I recently had three aristocrats replated and was told that the no 16 could not be taken apart, so it was replated assembled. I noticed that the area between the handle and knob was not plated. The answer I received was it needed to have the doors open during the plating thus consealing that area. This does not seem right to me, what do you all think? I've enclosed a photo farthest to the left. Thanks.
Advice needed on replate.
- Thread starter ttalkington
- Start date
R
romsitsa
British ttos are harder to disassemble then US ones, maybe they didn't want to fiddle around with reattaching the base plate.
At least I think British ones can't be disassembled without loosening the base plate-handle connection.
Another possibility could have been that there was some grease left in the handle and plating won't stick to uncleaned metal (but I don't think it wasn't cleaned).
A partial, maybe better, solution could have been to pop the doors and plate them seperatly, while the razor is the closed position.
Replating looks nice btw. how damaged was the original plating?
Adam
At least I think British ones can't be disassembled without loosening the base plate-handle connection.
Another possibility could have been that there was some grease left in the handle and plating won't stick to uncleaned metal (but I don't think it wasn't cleaned).
A partial, maybe better, solution could have been to pop the doors and plate them seperatly, while the razor is the closed position.
Replating looks nice btw. how damaged was the original plating?
Adam
I had an Aristocrat no 16 replated a few years ago by Dave, at Restored razors, then based in the UK and now in New Zealand. He posts on this forum as onotoman, although I haven't seen anything from him from a while. I don't know exactly how he did the job, but the finish was perfect, with no gaps at all.
Sounds strange to me, but I'm no expert.
Did you ask or assume the disassembly?
- Thread starter
- #6
I asked, the handle and base plate are crimped together. The only way to disassemble would be to break the crimp.
- Thread starter
- #7
It was originally gold, the original plating was maybe 75%.
- Thread starter
- #9
Thanks.
The Re-plate does look Very Nice.
The OCs have screws up in the handle that allows you to take them apart
with SB #15 having a solid bottom I'm not sure how it would come apart.
I'm sure someone with knowledge in this area will post a reason that it was not taken apart.
The OCs have screws up in the handle that allows you to take them apart
with SB #15 having a solid bottom I'm not sure how it would come apart.
I'm sure someone with knowledge in this area will post a reason that it was not taken apart.
R
romsitsa
I tried to recrimp some HD rockets and it is a real pain, to be honest I'd also pass on disassembling a fully functioning Aristocrat.
Thinking about it more, without taking it apart some parts will remain unplated or it would need two coats and the finish could be uneven...
Adam
Thinking about it more, without taking it apart some parts will remain unplated or it would need two coats and the finish could be uneven...
Adam
Beyond that, those are some fine looking instruments........
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks, lolOn second thought, that razor looks awful. Please allow me to spare you the embarrassment of owning it by taking it off your hands. I know just what to do with a fine lookin- I mean a silly looking razor like that
My impression is that these were all originally plated while assembled. So unless you are doing something like two tone disassembling isn't required. I remember reading something from Chris (razorplate) and he talks about the care of making sure everything is super clean. He actually uses special chemicals to clean the metal (you just can't wipe it with a paper towel) and that the razor needs to be rotated during the process to assure total and even plating.
The lack of plating, to me, seems to be due to the re-platers error. I have several British razors that were re-plated and only one was disassembled and they are all perfect.
Also as already pointed out the gold strip is a very classy touch.
The lack of plating, to me, seems to be due to the re-platers error. I have several British razors that were re-plated and only one was disassembled and they are all perfect.
Also as already pointed out the gold strip is a very classy touch.
That part of the razor should have been plated!
On this model of razor, I do not recommend disassembly - except in the case of necessary repairs.
Several members have mentioned that disassembly of this model requires altering the crimped connection that attaches the razor head to the handle. That is correct! If this razor is disassembled, it is difficult to get this connection re-crimped to a point that the stability is as good as before disassembly. This is best left alone!
When plating this model of razor, it must be done with an assembled razor.
The key is to plate the razor: part of the time with doors open - and - part of the time with the doors closed. Plating with the doors closed will allow plating to deposit in this area.
Failure to perform part of the plating process with doors closed will result in what is seen with this pictured razor. This plating fault is easily avoidable if the proper plating algorithm is followed.
On this model of razor, I do not recommend disassembly - except in the case of necessary repairs.
Several members have mentioned that disassembly of this model requires altering the crimped connection that attaches the razor head to the handle. That is correct! If this razor is disassembled, it is difficult to get this connection re-crimped to a point that the stability is as good as before disassembly. This is best left alone!
When plating this model of razor, it must be done with an assembled razor.
The key is to plate the razor: part of the time with doors open - and - part of the time with the doors closed. Plating with the doors closed will allow plating to deposit in this area.
Failure to perform part of the plating process with doors closed will result in what is seen with this pictured razor. This plating fault is easily avoidable if the proper plating algorithm is followed.
- Thread starter
- #17
Would you suggest I talk this over with the replater?
I have the impression they don't take TTO razors apart when being re-plated.
Lovely! (Well worth it despite the replating issues IMO!)
Hi All,
TTO razors need to be plated while in the open position to get the plating inside the head etc. With Slims, UK Aristocrats, Rockets and Later Fatboys that cannot be easily taken apart (later Fatboys have the same crimped washer as Slims rather than the earlier screw-off type) this means that even though Nickel has good 'throw' - in other words it flows well into enclosed spaces (unlike Chrome), it still means that areas such as the section shown above on the later Aristocrat (and rockets etc)and the inside end of handles of Fatboys and Slims etc. don't get fully plated as they are covered or inaccessible during the tank plating process.
I have tried in the past to remove the razor from the tank, close it part way through plating (to expose previously covered areas) and then continue the plating, but this often causes uneven plating and various other issues.
So, what I tend do is either disassemble the razor where possible, or if not, I brush plate the uncovered areas after tank plating (laborious but it makes for a much better result). That's just the way I do it though.
The later Aristocrats and Rockets are pretty straightforward to take apart and re-assemble (I posted an article with photos a while ago), like most tasks, the correct tools make life easier - I made a few for the task. Earlier Aristocrats have a screw in the base of the handle that needs a special (home-made) tool to remove and refit too, but as these don't have the rocket type mechanism, they plate well fully assembled.
Hope this helps.
Dave
TTO razors need to be plated while in the open position to get the plating inside the head etc. With Slims, UK Aristocrats, Rockets and Later Fatboys that cannot be easily taken apart (later Fatboys have the same crimped washer as Slims rather than the earlier screw-off type) this means that even though Nickel has good 'throw' - in other words it flows well into enclosed spaces (unlike Chrome), it still means that areas such as the section shown above on the later Aristocrat (and rockets etc)and the inside end of handles of Fatboys and Slims etc. don't get fully plated as they are covered or inaccessible during the tank plating process.
I have tried in the past to remove the razor from the tank, close it part way through plating (to expose previously covered areas) and then continue the plating, but this often causes uneven plating and various other issues.
So, what I tend do is either disassemble the razor where possible, or if not, I brush plate the uncovered areas after tank plating (laborious but it makes for a much better result). That's just the way I do it though.
The later Aristocrats and Rockets are pretty straightforward to take apart and re-assemble (I posted an article with photos a while ago), like most tasks, the correct tools make life easier - I made a few for the task. Earlier Aristocrats have a screw in the base of the handle that needs a special (home-made) tool to remove and refit too, but as these don't have the rocket type mechanism, they plate well fully assembled.
Hope this helps.
Dave
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