

I think the witch hazel really helps the skin. It is a gentle astringent and does a fine job of toning my skin as well as getting rid of any residue from the shave. I use Dickinson's but you may also want to try some Thayer's.

I tend towards oily skin and I don't have a problem with clogged pores with this routine.

 

[kefijlm]

Hey guys,

Sorry for not listing the products I use. I guess that would help. I currently am washing with Cetaphil. I have tried Pure Olive Oil soap, but seems to not make much difference. I shave with a DE, still trying different blades these days. My normal method is to shower, wash the face, use conditioner, rinse off with hot water, lather up with C&E sweet almond (seems to be less drying), let it a couple of minutes and go over with a brush again and then start shaving. 3 passes - WTG, WTG, XTG. Rinse with hot, rinse with cold, alum, cleanup, rinse with cold, Proraso ASB. I have been using Cetaphil Moisturizing lotion or KMF obsessively natural lotion. I think one of the problem areas is where the grain grows in a funky direction but it seems like its always either very late that night or the next morning before I see any bumps there.

Josh

 

[rschul2]

Hey guys,

Sorry for not listing the products I use. I guess that would help. I currently am washing with Cetaphil. I have tried Pure Olive Oil soap, but seems to not make much difference. I shave with a DE, still trying different blades these days. My normal method is to shower, wash the face, use conditioner, rinse off with hot water, lather up with C&E sweet almond (seems to be less drying), let it a couple of minutes and go over with a brush again and then start shaving. 3 passes - WTG, WTG, XTG. Rinse with hot, rinse with cold, alum, cleanup, rinse with cold, Proraso ASB. I have been using Cetaphil Moisturizing lotion or KMF obsessively natural lotion. I think one of the problem areas is where the grain grows in a funky direction but it seems like its always either very late that night or the next morning before I see any bumps there.

Josh

Well, I certainly don't think you are overdrying your face with cetaphil. So I think it is safe to say that we can rule that out. The razor burn and bumps ARE most likely due to your technique. Next weekend (or now) let your beard grow out and map out the direction your hair grows. Most people's beard tends to grow in weird directions at the bottom of the neck. Just because you think you are going XTG does not necessarily mean so.
I personally don't use a hot water rinse after a shave. I go straight to a cold rinse. I'm not sure if this will make a difference or not, but it may be worth a try. As far as the oiliness your getting...try not using a moisturizer for a day or two. It may turn out that you don't need a moisturizer. Maybe the Proraso is all you need. If it turns out that the Proraso is not enough, maybe you can try a lighter moisturizer. Pay attention to the changes you are making to your routine, be sure to notice when things become better, and always remember to only change 1 thing at a time. Hang in there, it will get better. It just may take some time while you are experimenting.

 

[jramire2]

Sounds like I have the same kind of skin as you and I quit using an alum block for a week or two....and paid for it w/more ingrowns, bumps, etc. So the alum block definitely helped me, but the addition of Thayers Witch hazel seemd to make it worse. Maybe I have WH issues I don't know, but the alum is a must for me.

This is what I use and how I use it. It's a long process, but my skin is thanking me for it. It doesn't take as much time as you'd think. And I didn't include my preshave ritual.

1shave
2warm rinse
3cold rinse
4alum block - wait 30 to 60 seconds (clean brush, dry razor, etc)
5cold rinse to remove alum
6pat dry face
7apply small amount bump fighter (generic Tend skin found at Walmart - burns a bit) - allow to dry
8wet palms and mix small amount of Proraso Pre/Post w/water, then apply to shaved area only
9wet palms and mix small amount of either Anthony Logistics balm or CAR Hydrolast Peppermint conditioner, then apply to ENTIRE face
10Let air dry

After that my skins moisture is near perfect and if I missed something and have a dry spot, I just dab a small amt of ASB directly on it. This doesn't happen very often though. And I've found that the addition of the alum block and the bump fighter have greatly reduced the amount of skin problems I get. And if you're getting bumps due to poor technique, the alum/bump fighter will help, but only proper technique will really help it.

Also, maybe I'm the only one here that had this happen, but I started w/an HD and got good results. Then lucked out and found a 40's SS locally. The SS seemed to work better for me, I think the HD was a bit too aggressive for my skin. I'm getting less ingrowns, red bumps and irritated skin after switching to the SS. Must be a milder razor or something.

You could probably do the last step w/Proraso liquid ASB if that's what you're using. But if you need more moisture, the pre/post actually provides a bit more. I like the Anthony b/c it leaves my skin w/a nice talc/soft finish and is overall my go to ASB. But the CAR stuff I think will provide a better long term improvement for my skin.

YMMV

~Joshua

 

[SilverKarn]

i reccomend Thayers Medicated Superhazel, its a bit drying on your face, but it takes all of the oil off. Its an aftershave in itself.

see the review in "aftershaves" for more info

 

[ScottS]

KMF obsessively natural lotion.

IIRC, that's pretty heavy stuff. Try something much lighter, or nothing at all if you can get away with it.

 

[kefijlm]

I think that something with alcohol might be drying. I do think some of the problems are due to technique and I am working on that. I really have too many things to vary. I know I should vary just one but I have built a collection of razors, blades and creams/soaps. I am trying to like derby blades but am not so far. I really actually like the dorco blades and the Euro Gillettes. Haven't ventured into the Feathers yet. I am currently using a Weishi razorle but have a 40's style superspeed and an super adjustable lying in waiting. I am trying to not jump to those and try them without perfecting technique with the one I started with. My face does seem to be reacting to my aftershave rituals though so I want to get those down too. If I only do the alum and a rinse and proraso I do see some dry spots on my face. I am using the cetaphil lotion because it is supposed to not clog pores.

 

[jramire2]

Not to quote myself, but;

Also, maybe I'm the only one here that had this happen, but I started w/an HD and got good results. Then lucked out and found a 40's SS locally. The SS seemed to work better for me, I think the HD was a bit too aggressive for my skin. I'm getting less ingrowns, red bumps and irritated skin after switching to the SS. Must be a milder razor or something.


~Joshua

I don't know how your razor compares to the HD I started with, but I saw a big difference in my skins health after switching to my 40's SS. With the HD I ALWAYS had clogged pore/red bump problems in SPECIFIC places on my face. No matter how careful I was, I always got them. My SS has greatly changed that. Might do the same for you.

~Joshua