Advice Needed Please

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

To my Fellow B&B members I had a few questions that have popped up that I would appreciate your input on. I have recently begun my Safety Razor journey (I am two weeks in) and this is my current kit: (classic merkur, astro SP blades, Razorock Bruce, and Proraso Green SC). I shave every 2-3 days and am face-lathering atm.
My questions are as follows:

1) I know (and agree) that one shouldn't change any variables in the beginning while one is practicing his shaving skills but how long would you recommend that I continue to do so before I adjust something. I ask because I am not entirely happy with my lather. Several years ago when I tried my hand at straight shaving, I used a boar and Tabac soap (maybe 4x's in total) and if I am not misremembering it gave me more lather, in a shorter period of time that was creamier. I don't know if it's just that I still suck or if it is the fact that I am using a synthetic or a cream instead of a soap but it is not as good as i recall. How long before I know it's not just bad technique and that in fact it is one of those variables that is at fault? And Which variable would you alter first?

2) Is it possible to get a close shave with two passes only with a safety razor? MY shaves haven't been bad but they aren't as close as they were when I was using a cartridge. When I used to use Gillette proglide I would get a closer shave in two passes (but that usually came with razor bumps etc). I have been sticking with two passes for now because I don't want to excessively irritate my somewhat sensitive skin. But there is a little more green left than before and it is growing back quicker. Is this a normal experience for others? What would you advise I change to get a closer shave?

3) Which Soap do you believe provides the quickest and easiest lather for a beginner? I have only tried Tabac in the past.

Thanks in advance for your input. I am looking forward to your advice.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

4) Lastly, anyone familiar with the item in the attached photo? I got it from Egypt. It has a crystal-like texture (almost looks like salt) and i rub it on after I shave. I believe it is an astringent as it burns any nicks I get. Do you know what it is?

 

[Atlantic59]

1) There was a thread on lathering Prorasoo recently, here:

Need help with my Proraso Soaps.

Gentlemen, recently I received gifts of a tub each of Proraso Green and Red. Todate, I scrape a small dollop of soap into a salsa dip cup to whip lather. Yet, I am still finding pieces of soap remaining after shaving--I put these back in its parent tub. I also tried putting hot water on the...

www.badgerandblade.com

2) Two passes and then a touch-up pass is enough. Try a sharper blade, such as Nacet or 7 O'clock yellow or Feather. Your technique will get better as you practice, you will find your shave getting closer with time. You are right to stop before you get too much irritation.
3) If you like face lathering, try the La Toja shaving stick (Spain). It is great and lathers easily. Also, Palmolive stick (Germany), Speick stick (Germany), Wilkinson Sword stick, NOT the bowl (Germany), Arko stick (Turkey). Haslinger (Austria) is very, very good in the small pucks (60g)
4) Looks like alum (potassium alum), you can get a new one as a stick or a block.

 

[Cumberland Sausage]

If you prefer Tabac to Proraso then go with the former; I cant really see any harm in doing so. The "don't change things too soon" mantra is more of a general guide than a cast iron rule, and if something just isn't working then I would change it.
As for shave quality, two weeks in really isn't very long and your results will almost certainly continue to get better for a good while yet. Also, I did three pass shaves from the time I started DE shaving and didn't find this caused any problems, although I suppose my skin might be more leathery than yours. Give it a try and see what the results are like.
The stuff in the pot looks like alum to me, although it's hard to be sure.

 

[BigJ]

Welcome aboard! In answer to your questions:

1) How long before I know it's not just bad technique and that in fact it is one of those variables that is at fault? And Which variable would you alter first?

Since you don’t shave daily, I suggest you consider number of shaves rather than time. Personally, I would give each set-up at least 14 shaves before changing up. This is far from a rule. That’s just what I would do.

2) Is it possible to get a close shave with two passes only with a safety razor?

There are many variables here, especially differences in skin, beard, technique, etc., etc. So my shaves will differ from yours. That said, you can get good shaves with two passes. That’s what I do when I am in a rush and the result is better than 90+ percent of my colleagues!

3) Which Soap do you believe provides the quickest and easiest lather for a beginner? I have only tried Tabac in the past.

Tabac is a great performer, so that would be an excellent place to start. You might consider their shave stick as that is easier to use than the puck (which lathers great IME).

Stick with this and you will get the results you want!

 

[hydro-magic]

If it seems to you the soap is lacking, by all means change that. If that's the only variable you change you'll know within a week or so if the new soap is an improvement or not.

I can get a pretty close shave with 2 passes but usually takes me 3 to get a BBS shave. There's nothing wrong with doing 2 for now and avoiding irritation. Your skin will look better even with a little more stubble. Once you are getting 2 pass shaves without irritation you can try adding an ATG pass. Your shaves will eventually be as close as you were getting before but without the irritation. It just takes a little time to develop good technique.

The crystal looks like alum to me. I use it and it's a great tool for determining how your technique is developing. Whenever you get stinging from the alum, you know something in your shave could be better. When you can rub the alum on your face after your shave and get absolutely no tingling, you know you're doing it right.

 

[mumB_L_E]

Are you having any issues with irritation? It is possible you are leaving too much time between shaves. You may benefit from going 36 hours between shaves, alternating between shaving in the AM and PM. At this stage, I am comfortable shaving every 24 hours and prefer to shave in the evenings; but, as I was ironing out my technique, 36 hour growth seemed to be more comfortable to shave than 48 hour+ growth. If your shaves are causing irritation, 48 hours might be ideal as you want to give your skin time to recover.

To me, it seems as though your shave angle might be off. I fixed my technique using the same razor as you. I found the ideal angle by riding the cap of the razor (handle close to perpendicular to the face), and taking short strokes while steepening the angle (bringing handle closer to face) until it the blade started smoothly slicing through hair. I did this every time I shaved until achieving the proper angle became muscle memory.

How long before I know it's not just bad technique and that in fact it is one of those variables that is at fault? And Which variable would you alter first? If the above post does not help you with lathering Proraso, you should go back to Tabac as soon as possible. You should also search for the Marco Method. In your case, the order of variables I would change if you don't make progress would be: 1. Soap 2. Blade... distant 3/4 razor and brush. I concur with BigJ unless your shaves are causing you pain, in which case I would advise making an immediate change of ONE variable.

Is it possible to get a close shave with two passes only with a safety razor? Yes, especially with shorter growth. With that said, you do not want to introduce pressure to your shaving in order to limit yourself to two passes. Are you doing two passes WTG? You may benefit from introducing a XTG pass or two.

Which Soap do you believe provides the quickest and easiest lather for a beginner? This is different for everyone and involves a bit of luck. For you, this soap might be Tabac. In general, my official recommendation is Saponoficio Varesino lathered with the Marco Method.

The crystal is alum. For best results, leave it on your face for 30-60 seconds before thoroughly rinsing.

 

[Billy T.]

2) Is it possible to get a close shave with two passes only with a safety razor?
Yes, those 2 passes could only be ATG. Or WTG - ATG or XTG - ATG.

 

[Raven Koenes]

I have been getting excellent results doing a one pass wtg shave using the Gillette slide. I then pull remaining lather for touchup here and there like our grandfathers did. I get between a Close Comfortable Shave (CCS) to a Damn Fine Shave (DFS) doing that. From outside appearances you can't tell the difference between that and a BBS. I also find that a BBS, although longer lasting, there is not much of a difference in appearance between it and a DFS as the hours roll on. The more I do a one pass wtg shave the better I get. I've been doing the one pass for about a month now. I've started adding a three pass back in this Monday, and I'll do one again on Friday. Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday remains a one pass. The one pass has really helped my technique with the three pass shave as well. I found I used to over work my three pass shave covering every inch of skin. I found that there are areas that just don't need that much attention. The result is the shaves are better and quicker. Almost as quick as a one pass. I also find that a one pass is much better on your skin.

 

[emwolf]

4) Lastly, anyone familiar with the item in the attached photo? I got it from Egypt. It has a crystal-like texture (almost looks like salt) and i rub it on after I shave. I believe it is an astringent as it burns any nicks I get. Do you know what it is?

that would be Alum

 

[Jaybeez]

Plenty of good advise above. As for soap, I couldn't tell if you had a bias toward sticks, but I've been really liking offerings from some artisans like Talbot, Ariana and Evans and Declaration Grooming. Their lather is a cut above others I've used.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

WOW! So many really great and helpful responses in such a short window. I just wanted to send out a general thank you to you all. This forum truly is a wonder. I laugh when I think that so many people could bond over something like shaving.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

1) There was a thread on lathering Prorasoo recently, here:

Need help with my Proraso Soaps.

Gentlemen, recently I received gifts of a tub each of Proraso Green and Red. Todate, I scrape a small dollop of soap into a salsa dip cup to whip lather. Yet, I am still finding pieces of soap remaining after shaving--I put these back in its parent tub. I also tried putting hot water on the...

www.badgerandblade.com

2) Two passes and then a touch-up pass is enough. Try a sharper blade, such as Nacet or 7 O'clock yellow or Feather. Your technique will get better as you practice, you will find your shave getting closer with time. You are right to stop before you get too much irritation.
3) If you like face lathering, try the La Toja shaving stick (Spain). It is great and lathers easily. Also, Palmolive stick (Germany), Speick stick (Germany), Wilkinson Sword stick, NOT the bowl (Germany), Arko stick (Turkey). Haslinger (Austria) is very, very good in the small pucks (60g)
4) Looks like alum (potassium alum), you can get a new one as a stick or a block.

Thank you for being so helpful. I never considered a stick until you mentioned it. I am trying to learn to face-lather because it seems overall to be more convenient (in terms of less sink space occupied, more time conditioning/lathering hair, less cleanup). That said, if I still don't like it after a reasonable period of effort I will try bowl lathering again to compare.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

If you prefer Tabac to Proraso then go with the former; I cant really see any harm in doing so. The "don't change things too soon" mantra is more of a general guide than a cast iron rule, and if something just isn't working then I would change it.
As for shave quality, two weeks in really isn't very long and your results will almost certainly continue to get better for a good while yet. Also, I did three pass shaves from the time I started DE shaving and didn't find this caused any problems, although I suppose my skin might be more leathery than yours. Give it a try and see what the results are like.
The stuff in the pot looks like alum to me, although it's hard to be sure.

I think I will keep things as is for a while longer, since as you say two weeks isn't a lot of time. That said, I will add a third pass next time and see if I have more irritation than normal.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

Welcome aboard! In answer to your questions:

1) How long before I know it's not just bad technique and that in fact it is one of those variables that is at fault? And Which variable would you alter first?

Since you don’t shave daily, I suggest you consider number of shaves rather than time. Personally, I would give each set-up at least 14 shaves before changing up. This is far from a rule. That’s just what I would do.

2) Is it possible to get a close shave with two passes only with a safety razor?

There are many variables here, especially differences in skin, beard, technique, etc., etc. So my shaves will differ from yours. That said, you can get good shaves with two passes. That’s what I do when I am in a rush and the result is better than 90+ percent of my colleagues!

3) Which Soap do you believe provides the quickest and easiest lather for a beginner? I have only tried Tabac in the past.

Tabac is a great performer, so that would be an excellent place to start. You might consider their shave stick as that is easier to use than the puck (which lathers great IME).

Stick with this and you will get the results you want!

thanks this is exactly the kind of response that will help steer me. Thank for the 14 shaves estimate (I'm only on ~4-5 rn)

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

If it seems to you the soap is lacking, by all means change that. If that's the only variable you change you'll know within a week or so if the new soap is an improvement or not.

I can get a pretty close shave with 2 passes but usually takes me 3 to get a BBS shave. There's nothing wrong with doing 2 for now and avoiding irritation. Your skin will look better even with a little more stubble. Once you are getting 2 pass shaves without irritation you can try adding an ATG pass. Your shaves will eventually be as close as you were getting before but without the irritation. It just takes a little time to develop good technique.

The crystal looks like alum to me. I use it and it's a great tool for determining how your technique is developing. Whenever you get stinging from the alum, you know something in your shave could be better. When you can rub the alum on your face after your shave and get absolutely no tingling, you know you're doing it right.

Thanks.
IN regards the alum (thankfully I now know what it's called) I have found that to be the case. IT really seems to tighten and brighten my skin after as well. Good stuff.

As for the two pass I will keep trying and maybe add one more XTG but I am wary of ATG especially n the more sensitive area near your adam's apple.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

Are you having any issues with irritation? It is possible you are leaving too much time between shaves. You may benefit from going 36 hours between shaves, alternating between shaving in the AM and PM. At this stage, I am comfortable shaving every 24 hours and prefer to shave in the evenings; but, as I was ironing out my technique, 36 hour growth seemed to be more comfortable to shave than 48 hour+ growth. If your shaves are causing irritation, 48 hours might be ideal as you want to give your skin time to recover.

To me, it seems as though your shave angle might be off. I fixed my technique using the same razor as you. I found the ideal angle by riding the cap of the razor (handle close to perpendicular to the face), and taking short strokes while steepening the angle (bringing handle closer to face) until it the blade started smoothly slicing through hair. I did this every time I shaved until achieving the proper angle became muscle memory.

How long before I know it's not just bad technique and that in fact it is one of those variables that is at fault? And Which variable would you alter first? If the above post does not help you with lathering Proraso, you should go back to Tabac as soon as possible. You should also search for the Marco Method. In your case, the order of variables I would change if you don't make progress would be: 1. Soap 2. Blade... distant 3/4 razor and brush. I concur with BigJ unless your shaves are causing you pain, in which case I would advise making an immediate change of ONE variable.

Is it possible to get a close shave with two passes only with a safety razor? Yes, especially with shorter growth. With that said, you do not want to introduce pressure to your shaving in order to limit yourself to two passes. Are you doing two passes WTG? You may benefit from introducing a XTG pass or two.

Which Soap do you believe provides the quickest and easiest lather for a beginner? This is different for everyone and involves a bit of luck. For you, this soap might be Tabac. In general, my official recommendation is Saponoficio Varesino lathered with the Marco Method.

The crystal is alum. For best results, leave it on your face for 30-60 seconds before thoroughly rinsing.

Interesting take on the time for shaving. I was under the impression that giving your hair enough time to grow back (i.e. more than 24 hours) would make shaving easier because the blade would have more to work on, so to speak. Either way, I find it unnecessary and inconvenient to shave daily (especially as it takes me quite a while to do so as I sport a Van Dyke Goatee that I must line up as well).
SO far I['ve been doing on WTg and one XTG. I think I will add another XTG to see how it goes.

Thanks for the soap rec.

 

[hydro-magic]

As for the two pass I will keep trying and maybe add one more XTG but I am wary of ATG especially n the more sensitive area near your adam's apple.

The adam's apple can be tricky. I swallow and hold it to move my adam's apple up out of the way, then stretch my skin a bit and shave that spot. I don't work too hard at it though. A couple swipes and I call it good because I've got a swirl right there that makes it impossible to avoid going ATG somewhere.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

I have been getting excellent results doing a one pass wtg shave using the Gillette slide. I then pull remaining lather for touchup here and there like our grandfathers did. I get between a Close Comfortable Shave (CCS) to a Damn Fine Shave (DFS) doing that. From outside appearances you can't tell the difference between that and a BBS. I also find that a BBS, although longer lasting, there is not much of a difference in appearance between it and a DFS as the hours roll on. The more I do a one pass wtg shave the better I get. I've been doing the one pass for about a month now. I've started adding a three pass back in this Monday, and I'll do one again on Friday. Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday remains a one pass. The one pass has really helped my technique with the three pass shave as well. I found I used to over work my three pass shave covering every inch of skin. I found that there are areas that just don't need that much attention. The result is the shaves are better and quicker. Almost as quick as a one pass. I also find that a one pass is much better on your skin.

Interesting. You're in the minority with on pass but that speaks to great technique. I can see why doing it once only would hone your skills.

 

[NEWBY WAN KENOBI]

ONE LAST THING Fellas:

The Marco method seems to be great for soap but how well does it translate for cream?

Also, for those who face-lather do you switch hands when you go to the opposite side of your face. I have found it a bit more work to whip up a good lather on my nondominant side (Left cheek) with my right hand. I suspect that this may be common.