After how many honing sessions one needs to lap the Naniwa 12K SS?

[KrstGor]

The reason I'm asking is I have the Naniwa 12K Super Stone on its way, but I did not yet decided what lapping medium I should get (if any).

So, given I only use ONE razor for shaving my own face and I don't hone other stuff or other people's stuff as some kind of hobby or business, I'm just wondering... If I'm gonna touch up my own razor on this stone but a few times a year, do I really "need" a lapping stone?

More precisely, after how many honing sessions (years of use?), would I absolutely have to have the Naniwa 12K stone lapped?

 

[jdp93]

My Nani 12k was not completely flat when I first got it, so I got a DMT lapping plate for it. I'm glad I did because I find that I need to lap my Nani after every few uses. I got my DMT on Amazon for around $60 IIRC.

 

[RayClem]

Nearly any hone you purchase will need to be lapped before use. There are a few instances when the job has already been done for you. You will need to lap the Naniwa when new.

Having a lapping plate is convenient. I use a Atoma 1200 grit diamond plate. Some people use a 400 grit plate. It works nicely for lapping and for raising a slurry on various hones. There are other brands of diamond plates available. I purchased one of the Naniwa lapping plates made from Silicon Carbide, but I much prefer the Atom; I never use the one from Naniwa.

It is not absolutely necessary to purchase a lapping plate. Some people use a piece of wet/dry Silicon Carbide sandpaper backed by a piece of polished granite or marble, or a plate of glass. Some people even use loose SiC abrasive on glass to get the job done. The glass will have to be replaced periodically, but it you are only honing for yourself, you might never have to replace it.

 

[stone and strop]

Wet/Dry sandpaper at 600 grit is the cheap way to go.
Flatten it when you get it and check it periodically. Flatten it when you need to.
Something I do is wet one side then flip it and use the other instead of just wetting and using one side.
Keeping both sides wet helps keep it flat.

 

[bluesman 7]

I find my Naniwa 12k to develop a 'skin' just sitting unused. I always refresh the surface before each use. Not always a full flattening lap, but at least a rub with a rub stone or another hone.

 

[global_dev]

Something I do is wet one side then flip it and use the other instead of just wetting and using one side.
Keeping both sides wet helps keep it flat.

is this a comment specifically for the naniwa super stone 12K?, I’ve never used that stone or series.

 

[stone and strop]

I do it for all my Synthetics.
Its something I have done for years with cutting boards as well. Constantly wetting only one side will cause more distortion IMO.

 

[global_dev]

Good food for thought... I used to dunk my splash and go’s, but lately only spraying one side but when i clean off the stone i am wetting all sides, i am getting both sides wet, but wasnt thinking about the concept you bring up.

 

[KrstGor]

Nearly any hone you purchase will need to be lapped before use. There are a few instances when the job has already been done for you. You will need to lap the Naniwa when new.

Having a lapping plate is convenient. I use a Atoma 1200 grit diamond plate. Some people use a 400 grit plate. It works nicely for lapping and for raising a slurry on various hones. There are other brands of diamond plates available. I purchased one of the Naniwa lapping plates made from Silicon Carbide, but I much prefer the Atom; I never use the one from Naniwa.

It is not absolutely necessary to purchase a lapping plate. Some people use a piece of wet/dry Silicon Carbide sandpaper backed by a piece of polished granite or marble, or a plate of glass. Some people even use loose SiC abrasive on glass to get the job done. The glass will have to be replaced periodically, but it you are only honing for yourself, you might never have to replace it.

Tnx!

As banal as it may sound - how will I ever know that a stone needs lapping?

I mean, we're talking about micro-level irregularities on the surface of the stone, right? I guess it's not smth. visible by the naked eye. Or am I totally wrong? Exactly how warped these stones get unless lapped b4 every use?

So, how would I know? Is there some special feeling or sound the honing motion will produce if the stone is not perfectly flat?

 

[Sinnbad11]

Usually the best way to tell if a stone is flat is to draw pencil gridlines across the surface of the stone. Run your lapping stone across the stone a couple times and if all the pencil marks are removed the stone is flat enough to hone with.

 

[stone and strop]

A straight edge and some light will show you quickly.
Hold up to the light and place straight edge on hone in length, width and diagonal directions.

 

[Sinnbad11]

A straight edge and some light will show you quickly.
Hold up to the light and place straight edge on hone in length, width and diagonal directions.

This is great to check flatness without a lapping plate.

 

[camoloc]

Tnx!

As banal as it may sound - how will I ever know that a stone needs lapping?

I mean, we're talking about micro-level irregularities on the surface of the stone, right? I guess it's not smth. visible by the naked eye. Or am I totally wrong? Exactly how warped these stones get unless lapped b4 every use?

So, how would I know? Is there some special feeling or sound the honing motion will produce if the stone is not perfectly flat?

it has been my experience that if its off even a little......you will feel as the blade travels down the hone. might be a slight dip......or pesky bump 3/4 slight off the edge center.

either way I know when something is off. quick touch lap and recheck pencil lines.

does it make a difference? to answer that you have to turn around and ask yourself how good do you want your blade???? then you will come to an answer.

this is my own newb perspective.

camo

 

[RayClem]

Tnx!

As banal as it may sound - how will I ever know that a stone needs lapping?

I mean, we're talking about micro-level irregularities on the surface of the stone, right? I guess it's not smth. visible by the naked eye. Or am I totally wrong? Exactly how warped these stones get unless lapped b4 every use?

So, how would I know? Is there some special feeling or sound the honing motion will produce if the stone is not perfectly flat?

When you hone, you should always watch the water flow across the stone as it is being pushed by the edge. If you are not getting a smooth flow, either the stone is not flat or the edge needs more work. By the time you get to the 12K stone, the edge should be in good shape. If not, you need to go back to a coarser stone.

 

[global_dev]

I could recently see a weird scratch pattern from the bevel edge to the apex edge, not exactly what you want to see when you looking for the straightest of bevel/apex.
Turned out my mid range was not flat